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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this may have been addressed in the past, but I need a definitive answer if I can. Took the bike out for a spin around the block and when I got back I could not shut it off. When I put it in kill, or ignition switch off, or kickstand down, it would try to shut off, but the starter and engine kept running. By the way, it's an 1800C 2006 model. While running I also noticed it was makiing alot of noise which I can only imagine it was the starter staying engaged. I finally had to pull the 30A breaker to get it to shut off. After that, I now have a dead battery which I'm sure was from the constant draw from the starter for about 15 minutes. Checked batt charge and it was completely dead. New battery by the way. Hope it's not toast. By the way, the bike only has 1700 miles on it and I just bought it so I'm not up on all the quirks. I've read about the ignition switch problem, but would think that it being new I wouldn't have that problem yet. I did open the cover and it looks like new. I did not disconnect it all the way. SOOOOO, If anyone can point me in the right direction I'd greatly appreciate it. Hop I can get an answer soon.

Many Thanks, Bruce
 

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wow. I don't have an answer for that one but I am sure someone will be along shortly to help you out.
Good luck
 

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Starter Solenoid had welded the contacts together. disconnect the battery, charge the battery.

replace the solenoid for the starter. NOT THE STARTER.
 

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The solenoid is under the left side cover. It is to the right of the tool compartment. You can see the battery cable and the starter cable connected to it. I had the same problem last year and replaced it with this solenoid. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMALL-ENGINE-STARTER-SOLENOID-12-VOLT-4-POLE-PART-5933-/330786201909?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d0464e135
I did buy another stock one and put it on a couple of weeks ago when I installed a new battery. This week, the new solenoid went bad and caused my bike to either not start at all, or keep the starter engaged. The lawn tractor solenoid is back on the bike.
I made jumpers to connect the small wires to this solenoid. When you install it it will look too big. It's not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks, what's funny is I recharged the battery and hooked everything up and so far everything is working well again. Restarted bike about 4Times and so far so good. Guess it's gonna be one of those hit and miss problems. Is this just a problem with the C models?? If so, is there another part number for another switch off a different model. Seems there should be an OEM one out there or aftermarket that will work. Any info on this???????
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I see the one on ebay that's you're talking about. I'll take your word that it'll work and order one.. Can't hurt.

Thanks, Bruce
 

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Whats the problem ?.. just keep riding !!!! I think the bike is telling you that its not time to go home yet ... :)
 

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The first time i had a problem with it I did the same thing and thought it was just a glitch. But sure enough the problem returned. It has never done it with the lawn tractor solenoid. I have taken the switch apart and cleaned it, I have replaced the battery twice and still had the problem. The only thing that has worked is the lawn tractor solenoid. The last oem replacement started acting up in about 2 weeks. Don't know what the heck is going on. The plus side to the lawn tractor solenoid is it makes it easier to jump start your bike or use it to help a friend when they need a jump. The terminals are easily accessible. I used 2 male bullet connectors and 2 female quick disconnects for my jumpers. I am going to leave the lawn tractor solenoid on now. I don't know why I even switched back to oem. If it works don't fix it!
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
One more question I didn't ask earlier. Did it seem as if your bike was still running while the starter was continuously engaged? Seems to me that my engine was running also. When I tried turning it off it would act like it was trying to shut off, RPM dropped, then starter would kick in and out, but engine never actually shut down. Maybe my misconception since I was hecticly trying to get it shutdown. I dunno?? Is that what you experienced?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So everything being said, Change the starter relay switch. I'll take the advice and go with a tractor solenoid since this seems to be a ongoing problem with the OEM one. If still having the problem, I'll go to the Switch cleaning.
Thanks to all who have offered their insight. Anyone have a pic of how they installed the tractor solenoid? I want to get this fixed asap.

Many Thanks, Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just went to J&P cycles and K&S makes a universal with all the connectors and jumpers for $35.00. Anyone used one yet?
 

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I can make some jumpers like mine and mail them to you for let's say.......................$0. You won't need anything else. The solenoid bolts to the stock location and the stock cables will reach. My bike is an 06 C model so it should be identical to yours.
 

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I just had the same thing happen on my 2006 N. Was on a 250 mile ride, stopped to get gas after 150 beautiful hill country miles... started right up but the starter just kept going and going. Took me 10 minutes to find a place in Fredricksburg to park it, then it wouldn't shut off. I got the seat off and touched the wiring harness on top of the battery and the whole thing died. Then I had no battery or anything. I am going to put a new battery on it because the one on it is 2+ years old. I hope 10 minutes of running constantly didn't burn up the starter.
 

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You need to download the service manual.
It's the same as $60 hard copy I use.

Relay / Solenoid - same thing.
They make a physical move internally to make a higher load contact.


Low battery power is the first reason this happens.
More than likely it was noticed spinning the engine over slower / under strain.

Making the noise it did after it started - with starter still engaged at full speed -
I find it odd guys still take it for a cruise - when every second counts to make it quit - with key off -

Simple whack on relay, swinging screw driver handle at it,
would have broke the connection from slight weld of contacts.
Where it over powered the return spring.

Some time down the road - a new one should replace it.
Trickle chargers can fake out real battery conditions.
A real charger 2 - 10 - 20 amp should be used first to show full charge - then maintained with trickle / float.

You may have gotten lucky this time.
 

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Same thing is happening to my buddy's 2007 1800T. I looked at everything I can, all of the fuses are intact, and good ground wire connections. The battery actually reads 0 volts when it is hooked to the bike. Also the battery tender will not charge it at all. I take the battery out, ant it has 3-5 volts, and the battery tender is charging now. I placed an ohm meter between the negative battery and negative wire from the bike at it shows lots of resistance. I'll check the starter relay when I get back over there. could it be anything else?
 

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The battery actually reads 0 volts when it is hooked to the bike.

Also the battery tender will not charge it at all.

I take the battery out, ant it has 3-5 volts, and the battery tender is charging now.

I placed an ohm meter between the negative battery and negative wire from the bike at it shows lots of resistance.
I'll check the starter relay when I get back over there. could it be anything else?
Battery will try to recover on it's own to a certain chemical point when the load is removed.

A very low level anyway from zero.
In some cases - this is very cool - it saved my butt once.

The small charger will need to stay on it all day removed from Scoot - normally back to life -
but it was tortured doing a severe service.
Again this usually happens - when battery is not fully charged - low volts/high load does the magic trick
of lightly welding the contacts inside relay during extended start mode.

Fuel Injection gets past this drama by quickly starting.

Starter relay options are out there - NAPA is a good source if there's one locally.
They have listings by device - very handy.
It's how I found alternate temperature fan switch.

Good Luck
 

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Well, we went to NAPA, they had a universal starter relay for 48.00. So we went to an O'Rileys, and bought one for a Murray/ Snapper. It only had three terminals but it had the same mounting points as the original We hooked it all up using the positive wire of the starter switch(yellow), and tried to start it. Nothing. It turns out, that the new part needed a better ground wire, so we sanded down the paint behind the new relay, and then where the bracket met the frame. then tried again, and success! Thanks for your help guys. now, we're back on the road.
 
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