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Discussion Starter #1
I know there are tons of threads similar to this but I have read them so as not to post a repeat and non of them directly apply. I have a 2006 VTX1800N. I layed it down in a wreck and had a honda dealer fix it. The rear fender was damaged so when they fixed it I had them remove the license plate bracket and light so I could mount it n the side off on the shock mount and to give the full fender a sleek look. I also had them add some large LED signals to replace the smal LED signals I had that were hard for cars to see. I got it back from them and it worked perfectly, the new signals ran as additional running lights and the worked as turn signals too.

Here is where I screwed it all up. I took off the fender and started searching ( without reading forums and researching first) for a hot wire to power the new license plate bracket light. I thought I fou d one in one of the plugs that goes to the rear lights. So at the plug under the side cover (the plug that goes to the rear lights and must be removed to take off the rear fender) I unplugged the light blue connected and tried to stick the wires of the license plate light in there to see if it worked. STUPiD I know. I heard a click near the front of the bike and now the right rear LED light is out. All other lights work perfectly.

All bulbs are good. All other flashers work. All other running lights work and brake light works. The fuses in the fuse box under the right side cover are all good, I checked twice. The flashers work so the relay must be good. Are there other fuses I don't know about? It can't be the turn signal itself either cause it was unplugged when I did the stupid act of testing for power.

The right LED light wont work as a running light and won't work as a turn signal. Please help.
 

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the 05 and up VTX's has a electronic turn signal controller .. On my "F" it is behind the left side cover.. you may have damaged it...

use the Honda service manual and trouble shoot this circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks so much for the reply.

I will track down my service manual and do what you suggested tonight after work. I will give an update late tonight.

If I can get this fixed, I'll post some pics of my modified fender.

Any other suggestions are welcome.
 

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Thanks... and the controller is a smart type.. it can tell if bulbs are connected or not.. SO testing must be done with ALL bulbs connected...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I ordered a new electronic flasher. I actually got one off eBay for $18 that was of a 2011 CBR 250. It appears to be the same part number so I am hoping it works. I read the service manual but the testing of the relay was a bit over my head (or patience level) so I just ordered this one.

I have been reading on the forums and if this doesn't work I have read that the Kisan Technologies SM3-R may work but I am not researched it yet. The new (actually used) electronic flasher should be in by Wednesday of next week.
 

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Sorry to hear about your problem. A multimeter is your friend. Inexpensive and essential to check voltage, continuity, etc. Try Radio Shack or Lowes, etc.

Is that Conroe Texas? I got my very first speeding ticket there many moons ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sorry to hear about your problem. A multimeter is your friend. Inexpensive and essential to check voltage, continuity, etc. Try Radio Shack or Lowes, etc.

Is that Conroe Texas? I got my very first speeding ticket there many moons ago.
Yup, Conroe Texas. The cops here are on a power trip and love to make money off of I45... Especially since it was widened.

i do need a voltmeter. The new electronic flasher relay gets here today, so we will see if that works. I don't think it will because with it unplugged, the running light is still out and all the others work. Makes it sound like a continuity problem. And tha sounds hard to fix. Do you think it is possible to burn wires apart or do you know if there is a fusible link somewhere in the wires? I think they are built to melt and sever before damage?
 

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Yes. The fuse is designed to "blow" before wires or electrical components are damaged. Wires CAN melt, but that would be a very unusual situation. I just re-read your original post. I'd wager that the "click" you heard was a fuse. Hard to find maybe, but an easy fix when you do. Good luck running this problem down. Maybe someone in the Houston area can pitch in?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes. The fuse is designed to "blow" before wires or electrical components are damaged. Wires CAN melt, but that would be a very unusual situation. I just re-read your original post. I'd wager that the "click" you heard was a fuse. Hard to find maybe, but an easy fix when you do. Good luck running this problem down. Maybe someone in the Houston area can pitch in?
It does sound like a fuse, I agree. I checked the three main 30A fuses on the left side and I checked all the fuses in the man box under the right side cover. I also took out the headlight to check there for fuses but non were found. I replaced the flasher relay today and that did not solve the problem. I am about out of options...

Does anyone know where more fuses would be?:swear:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes. The fuse is designed to "blow" before wires or electrical components are damaged. Wires CAN melt, but that would be a very unusual situation. I just re-read your original post. I'd wager that the "click" you heard was a fuse. Hard to find maybe, but an easy fix when you do. Good luck running this problem down. Maybe someone in the Houston area can pitch in?
Having someone in Houston or better yet north Houston to help would be perfect....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, I can't find anymore fuses to check and not I don't think it is a continuity issue. I am giving up and will be taking it to the honda place to let them figure it out. I'll let you guys know what it is so maybe it will save someone else some time in the future.
 
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