[dizzyka]

i don't know if anyone else has excperianced this but i am very disapointed in EBC... first i only had these pads on the bike for a year less than 1000 miles. and last week i heard a noise from my rear break so i stoped using it and put the bike away... last night i took the caliber off and pads out this is what my outer pad looks like.
View attachment 24214 View attachment 24215 View attachment 24216

and then 3 hours of reserfacing the rotor... i guess it is back to OEM for me...

EBC does not even give a number to call or allow you to attach a picture to a email .... verry disapointed...:nope::nope::nope:

 

[knightrook]

did you buy organic, semi metallic or sintered pads? if organic, the pad life wont be as long. also, if only one pad was worn down that bad and the other wasnt...its not the pads that were/are the problem. sticking or stuck caliper can cause the pad on one side to wear out prematurely causing rotor damage.

 

[dizzyka]

did you buy organic, semi metallic or sintered pads? if organic, the pad life wont be as long. also, if only one pad was worn down that bad and the other wasnt...its not the pads that were/are the problem. sticking or stuck caliper can cause the pad on one side to wear out prematurely causing rotor damage.

they were the sintered. and yes it was just the outside one that was the issue but there was no pad to be found ... it came off the backing plate... the caliper moves freely .... i think the pad just got a little hot and came off the plate... as i had everything fine one day no noise and the next i had a noise and no pad on that side.

thanks

 

[battles06]

Knightrook is right about the stuck caliper. What does the other pad look like? If it doesn't look like that, then the caliper is stuck. You need to grease the caliper bolts and pad pin. The reason I say that is because I have EBC pads with about 2000 on them and I don't have that problem with either front or rear.

I have organic pads. Sintered are suppose to last longer than organic but they are suppose to eat up the rotor. You said you resurfaced the rotor. That sounds like it wasn't really in that bad of shape.

 

[knightrook]

i dont like sintered on these bikes anyway...just personal preference i guess. sintered pads are for extremely high heat...and with the rotors we have, its basically metal on metal. i cant stand the metal "brushing" sound...along with the risk of the pads causing excessive wear to the rotors. i would much rather buy new pads than have to replace a rotor.

hope you get it straightened out and find some sort of satisfaction. who knows...you could have also just been stuck with a "sub-par" brake pad too...

 

[dizzyka]

i dont like sintered on these bikes anyway...just personal preference i guess. sintered pads are for extremely high heat...and with the rotors we have, its basically metal on metal. i cant stand the metal "brushing" sound...along with the risk of the pads causing excessive wear to the rotors. i would much rather buy new pads than have to replace a rotor.

hope you get it straightened out and find some sort of satisfaction. who knows...you could have also just been stuck with a "sub-par" brake pad too...

yep thats what i'm thinking is the one in a million made on fri at 4:45pm pad...

i'm going to replace them with honda pads and regrease the caliber and hope all goes good. thanks

 

[Marty W]

Wow it looks like that was really hot to bubble like that. I think that they were stuck as well. Did you notice a drop in MPG's?
I run EBC HH and have never had a problem, I use my rear brakes a lot while I split lanes in heavy traffic and my brakes encounter high heat but have never looked like that.

 

[jacksvtx]

I had this issue with my wing recently. They were OEM pads.The one pad didn't fall off, but it was worn down to the metal backing because of dragging brakes. It's not the pads. If the calipers move freely, it might be the master cylinder or the brake line. I'm in the process of replacing my brake lines with stainless steel since I've eliminated the master and the calipers from the equation.

 

[wanderingbear]

If it happened in under 1,000 miles it was not the pads. I have some kevalr pads sitting here but I don't think they will work on a 1300.

 

[Donut]

Is the piston (sticking) and not retracting.
Only $7- $10 bucks for piston seals.

 

[wanderingbear]

Any tips on how to R&R the seals, that I've never done before. Uh and I hope I don't, it's time to do the brakes on the F-150 though. Might as well do them all around while I'm doing one. No noise just preventative maintenance since it hauls the 5th wheel and bike.

 

[BigJon]

i dont like sintered on these bikes anyway...just personal preference i guess. sintered pads are for extremely high heat...and with the rotors we have, its basically metal on metal. i cant stand the metal "brushing" sound...along with the risk of the pads causing excessive wear to the rotors. i would much rather buy new pads than have to replace a rotor. Me either. They're a racing application. I doubt I'll ever get the rotors hot enough for sintered pads.

hope you get it straightened out and find some sort of satisfaction. who knows...you could have also just been stuck with a "sub-par" brake pad too...

Any tips on how to R&R the seals, that I've never done before. Uh and I hope I don't, it's time to do the brakes on the F-150 though. Might as well do them all around while I'm doing one. No noise just preventative maintenance since it hauls the 5th wheel and bike.

The seals should be OK. Over time, the lubricant on the seals/pistons dries out or is scraped off. Re-lubing them usually takes care of the problem. Remove the caliper from the rotor. Remove the pads and place a folded shop towel or wood block between the caliper and the pistons. GENTLY press on the pedal/lever to SLOWLY push the pistons out about an inch. You don't want the pistons to pop out. Clean the pistons, and around the seals, then apply some silicone grease to them. Don't use anything to clean them that would scratch them! A little brake cleaner and a clean cloth. Push them both back in at the same time. Opening the bleeder valve with your bleeding setup attached will make pushing them back in easy. Now, pump them back out and apply a little brake fluid to the pistons, then push them back in.
I replaced the seals on the rear and re-lubed the front about 6 months ago. They're all still working like new. I think I wasted my time and money replacing the seals.