[Wayfarer]

I didn’t know you could over tighten the main jet. That is quite possible. The second time I piled the carb bowl down I found the small part of the main jet loose in the bowl. When I put it back on I could have given it a little extra.

Glen’s a/f is properly assembled.

I haven’t checked the plastic washer. Is that on the side of the carb? From the pic it looks like it might be on the right side (if looking at the carb while it is still attached to the bike).

 

[Wayfarer]

idk if you seen the intake gasket when you removed it. If you decide to take it off again, make sure it's fully intact. I doubt it, but if it's nicked, corroded, or protruding I think you'd get extra air. Pic as follows.

Woah. My bike has no intake gasket. The air box mounts to the carb with only the rubber gasket in between. From the pic it looks like the gasket should go between the airbox and the carb. Is this correct?

 

[jessecornell]

That's okay I think. I put that on there because I had a back firing issue I was trying to diagnose for a while. I think you'll be fine w/ only the rubber gasket if the intake is stock. If it's not stock then there's a big flag issue. The Main jet or whatever that tube is called I forget is just about only hand tightened. If you go much past that the brass compresses at the very bottom and can either expand the hole (causing more fuel) or compress the hole (causing a lean or no start issue.) That depends on the carb gods.

Plastic washer is on the right side of carb. It provides a buffer to the idle spring (honestly, i doubt that would be a cause; i'm just trying to mentally narrow down issues.

 

[jessecornell]

Honda Holder needle jet (16165-MEA-671).

 

[Vinish]

Air cut-off and accelerator pump are on the carb body. I do not remember exactly where but they are part of the overall carb assembly.

 

[07Blackcherry]

Here is what the springs look like, just FYI

 

[Wayfarer]

Thanks. I may pull the carb off and go through the whole thing again. This will help

 

[07Blackcherry]

Carb Cleaning 101 | Honda VTX Forum (vtxoa.com)

 

[mrbaumann1]

I bought a Shadow for my grandson earlier this year that was running really fat. It was otherwise a clean low mileage bike. I had that carb in my ultrasonic tank 3 times trying to get it to run right. Nearly pulled my hair out. Long story short I disconnected the vacuum line to the Air Cut Valve and viola, richness disappeared immediately and my grandson has been riding the wheels of it ever since. I had inspected the Air Cut Diaphragm and spring and didn't find a problem with either so I can't explain why this bike wouldn't run right with the Air Cut Valve connected.

I don't know if your VTX carb has an Air Cut Valve but if so I would check it out.

I ride an '09 VTX 1300C that runs awesome with a rejet, Glens A/F screw, and KN Filter.

Cheers, Caveman

 

[Twoodall]

Just a thought, but since it’s fouling out so rapidly, have you entertained the possibility of oil entering the cylinder ? Maybe through the PAIR tubes or maybe a valve seal? From what I understand, there isn’t supposed to be oil in the PAIR system. It’s more like an EGR system in cars. It has to have a free flow of air. If there’s oil in it, you have other problems.

 

[Whiskyrocker]

Just curious, but it seems you've checked everything but the Petcock area. If there's any kind of leak at that area, it can also cause issues with fuel problems. Those are vacuum actuated as well and most people overlook them when looking problems. Where I'm referring to, if you're unsure, is the area just above the choke where you see a phillips screw head coming off the connector to the tank. Didn't read anywhere on the thread where that area was checked. Just thought I'd bring that to mind as well