[Sagebrush]

A couple of the 12mm exhaust nuts that hold the pipes to the heads are hard to reach on my 1300R. What kind of wrench or tool do you use to get them out?

 

[ibified]

use a crowfoot wrench and be sure to replace the crush gaskets and torque them properly. I believe torque spec is 14 ft/lbs. check your manual to be sure.

 

[Charlie D]

they are 8mm with flange so should be around 22 ft lbs
that is acording to a chart I found for standard torque values

 

[coley]

I used a socket, extention, and a universal joint.

 

[Retro Rich]

12MM crowsfoot socket extension or wrench is the easiest way to get in there (you can usually get one at Sears for a couple bucks); re-torque to 14 ft. lbs. and use new exhaust crush gaskets. Re-torque after the first 100 miles or so after pipe removal/re-install.

If you're putting new pipes on, make sure that you wipe them down clean before you start the bike for the first time. Any fingerprints or grease smudges can bake right into the chrome the first time they're heated up. I waxed/polished mine before I installed as well, just because it was easier with them off the bike.

 

[syhman]

According to my 2005 manual the exhaust nuts torque value is 17 lbf-ft. not 14.

 

[Retro Rich]

Ok, good find Shyman and thanks for noting. :redface: I remember reading 14 somewhere in the past, that's what I did on mine and haven't had a problem. I haven't pulled out my service manual in a while obviously.

 

[Green Ghost]

Nuts

I just took the rear master cyc res. from it's mounting point and laid it to the side leaving it hooked to the line. Then removed the bottom front head bolt. Make sure to use an Anti seize coating on the nuts when replacing. I also when with 14 ft. lbs. and have had no problems with the Big Three's. But if the book says 17ft.lbs. I'd go with that number if the studs are still in good shape. lol

 

[Sagebrush]

Thanks guys for some very helpful information. This is a great site!

 

[DillDawg]

Keep in mind that torque setting on your wrench is not valid when using an extension like a crows foot.

A straight on extension is fine, but not an offet like a Crows Foot. Here is a calculator:
http://www.norbar.com/torquewrenchextensioncalculator.php
Manual states 17 ft/lbs - but I would go with 14 for starters. You can always go tighter, but once you muck up an exhaust stud - it ain't no picnic.
Be sure to alternate in several steps as you would a wheel (Top front, bottom rear, bottom front, top rear). You want to bring it in nice and even.

 

[coley]

I wouldn't worry about the torque values too much. Just don't get greedy when tightening and you shouldn't have a problem. I would also throw the acorn nuts in the garbage and replace them with stainless steel metric nuts and lockwashers. I've heard that some of the aftermarket flanges are thinner and the accorn nuts will bottom out.

After a little riding, check and make sure they're tight again.

 

[syhman]

I wouldn't worry about the torque values too much. Just don't get greedy when tightening and you shouldn't have a problem. I would also throw the acorn nuts in the garbage and replace them with stainless steel metric nuts and lockwashers. I've heard that some of the aftermarket flanges are thinner and the accorn nuts will bottom out.

After a little riding, check and make sure they're tight again.

+1 happened to me . Honda measures the length of the bolt remaining out of the head. trash the acorns