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Discussion Starter #1
After replacing my front tire and following Barrass Choppers method of making sure the wheel is centered in the forks (to keep the left brake from dragging), my brakes were pretty quiet. After a couple thousand miles of traveling 2 up and pulling the Bushtec, my passenger said innocently, "man, those bugs are loud". I never thought about it much but when I started thinking about what she was talking about I noticed what she meant.

Having lived in the south, those darn Cicadas are loud as heck. I realized that was the sound she was speaking of. Since I was coming down from 12000' in elevation on corners only found in the mountains, the sounds were happening as I was braking. And braking a lot so it was almost a constant noise. I guess I didn't really give it much attention.

I know my axle was in right and I wasn't experiencing much noise until now. I decided that it was time to go ahead and just replace the pads after 16,500 miles on them and the last 4k or so was pretty hard on them because of the change in driving conditions with weight and towing.

After installing all new pads (yes I visually noticed I was due in the end), that darn sound was very loud at any speed above 25 or so. All the time now, with no change while braking or not. The brakes were all rubbing when freewheeling the tire but that's to be expected a little as the pads break in. BUT that Cicada sound was definitely not normal.

Onto the forums I go. So many posts and threads about rubbing and noisy brakes. The common answers are 1) normal to some degree on the VTX, 2) get the axle centered since it's paramount for the left front brakes to function as designed or 3) fork needs adjusting.

All those were not an issue for mine. I did notice that on the very inner edge of the rotors there was new wear that wasn't there before so I focused on this characteristic.

I read in a few different threads about "beveling the edges" of the pads. That's new for me to read. I took off the pads again and did just that. I figured what the heck.

With my bench grinder I just took off the sharp edges all around all the pads. Not much but enough so that they weren't sharp any more. Installed everything then took it for a ride. Whoa baby!! Quieter than EVER been before as they were completely silent. What a new riding experience. I am so pleased.

So what I was seeing was the inner outside pad was apparantly rubbing the rotor more than ever, and maybe in a location not grabbing before. What I deduced was that "sharp" edge of the pad was touching the rotor almost at the very outside edge of the most inner holes in the rotor ring (toward the axle). As it would spin in the brakes, that sharp edge was contacting that unworn part of the rotor and causing that cicada sound. Hopefully you know what noise I speak of. I mean it sounded like one to the letter!!

I hope someone can get something out of this. I will always bevel the edges of any pad I install from now on. The methods I read were to sand the edges down or to file the edges down. That would no doubt work great too. Just take off the sharp edge all around all the pads in some way. Make sure they are clean though before you place them back on the bike. Brake cleaner works wonders.

Mike
 

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well, i don't know if you have helped me yet, but i am going to try that. i have that same annoying sound. the sad part is that i have gotten used to it. i will give it a try and post some results on here.
 

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Good advise. I'll keep this in mind this winter when I do all my big maintenece jobs. Only have a little ove 27000 miles on this bike and the stock pads should be good for a while longer but I might go ahead and bevel the edges of the old ones and see how that turns out. What's the worst that could happen? Maybe have to install new pads.
 

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I have this same issue. When I had new tires put on a few weeks ago, the dude at the shop said you know your front brake is rubbing? I was like no shit like I can't hear that. He said nothing was off and he had no idea why, thanks for the help buddy.. Hopefully what you say will solve my problem. Any chance of getting of picture of what you are talking about, since for some reason I am brain farting and can't picture it
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sure. I took the best pad of all the 6 originals and just beveled this one for an example. No, the others were not this good. 3 were in fact about gone. This was a quick job...about a minute or so so it's not to the quality I would like but for an example it will suffice.





I thought of something else I did different at the same time I did the beveling. I decided to remove the calipers off the rotor to remove the pads this time. (Just to look things over well before putting the pads back in). I pressed back in all the pistons so they were flush with the caliper. They all went in by hand (a bit of pressure but still, by hand). This ensured they were all flush and the same after putting it all back together and applying the brakes to set the pads. This may not have made a bit of difference but it was worth the extra couple of minutes.

If you do this yourself, get some fluid out of the reservoir first (both front and rear). I have a pneumatic bleeder (exactly like the one that's pictured in the service manual) so its a piece of cake for me.

With the right tools, a complete brake job including flushing/bleeding the entire system should take no more than an hour.

One more thing, the pad pictured above is an OEM pad. I replaced all around with EBC FA261HH pads. Same part for all three sets. The stock has 4 pads per pad and the EBC's have two instead (2 big pads versus 4 little). The EBC's are easier to fine down the edge as the two pads aren't so close together like the stock 4 are. Just FYI for your viewing pleasure.
 

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I am glad I found this thread...I put 150 miles on my bike today and other than the rear tire giving me hell, the brake noise was driving me nuts!!! I was going to post a Q/A thread to see if there was a fix for it...NOW I know, I will be doing this tomorrow afternoon when I get back from another 200 mile ride. I plan on putting a TON of miles on my bike and need comfort to extend to the ENTIRE bike...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I hope you get the same result I did. Just make sure everything else is correct too. Like the axle centered for the left pad scrape first. Post up your results.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well guys, in the interest of 100% honesty, the noise is back. Not nearly as bad but still back.

I'm beginning to believe its the pads. I've read that OEM pads are preferred by lots over any other for replacement. I've loved and use nothing but EBC stuff on my vehicles for years so I just assumed EBC (especially for the increased price) would be the way to go...for me.

My rears aren't making any noise...at least what I can('t) hear over the X' muscle.

So what I will do is grab 2 sets of OEM pads and swap out the fronts. I'll then keep the EBC's removed for extra rears.

I'll post up the results.
 

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Okay, I have the same sound but only on the rear brake. I replaced them about two years ago so they have about maybe 6,000 miles on them but just noticed the noise a month ago. The front brakes are original, 30,000 miles and still in good shape and no noise. So my question is other than the sharp edges, is it a safety matter. Will it tear up the disc? the disc feel the same as it always has, no excessive wear. Or is it just an issue of if I'm willing to put up with the noise?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I say it's a preference. I see no harm.

I put OEM pads on the front. Just finished a 4 day, 900 mile trip with the trailer in tow. I'm gonna stick with OEM pads from now on.

I'm starting to really learn that you can not go wrong sticking with EOM parts for all maintenance needs. I've wasted enough money going "performance" after market.

I still would like to know why all 3 sets of brake pads on the 1800 are different part numbers from Honda when EBC uses the same part all around.

That should have told me something.
 

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Did you grease and clean the slider pins on the caliper assembly. These must move freely to properly recenter the pads each time they are used. It also would be a good idea to take the caliper pistons out and clean up any corrosion so they can move freely.


Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
 

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I have the secada haunting as well. I always look up when I hit my brakes. I ordered new ones so I hope they will fix it
 

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Granted it's an older thread - I always insist pads are tapered - mainly on the leading edge.
Bench beltsander is the best tool.

The Poster made a couple mistakes -

pushing back w/o first pushing out some to clean the pistons that have been exposed over a very long time in road grime.

FOr some reason - it's not getting through how important this is.

The other mistake -
Pushing back - and forcing old crap fluid that has the worst of debris - back up into master cylinder.

Always break the bleeder loose - fitted tight with slip on poly tubing - now pushing back - the old crap is captured in jar.

Now evac out the master - and bleed system clean.

If white paper towel comes up black wiping out the bottom of master - imaging the garbage at the calipers.
 
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