Honda VTX 1300 / VTX 1800 Motorcycles Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,
I am hesitant to say the bike wobbles because I watched some wobble videos where the handlebars aggressively slap the tank. My issue is more of an oscillating s turn pattern. The bike will go 3 feet to the left and then 3 feet to the right and so on if I let the handlebars go.

I just bought a 2009 vtx 1300 (24,000 miles) and decided to change the stock steering head bearings to the all balls kit. The bike was previously exhibiting a falling feeling during slow turns. This has now been remedied with the all balls bearings. However, after the bearings change, I noticed that the bike pulls left and right at about .5 second frequency around 25 mph if I hold the handle bars lightly. It may have done this before but I didn't ride it much since I bought it. The bike seemed sturdy (it would go straight) at higher speeds and lower speeds. I had torqued the steering stem adjustment nut to 25 lbf ft.
I bought a spring scale, raised the bike off the ground, and the steering bearing preload was 6lbs to turn right and 15 pounds to the left. I would think the handlebars should pull equally and flow freely rather than require so much force to turn them.

I decided to take it all apart again to make sure I had placed the races properly and rebuilt it all again. This time I torqued the steering stem adjustment nut to 15 lbf ft. After a test ride I would have to say the turning left and right s turn matter is still there. It may even be happening at slower speeds as well as at 25 mph making it worse then before. The steering bearing preload is 10 lbs turning to the right and now 20 lbs turning to the left.

Any thoughts? I would really like to get the bike to ride straight at all speeds as I am looking forward to hitting the road.
Thank you,
Carl
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,086 Posts
Check out the tires for any apparent problems. Check the trueness of the rims. Adjust the front axle alignment per the method specified in the manual. What process did you use to verify that the two races and the bearings on the bottom of the shaft are properly seated?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,355 Posts
check the rear shock rubber bushings... remove the upper nut and washer.
and see if the rubber doughnut . is de-formed .. even a little is cause the front end to shake.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Check out the tires for any apparent problems. Check the trueness of the rims. Adjust the front axle alignment per the method specified in the manual. What process did you use to verify that the two races and the bearings on the bottom of the shaft are properly seated?
I will check the tires, rims, and front axle alignment. Thank you! To verify the races were properly seated I knocked them out and resat them the second time and did a visual inspection. I have to admit I would have like to of had depth specs to compare them to <see image of bottom race>. I just hit them in until they wouldn't go any further. As for the bearing on the bottom of the shaft (squeezing the seal tightly) I just hit it down until it was pressed against the bottom didn't seem to go any further. I used the process as shown in the picture which shows the bearing on its way down.
239890

239891
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
check the rear shock rubber bushings... remove the upper nut and washer.
and see if the rubber doughnut . is de-formed .. even a little is cause the front end to shake.
I checked the rear shocks bushings and I think this (see image below) would qualify as deformed. The bolt is off center which I think is because of a bad bushing. The right side of the bike looked the worst and they are all off at least a little bit.
239892
 

·
Fastest Red Club Member
2007 VTX 1300R, Indianapolis
Joined
·
7,527 Posts
I checked the rear shocks bushings and I think this (see image below) would qualify as deformed. The bolt is off center which I think is because of a bad bushing. The right side of the bike looked the worst and they are all off at least a little bit.
View attachment 239892
Yep that's deformed. You can get the 1800 poly bushings that are easiest to fit and will last. Others use a plain white thing that you have to really force into the hole. McMaster Carr or something like that. I went with the 1800 green bushings never any issues.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,086 Posts
When you seat the races, you need to use the old races on top of them to drive them in. You place a flat piece of steel (~4" x 4" x 1/4") on top of the old race which is on top of the new race and then you hit the steel with a 3 lb sledge. The sound made from hitting the steel with the sledge will change dramatically when the race is correctly bottomed out. The old race is then removed (may take minor persuasion) and you are good to go.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PaXman11
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top