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GreatLakesRoadRiders.org
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Discussion Starter #1
This seemed to start after I re-mounted my rim (replaced the front tire) last season. I followed the steps from Bare's VTX page as far as keeping the pinch bolts loose and slamming the front brake a few times (and even bumping tire into a curb) to supposedly set things into their proper position. His page says that LEFT side dragging is common when not aligned properly, but that the right side is not adjustable. Any idea why the RIGHT side would be dragging and what I could do to fix it? I can't ride the bike now because the pads are toast, and I don't want to put new ones on until I figure out how to get the problem corrected. I may also need a new rotor because the right one is pretty well glazed and I'm not sure these can be resurfaced?

Guessing I should inspect and clean the pistons to make sure they move as they should, but since this seemed to start right after I re-mounted my rim I'm thinking it's more related to that.

If I can't get this figured out soon I will have to have the stealer get things straightened out before a big trip that I have coming up, but the problem there is that I will not know how to prevent this problem the next time I re-mount my rim... So I would really prefer to do this myself (with help from you great folks)!

Thank you!
 

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I have heard of some putting the spacers in backwards and it really binds up the brake. One spacer is slightly smaller than the other, can't remember which goes on what side but I believe that that info is in the book.
 

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This seemed to start after I re-mounted my rim (replaced the front tire) last season. I followed the steps from Bare's VTX page as far as keeping the pinch bolts loose and slamming the front brake a few times (and even bumping tire into a curb) to supposedly set things into their proper position. His page says that LEFT side dragging is common when not aligned properly, but that the right side is not adjustable. Any idea why the RIGHT side would be dragging and what I could do to fix it? I can't ride the bike now because the pads are toast, and I don't want to put new ones on until I figure out how to get the problem corrected. I may also need a new rotor because the right one is pretty well glazed and I'm not sure these can be resurfaced?

Guessing I should inspect and clean the pistons to make sure they move as they should, but since this seemed to start right after I re-mounted my rim I'm thinking it's more related to that.

If I can't get this figured out soon I will have to have the stealer get things straightened out before a big trip that I have coming up, but the problem there is that I will not know how to prevent this problem the next time I re-mount my rim... So I would really prefer to do this myself (with help from you great folks)!

Thank you!

You may have mounted the rim backwards
 

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GreatLakesRoadRiders.org
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1,410 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks, I had followed all the instructions and had spacers in the proper locations. I found that the rear pads were actually dragging far worse then the front right. My main problem was that I had a warped front right rotor and a warped rear rotor. Which came first, the chicken (dragging pads) or the egg (warped rotor), I cannot say... But I ordered the new rotors and am in the process of servicing the calipers. Once all is said and done, sure hope that everything is good and no stupid issues or surprises (like I always seem to get).

Thanks for the responses. I had set the post up to notify me of replies but I never got an alert about these.
 

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The rotors are installed with permanent loctite on the bolts. This makes removing the bolts holding the rotor to the wheel difficult and can result in stripped bolt heads. When removing the rotors, take a pipe soldering propane torch and hit each bolt head for ~30-45 seconds with direct flame impingement to melt/soften/burn the loctite and then remove the bolt.
 

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GreatLakesRoadRiders.org
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1,410 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
The rotors are installed with permanent loctite on the bolts. This makes removing the bolts holding the rotor to the wheel difficult and can result in stripped bolt heads. When removing the rotors, take a pipe soldering propane torch and hit each bolt head for ~30-45 seconds with direct flame impingement to melt/soften/burn the loctite and then remove the bolt.
Thanks! I was lucky that the bolts were easily removed. Someone must have taken them off in the past, maybe to mount a tire or something else. I am adding fresh (red) loctite to them as I reinstall them.
 
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