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i believe honda changed the recommondation from 10-40 to 10-30wt.is to sell more oil.there is no difference in motor's.they did change the main jet 03-07 is 195 and 08-09 is 190.that is probaly due to the exhaust.i use shell rottella(blue jug) synthentic from walmart at 19.00 a gallon and walmart filter ST6607 at 2.67 and change every 3000 miles at that price.always have clean oil then.
been doing the same for the last 16k miles and no issues yet!
 

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Puralator advises against the pure one for bikes. According to them the baypass bvalve is too stiff to be actuated by a bike oil pump.
That is the "official" information from their website. Keep in mind tire manufacturers highly discourage the use of CT's on motorcycles. :confused: There are quite a number of members (me included) who have been using these filters for a long time with no problems. (no problems with my Michelin HydroEdge either) :nope:

Back in January there was a discussion dealing directly with the Purolator Pure One filters being used on motorcycles. This is the link. Should have all the info you need.

:choppersm
 

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i believe honda changed the recommondation from 10-40 to 10-30wt.is to sell more oil.there is no difference in motor's.they did change the main jet 03-07 is 195 and 08-09 is 190.that is probaly due to the exhaust.i use shell rottella(blue jug) synthentic from walmart at 19.00 a gallon and walmart filter ST6607 at 2.67 and change every 3000 miles at that price.always have clean oil then.



Yep, going to have to agree with ya.

But I thought the main was droped to a 185 in 08 :D

20-50 also works well in these bikes. Only reason I know is I just had to try it, because someone said , no you can run 20-50 in these, that was a long time ago. I think it was spike on the OA board, but then he sells Amsoil. :D
 

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Parameters? This would have to be refering to the clearance between main parts for where oil is critical, such as main bearings, wrist pins and rod end caps. There have a closer spec than the same parts for an aircooled engine. I fail to see their point though. 10/30 oil is the viscosity rating warm and cold. It is always thicker when cold which makes the oil harder to push into tight spaces such as main bearings. So the only difference would be at cold startup. I don't see how 10/40 could have that much more difficulty than 10/30. It would lead me to have less confidence in the engine however. Aircooled engines run hotter so have more clearance since the parts expand with heat and close the clearances. Watercooled engines can have tighter clearances since the parts are kept cooler. tightening the clearance that much more would mean less operating temperature forgiveness. That means if the engine does overheat you must shutdown sooner because the parts will expand toward each other and contact sooner. Contact is what scores bearings and journals and causes major engine damage. So why did Honda decide to do this when any other bike out there could sell itself by being more forgiving should the rider not notice the temp light right away? I don't see the intelligence behind this move at all.
 

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This supposedly goes for all the VT1300's as well (Fury, Interstate, et al). They told me it's because the new engine's parameters are completely different than 07's and earlier.

1 - So what does "parameters" mean?

And

2 - Just what oil (regular AND synthetic) should I/we be using?

Frankly, all I want to know is what is the best oil and the best 'inexpensive' oil filter I can put in/on my 2009 VTX 1300C?

Is that really too much to ask rather than keep getting all this run around from everyone and every dealer and every website that don't want to get pinned down or just seem to want to sell THEIR secret numbered oil and filter.

Sheese!

Some Yamaha mechanic that owns an 1800 told me this morning on the phone that it's no secret that the Honda OEM Filter #15410-MFJ-D-01 is exactly the SAME filter that FRAM sells as the #PH6017A, only cheaper.

How are we supposed to know things like that?!! :banghead:
OK.... to be consistent with other posts I've made, I need to call a good natured BS alert....

I've learned to never accept a mechanic's word for anything, (OK, I'm a licensed mechanic, but if I can't produce documentation, I'm full of BS....) without valid documentation...

I'd love to hear more of the factory's (documented) version of requisite oil.....

Personally, I'm considering the Mobil 1 versions of oil filter... and 30 weight... or even 40 weight oil would probably be acceptable, here.....

Yankees? Y'all that have 2 seasons.... Winter and 4th of July....? Yeah, you could probably sell me the 30 weight stuff.....

Service pubs....? Anybody???
 

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Parameters? This would have to be refering to the clearance between main parts for where oil is critical, such as main bearings, wrist pins and rod end caps. There have a closer spec than the same parts for an aircooled engine. I fail to see their point though. 10/30 oil is the viscosity rating warm and cold. It is always thicker when cold which makes the oil harder to push into tight spaces such as main bearings. So the only difference would be at cold startup. I don't see how 10/40 could have that much more difficulty than 10/30. It would lead me to have less confidence in the engine however. Aircooled engines run hotter so have more clearance since the parts expand with heat and close the clearances. Watercooled engines can have tighter clearances since the parts are kept cooler. tightening the clearance that much more would mean less operating temperature forgiveness. That means if the engine does overheat you must shutdown sooner because the parts will expand toward each other and contact sooner. Contact is what scores bearings and journals and causes major engine damage. So why did Honda decide to do this when any other bike out there could sell itself by being more forgiving should the rider not notice the temp light right away? I don't see the intelligence behind this move at all.
I thinks you are backwards the smaller # is the cold weight and larger hot weight.

That or all the charts I have ever read are wrong.
 

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I thinks you are backwards the smaller # is the cold weight and larger hot weight.

That or all the charts I have ever read are wrong.
True, that...... and don't EVEN try to relate air cooled with water cooled. I'm not sure that ANY synthetic has an acceptable rating with an air cooled engine....
 

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You may very well be right about my numbers being backward. I know that the ratings are for 0degF and 210degF. So I associated the numbers is that order then reversed them. When I said warm and cold I should have said cold and warm. I do know it is a reference to how well the oil flows at each temp. What exactly the numbers mean I am unsure of. The point is that hot oil is thinner and flows more readily into small places and less readily into them when cold.
 

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Well, per the AMSoil dealer and Joe Licketto (Cafe member and owner or Madness Motorcycle Repair and Service), who says that's what HE uses and especially since it's so hot here and I tend to ride the crap outta my bike almost every day.

So I got the AMSoil 20/50.

I'll see how she does.
 

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I swapped out my oil yesterday on my new 09 1300c just for kicks, and the dealership (Honda/Kawi/Yamaha/Suzuki) didn't even carry conventional 10w-30, only 10w-40. Can't imagine they would be squirreling all the 10w-30 in the back, if Honda required it, you would think they would be carrying it. I took that as a sign that 10w-40 isn't going to kill my bike.
 

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Honda never can make up their mind,,,,

Check out this page from a VTX service manual. Any guesses what year????


In a VTX, 20 - 50 won't really protect you much more, if any, than 10-40 will until well after the century mark,,,

What 'may' be a benefit of the 20 - 50 is it's higher base number, which may help extend the amount of time it takes to 'shear' your oil,,, (I.E. extend your oils service life a bit)

Gotta love how this chart doesn't recommend 10 - 30 over about 90 degrees!!!
 

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Exactly as Scotrod posted. The owner's manual that came with my '09 1300C has the same graph which clearly shows 10w-40 (among others) as acceptable oil types.

FWIW, I've been using 10w-40 in my 1300c here in 100+F Texas weather and, according to honda's owner manual, it's a good thing I do. I've not had any problems.
 

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. The owner's manual that came with my '09 1300C has the same graph .
Eh, does it show 20w/40 and 20w/50 as well? :D Probably the same type of graph with different info,, My 06 Service Manual doesn't look like the one I posted above. (Hint,,, 'early' VTX)

Mine only has one 'arrow, with 10W-30 and 10W-40 both written in it going from -10 to ,,, oh,,, depending on what part of the arrow head ya look at,,, 90 / 100 / 110,,,,
 

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Yep, it has this same graph with the same oils and temps.

Eh, does it show 20w/40 and 20w/50 as well? :D Probably the same type of graph with different info,, My 06 Service Manual doesn't look like the one I posted above. (Hint,,, 'early' VTX)

Mine only has one 'arrow, with 10W-30 and 10W-40 both written in it going from -10 to ,,, oh,,, depending on what part of the arrow head ya look at,,, 90 / 100 / 110,,,,
 

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Really? That's somewhat strange if Honda is also saying 10W-30 must be used,,, Must be more like 'Recommended', and not 'must be used',,,

The Service Manual I pictured above was told to be circa 2002-2003.

I guess the 15w-40 I'm using,,, if I follow the 'graph' in my manual, is simply not acceptable !!! :nono: (Yeah, right! LMAO!!!)
 

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You can learn a lot about motorcycle oil at this web site:

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

That web site also has a lot of info on oil filters, including the OEM stuff:

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#OilFilters

There are other pages on that site on the subjects of oil and filters including a very good filter substitution chart.

And, the site has some very good pointers to other experts on the subject. More reading than you have time for.

By the way, best and inexpensive seldom go together but we do want to avoid wasting money.

I use Pure One oil filters and Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (JASO) MA compliant synthetic oil.

Geezer
What brand oil did you use i was told 10w30 for cars is the same?
 
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