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No Reason To Be Serious
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Discussion Starter #1
On last weekends ride to WV, my $4 Walmart 12v power outlet failed..

I bought me a new one, a "chrome" Kuryakyn Power outlet that will mount on the handlebars...

My question.... is there a switched hot wire in the headlight bucket? If so, what color is it, or where is it hooked to?

Any foreseeable problems with me hooking to it?

Thanks,

Spoiler
 

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I think there is a hot wire, but I don't think it is switched. Wishing you well.
 

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Reeling Jackwagon
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There is a light blue with a white stripe that is switched but you would be best to run a relay off that wire and pull power from the battery. Have you read the Power Block mod
 

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There is a light blue with a white stripe that is switched but you would be best to run a relay off that wire and pull power from the battery. Have you read the Power Block mod
I agree - use the switched wire in the bucket to trigger the relay and run it off the battery. I don't recommend anything being connected in the headlight the draws very much current. Connecting up a trigger for a relay is fine.
 

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No Reason To Be Serious
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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, I have reveiwed the power block mod thread a time or two.. (maybe 6 or 7)
I have the stuff here to do it as well, maybe I should get this all done at once...

The only add on electrical thing that I currently have is this 12 v plug, but who knows what will happen...
 

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Doug ,when you say ( trigger ) do you mean a hot wire from battery ( or this blue w/ white stripe wire)to a relay (of some sort ) to the item that you want powered? I am by no means electrically savy Just trying to pick -up what I can w/o burning my bike down... Thanks
 

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Doug ,when you say ( trigger ) do you mean a hot wire from battery ( or this blue w/ white stripe wire)to a relay (of some sort ) to the item that you want powered? I am by no means electrically savy Just trying to pick -up what I can w/o burning my bike down... Thanks
On a relay there are 4 pins.
Pin 86 is the trigger for the relay and you find a wire in the headlight that gets power when you turn on the ignition key so when the relay gets power from that point to pin 86 the relay closes.
Pin 85 goes to ground.
Pin 30 is 12v hot from the battery.
Pin 87 becomes Hot 12v when the relay is closed because of the trigger pin 86 gets a 12v source when key is on.
With pin 87 hot when the relay is closed the wire goes threw a switch then to the auxiliary light. When the key is turned off pin 87 trigger loses it's 12v and opens so you don't run the battery down.
Click on to enlarge.


Doug ,when you say ( trigger ) do you mean a hot wire from battery ( or this blue w/ white stripe wire)to a relay (of some sort ) to the item that you want powered? I am by no means electrically savy Just trying to pick -up what I can w/o burning my bike down... Thanks
On a relay there are 4 pins.
Pin 86 is the trigger for the relay and you find a wire in the headlight that gets power when you turn on the ignition key so when the relay gets power from that point to pin 86 the relay closes.
Pin 85 goes to ground.
Pin 30 is 12v hot from the battery.
Pin 87 becomes Hot 12v when the relay is closed because of the trigger pin 86 gets a 12v source when key is on.
With pin 87 hot when the relay is closed the wire goes threw a switch then to the auxiliary light. When the key is turned off pin 87 trigger loses it's 12v and opens so you don't run the battery down.
Click on to enlarge.

Most relays don't have pin 87a
 

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Yes, I have reveiwed the power block mod thread a time or two.. (maybe 6 or 7)
I have the stuff here to do it as well, maybe I should get this all done at once...

The only add on electrical thing that I currently have is this 12 v plug, but who knows what will happen...
Hey, you know you mentioned looking into one of those Viberider seats no tlong ago. You might want to get one for your passenger as well.....:D
 

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On a relay there are 4 pins.
Pin 86 is the trigger for the relay and you find a wire in the headlight that gets power when you turn on the ignition key so when the relay gets power from that point to pin 86 the relay closes.
Pin 85 goes to ground.
Pin 30 is 12v hot from the battery.
Pin 87 becomes Hot 12v when the relay is closed because of the trigger pin 86 gets a 12v source when key is on.
With pin 87 hot when the relay is closed the wire goes threw a switch then to the auxiliary light. When the key is turned off pin 87 trigger loses it's 12v and opens so you don't run the battery down.
Click on to enlarge.



On a relay there are 4 pins.
Pin 86 is the trigger for the relay and you find a wire in the headlight that gets power when you turn on the ignition key so when the relay gets power from that point to pin 86 the relay closes.
Pin 85 goes to ground.
Pin 30 is 12v hot from the battery.
Pin 87 becomes Hot 12v when the relay is closed because of the trigger pin 86 gets a 12v source when key is on.
With pin 87 hot when the relay is closed the wire goes threw a switch then to the auxiliary light. When the key is turned off pin 87 trigger loses it's 12v and opens so you don't run the battery down.
Click on to enlarge.

Most relays don't have pin 87a
Got It the illustration will help out alot.. thanks
 

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I am trying to hook up my mini led drive light on my crash bars and it says to connect the orange wire to a keyed positive wire on the bike using a T-Tap that was supplied with the kit. Can I tap into the headlight and is it the blue wire I tap into?
 

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I am trying to hook up my mini led drive light on my crash bars and it says to connect the orange wire to a keyed positive wire on the bike using a T-Tap that was supplied with the kit. Can I tap into the headlight and is it the blue wire I tap into?
There's a solid green, blue and white wire to the headlight.
 

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If memory is still working
Green is ground
Blue is high beam
White is low beam

do NOT use T-tap... western union connection and solder and tape.

WOW,, 9 year old post... and names I have not seen in years.
I miss el-Spoiler.
 

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If memory is still working
Green is ground
Blue is high beam
White is low beam

do NOT use T-tap... western union connection and solder and tape.

WOW,, 9 year old post... and names I have not seen in years.
I miss el-Spoiler.
I was thinking same I clicked on this post when I saw Spoiler.

I'll add to what Silver said, avoid direct connection to factory headlight wire with any addon lights. Use the light wiring to trigger a relay for supplying power. Keeps the load off the factory wiring. If you can't solder use a posi-tap. Do not use the knife t-taps they destroy wiring.
 

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I agree that it is better to power the add-on lights through a relay. As for what wire to use to trigger the relay, I recommend the blue wire with white stripe. This appears in three locations in the headlight bucket and any of the three locations will work. You can also put the relay in the headlight bucket. This blue/white stripe wire has power whenever the bike is turned on but the start button is NOT pressed. It provides power to both the low and high beam headlight.
 

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I am using the accessory wire in the headlight bucket to run my Cobra light bar, I have daymakers in my lightbar, otherwise I would have used the accessory wire as the signal for a relay. This accessory wire cuts power when you push the starter button.

Here is the harness for people to pick apart what colors are which. I used my tester to identify the + and -. (Click the image for full size)
 

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It is not the best option to use that accessory plug to power auxiliary lights. The contacts in the starter button are prone to damage from the large load that passes through them. Adding auxiliary lights increases this load even more. When you press the starter button, it cuts off the load due to lights, starts the engine, and then when you release the button, the load from the lights is reestablished. It is this on/off/on load changing that damages the contacts. By reducing this load, you lessen the potential for damage to the starter contacts.
 

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It is not the best option to use that accessory plug to power auxiliary lights. The contacts in the starter button are prone to damage from the large load that passes through them. Adding auxiliary lights increases this load even more. When you press the starter button, it cuts off the load due to lights, starts the engine, and then when you release the button, the load from the lights is reestablished. It is this on/off/on load changing that damages the contacts. By reducing this load, you lessen the potential for damage to the starter contacts.
That accessory plug was designed to handle the honda radio? Or was it the touring lights?

I definitely wouldn’t use it for halogen lights, but wouldn’t daymakers be fine? This is how mine is wired.
 

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It was designed to handle auxiliary lights but like other things on the VTX1300 (e.g. steering bearings), it was designed poorly. Or maybe it is better to say that the start button was designed poorly. It cannot even handle the base load. Adding more load that must pass through the start button causes even more trouble. I recommend only using a relay to power just about anything where the alternative is to pass the power through the starter button.
 

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as Mr. Vinish said.

Honda uses a 3 amp switch to handle a 35 watt light... and adding anything else to that switch is asking for failure.

50 years fixing owners errors.

in 2005, I added a headlight relay to my 05 VTX... and I do not run anything extra...

18 years of starter switch failures ... does say something.. to those that can read.
 
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