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Alrighty folks. I'm going to be honest and admit that everything I learned in my teens about motorcycle service I forgot in my early 20s. I recently got a stage 1 dynojet kit and am looking to install it on my 07 1300C. Anyone have any tips? The instructions that came with the kit are horrendous, and the dynojet website is worse. Any tips, advice, or anyone who lives in Delaware that wants to install it for a case a beer are welcome. :beer:
 

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Best advice is to take the Dynojunk kit back and get your money back.....Then go drop 2 bucks on a package of shims at Radio Shack...Then just follow the carb tuning sticky that Scar posted......Worked for me!!!!!
 

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Alrighty folks. I'm going to be honest and admit that everything I learned in my teens about motorcycle service I forgot in my early 20s. I recently got a stage 1 dynojet kit and am looking to install it on my 07 1300C. Anyone have any tips? The instructions that came with the kit are horrendous, and the dynojet website is worse. Any tips, advice, or anyone who lives in Delaware that wants to install it for a case a beer are welcome. :beer:
I run DJ innards w/ excellent results but unless you know your way around a carb you might be biting off more than you can chew. ;) Many in the know prefer FP jetting and then you can always shim the stock needle too and add a bigger main if it's a heavy breather. Good luck :)

Biddy
 

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re

+1 on the Scar mod. The stock needle is the best needle for this motorcycle. With shims, and a/f screw adjustments you can get the best
results.:choppersm
 

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I just did the stage one Dynojet this past weekend. I have had no problems. I used a geocities link for the step by step instructions:

http://www.geocities.com/nc_brew/VTX1300TIPS.htm

Click on the Rejetting link (there are two)

In combination with the dynojet instructions and little to no carb experience, this was a easier job that I thought it would be. You don't even need to remove the carb, just loosen it from the throttle body.

With V&H Bigshots, this bike has improved throttle response in all rev ranges and much more power at cruising speeds.
 

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I was halfway into installing the Dynojet Stage 1 kit on Friday (by suggestion of the dealer) when I came across all the people on this forum who claim that the kit is crap. So, I went back to work on Saturday removing the new needle and spring I had already installed. I went in and did the Scar mod and the bike runs incredible! I can't be more happy and now I can return the $65 jet kit! :)
 

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I just did the stage one Dynojet this past weekend. I have had no problems. I used a geocities link for the step by step instructions:

http://www.geocities.com/nc_brew/VTX1300TIPS.htm

Click on the Rejetting link (there are two)

In combination with the dynojet instructions and little to no carb experience, this was a easier job that I thought it would be. You don't even need to remove the carb, just loosen it from the throttle body.

With V&H Bigshots, this bike has improved throttle response in all rev ranges and much more power at cruising speeds.
Good job, it can be done! ;)

Biddy
 

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I installed the DJ1 kit before I knew about the SCAR method.
This is what worked for me with Cobra Slashdowns and stock air box w/KN filter.
195 jet.
4th ring on needle( you have to cut the tit on the spring seat down to allow free movement of the needle)
3 turns out on the AF.
I run regular gas only.
Haven't used the choke since, bike runs like a bat outta hello bottom to top.
Also do the PAIR removal while your in there.
 

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I installed the DJ1 kit before I knew about the SCAR method.
This is what worked for me with Cobra Slashdowns and stock air box w/KN filter.
195 jet.
4th ring on needle( you have to cut the tit on the spring seat down to allow free movement of the needle)
3 turns out on the AF.
I run regular gas only.
Haven't used the choke since, bike runs like a bat outta hello bottom to top.
Also do the PAIR removal while your in there.
yup...I've been running The DJ kit as well through many stages of pipe/air box changes. I have had no problems at all tuning with the DJ kit.

When I had your exact setup, I used the 200 main and 2-2.5 turns on the fueal screw.

Now I have the ultraflow and I just bumped up the main to a DJ210 the only thing I notice now, is that I get some surging when there is a cold dry crosswind on the freeway. I plan on changing the DJ210 to a FP210 or 215 this weekend.
 

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Good job, it can be done! ;)

Biddy
Biddy, I thought I got this thing pegged the first time, but yet with temps in the 40's F I just got a pop on decel (just once when cold) and a delay on excel a few times.

I'm hoping the delay is just a idle adjustment, but the popping must be an A/F screw adjustment. . . but either way I'm suddenly a tad bit disappointed. The bike ran great in 70 plus temps. I't still starts without choke (hates the choke), and still has way more power on crusing throttle. Just at take off and cold!

Any suggetions? (other than the scar?)

4th clip on the needle or another 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the A/F screw?


:195 jet, Vance and Heinz Big Shots, stock intake, dynojet stage one:
 

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Biddy, I thought I got this thing pegged the first time, but yet with temps in the 40's F I just got a pop on decel (just once when cold) and a delay on excel a few times.

I'm hoping the delay is just a idle adjustment, but the popping must be an A/F screw adjustment. . . but either way I'm suddenly a tad bit disappointed. The bike ran great in 70 plus temps. I't still starts without choke (hates the choke), and still has way more power on crusing throttle. Just at take off and cold!

Any suggetions? (other than the scar?)

4th clip on the needle or another 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the A/F screw?


:195 jet, Vance and Heinz Big Shots, stock intake, dynojet stage one:
If she runs good at WOT and you're currently at the 3rd clip, you can also put a shim under the clip that would raise the needle roughly 1/2 the distance of a full clip change. It sounds like you're close now so that may help, if not try the 4th clip. Then tweak it in w/ the A/F screw. ;)

Biddy
 

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If she runs good at WOT and you're currently at the 3rd clip, you can also put a shim under the clip that would raise the needle roughly 1/2 the distance of a full clip change. It sounds like you're close now so that may help, if not try the 4th clip. Then tweak it in w/ the A/F screw. ;)

Biddy
I'll give it a try. What size shim?

Thanks for the advice.:hmm2: I was a bit puzzled today. Cold wheather and all, it just wasn't the same as a few days ago.
 

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I'll give it a try. What size shim?

Thanks for the advice.:hmm2: I was a bit puzzled today. Cold wheather and all, it just wasn't the same as a few days ago.
Cold air will "lean" it out some as it's a denser charge than warm air. I use both .012 & 0.20 shims when tuning but in your case I'd try the .020 shim. You may have to trim down the tit under the spring of the white plastic needle retainer or barely grind down the top of the needle to make sure the needle has some free movement after it's installed in the slide. ;)

Biddy
 

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Cold air will "lean" it out some as it's a denser charge than warm air. I use both .012 & 0.20 shims when tuning but in your case I'd try the .020 shim. You may have to trim down the tit under the spring of the white plastic needle retainer or barely grind down the top of the needle to make sure the needle has some free movement after it's installed in the slide. ;)

Biddy
OK, so here is the deal, I went to Radio Shack to get .012 & .020 shims, and all they had was a "bag o' washers" (their terms, not mine). So I dropped the 2 bucks on them but I have no idea which one would serve my needs without the use of a micrometer. The bag of washers are simply labeled with #s. #2, #3, #4, etc. . . no doubt according to size.

Which one should I start with out of the bag o' washers?:confused:

BTW . . the bike ran awsome today, once it was hot. I took about 8 miles of riding before there was no hesitation at take off . . . no pops today, but it was in the 70's and humid.

Thanks for any help guys,

Tim:hmm2:
 

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OK, so here is the deal, I went to Radio Shack to get .012 & .020 shims, and all they had was a "bag o' washers" (their terms, not mine). So I dropped the 2 bucks on them but I have no idea which one would serve my needs without the use of a micrometer. The bag of washers are simply labeled with #s. #2, #3, #4, etc. . . no doubt according to size.

Which one should I start with out of the bag o' washers?:confused:


Tim:hmm2:
In the bag 20 each: #2, #4, #6, #8, #10 Use the #4 washer (second from the smallest).
 
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