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As I was passing a rig today doing around 90-95 my vex gave me a surprising wobble like I had a flat tire in the rear. It regained composure after passing and reducing throttle. Needless to say it took a lot longer for me to regain composure. Bushings only have about 5000 miles on them and the shock's are set at 4 with me at 145lbs. It's never done this before and didn't do it again. Hopefully it was just a freak wobble. Has anyone experience this kind of bad behavior?
 

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steering head bearings?????? when have they been replaced?????

a well known issue on the 1300...

search the hundred plus threads on this issue...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Replaced steering bearings with all balls over the winter although I may need to recheck the torque on the nut.
 

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Too short for my weight
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Could it be passing through the wind vortex created by the rig? Also, maybe just was something on the road that caused it? I was riding yesterday and as I came over the mountain the wind picked up, hitting me from the front and it was bad enough that I though my clutch was slipping.
 

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As I was passing a rig today doing around 90-95 my vex gave me a surprising wobble like I had a flat tire in the rear. It regained composure after passing and reducing throttle. Needless to say it took a lot longer for me to regain composure. Bushings only have about 5000 miles on them and the shock's are set at 4 with me at 145lbs. It's never done this before and didn't do it again. Hopefully it was just a freak wobble. Has anyone experience this kind of bad behavior?
Could it be passing through the wind vortex created by the rig? Also, maybe just was something on the road that caused it? I was riding yesterday and as I came over the mountain the wind picked up, hitting me from the front and it was bad enough that I though my clutch was slipping.

It sounds like you hit the anti trifecta. I get that a lot on NJ freeways esp when passing big rigs. The roads here can certainly contribute. It's not a great feeling and often causes me to go over the shocks, forks etc to ensure everything is good.
 
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5K on the shock bushings is enough for them to maybe need replacing. A question of age, weathering, condition of roads you ride on, not from miles put on them. A cheap enough re-do. For your weight, shock setting of 4 might be a little stiff. What tire pressures? Agree re-torque the steering neck bearings.
 

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I would still check the condition of the bushings.. easy enough.

I did have to re-torque my All Balls after... Damn, around 30k miles? Re-torqued them, and haven't had an issue since.

-Gonz
 

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I also had to retorque the neck bearings...
 

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~ High-Finesse Hooligan ~
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These guys are all right on! My neck bearings also needed re-torque after 10k miles. Shock bushings are 50% spent at 5k miles. Most likely though, wake vortex turbulence (windage) of the truck and your giant, flat windscreen... what a combo at 95 mph... the buffeting alone can cause this... loose bearings and bushings can magnify the effect... good thing the only skidmarks were in yer shorts...
 

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Check tire pressure and for out of round, balance.:patriot:I like ro run front at 38 PSIG, rear at 39 PSIG and love 'Ride-On" for balance/sealant.
 
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I have hit some winds out there in the desert, windshield, 80mph that made me pucker with a slow wobble.
Almost like I was pulling/pushing the bars back and forth. Pucker factor of about 10 !!
I am sure it was the wind (prob 50+ mph) and speed combined.
Wind was off center angle coming at me...
Has never done it again......??



.
 

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Change in throttle / power during the middle of a steering adjustment could be a contributing factor. I have had that happen to me a couple of times getting on the freeway @ WOT, a sudden lane change and backing off the throttle at the same time!!!!!! Scares the bejesus out of you, don't it!!!!!
 

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Could Dyna Beads cause wobble? Last weekend did All Balls and fork clean and rebuild (stock). Still wobbly. Running Dark side and shorty shocks 11". I have a solo Mustang seat that sits me back fractionally including a socket mod on bars and a long arm reach 6'4', I was thinking possibly weight distribution issue? Tomorrow ill lean forward and try it. I have to pass cars in my area and I cant stand the wobble. Any ideas? Please give me an excuse to do some more wrenching.
 

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Did you carefully follow the instructions for torquing the castle nut? These would be to torque to 25 ft-lbs, turn the front wheel from lock to lock about 10 times, and then tighten the castle nut again to 25 ft-lbs of torque. Secondly, are you certain that all three of your new races are properly seated? You have to pound these in quite firmly using a steel plate until the sound of the pounding changes. The top and bottom races must be inserted so they are below the level of the surrounding lip of the frame tube by roughly 1/16". This is done by using the old race as a driver to properly seat them.
 

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Just finished a 450 mile run, mostly Highway 1 along the coast. No wobble after torquing to 25lbs. The locking castle isn’t tight, couldn’t reach the next notch. Not sure what to do about that.
Off and on I noticed a few times a high frequency vibration from the front. “Vibrating” nothing shaking. I’ll contribute it to road conditions unless it’s happened to others. But was thinking wheel bearings. They felt fine when wheel was off.
anyways, thanks for the torque tip Vanish.
 

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The castle nut is torqued to 25 ft-lbs, wheel is turned lock to lock about 10 times, castle nut it tightened again to 25 ft-lbs. Then the lock tab washer is installed, then the second nut (the thin one) is applied over the lock tab washer. This second nut is tightened by hand and then tightened further just by a tiny amount until the lock tab washer tabs align with the next set of grooves in this thin washer. The easiest way to accomplish this last bit of tightening is to put the business end of a medium screwdriver in a groove and very lightly tap the end of the screwdriver with a hammer until the tab and next groove align. Then bend the two tabs up into the now aligned grooves. Install the top triple tree brace assuring the same amount of each fork tube sticks up over the top of this brace. Tighten the clamping Allen wrenches and then torque the center chrome nut to 76 ft-lbs. It might be the reverse order for the last two steps, I cannot remember so check the service manual. If you moved the forks at all up and down in the bottom triple tree brace, perform the axle alignment process from the service manual.
 

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Because everything was already set, I didn't loosen the lower tree tube clamps to re-torque the castle. Fork tubes are now just under 1/16th up which shouldn't be a problem. Also proved that torquing worked. Still, Couldn't get the last castle to the "next notch" so it's basically hand tight. Unless I go 5lbs + or - the the first castle spec? I think it'll be fine though as is. BTW it rides much better. Had a leaking seal and went with 12 1/2 wt fork oil with stock guts. Thanks again.
 

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Yes, it will be fine. I've done, seen, or helped on at least 30 steering bearing replacements on VTX1300 bikes. On exactly zero of them was the thin nut above the castle nut not able to be turned to the next notch with a light push from a screwdriver perhaps assisted with a hammer tap on the end of the screwdriver. Regardless, that nut is supposed to not be tight to the castle nut so you will be fine. The lock tab washer will keep the castle nut from turning independent of the thin nut and the pressure of the top triple tree brace against the thin nut will keep it from turning. Good job.
 
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