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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to check my valve clearances. I haven't check vales in about 30 years, so I'm following the manual very carefully.

I'm to the part where I need to get the psiton at TDC. The manual says "Turn the crankshaft to line up the FT mark blah blah...".

So, how exactly do I turn the crankshaft?

:confused:

If someone would tell me (after you stop launghing is okay), I'd really appreciate it.
 

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I hope this will make things easier.

Poison has an excellent right up procedure on doing the valve adjustment.
http://vtx1300tips.com/Valveadjustingbypoision.pdf
And I would also recommend adding and doing it my way to it.
Donut's Way.
Remember that each person with a feeler gauge may have a little different feeling or opinion with a gauge. When you make the adjustment make sure the gauge is not real long and that it is bent about 1/2 inch in from the end so it doesn't touch the rim around the valve adjusting opening the cant be on an angle. If the gauge has to much friction on it then it will be tight. You should have a hard time inserting the next size larger gauge in. I always check with three gauges. One above and one below the proper gauge.
Remember you will always here light ticking due to the gap that you set in the valve. No ticking I would be worried light ticking OK loud ticking the valves is too loose.
Once you set the valves Don't touch the 4mm or the 10mm nut. Just rotate the engine and then only touch and tighten the 10mm. Don't touch the 4mm.
Then rotate the engine and recheck everything at the FT point (for front) and RT (for rear).
Also tie some string to the gauges - you don't want to drop anything in there as some have done.

*********************************************************
Donut's Way.
Doug

Here is the wrench you will need to make it easier.

Sears/Kmart
Craftsman Professional 10 x 11mm Full Polish Deep Offset Wrench, 12 pt. Box End
Part number 44360.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944360000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=

Donut/Doug:patriot:
 

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Donut's way to get proper clearances works fantastically. He is a valuable resource to have in your corner. Definitely one of the few people that I let advise me on mechanics. ;)

17mm over the crankshaft bolt. Rotate it forward/toward the front of the bike. When Dangler taught me, we had a one spark plug out of each head. Place your thumb/finger over the spark plug hole. Rotate the shaft until it has created a vacuum with your finger. Remove your finger. You will hear/feel the pressure release. That means you are at the proper point of the stroke to check for TDC. Then get a flash light and read the marks up inside the hole where the crankshaft bolt is. One is for the Front TDC. One is for the Rear TDC. (Make sure you are using the proper mark for front and rear.) Continue to rotate the 17mm bolt until the marks on the plate line up with the mark on the case. (You'll know what mark I'm talking about when you look up in there.) I apologize for not having the proper terminology. I am not a bike mechanic...just a do it yourself-er. ;)

Good luck! Don't forget to give us a full report when your done!
 

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The way I was taught to rotate to the correct position with my first gen Magna was to put it on the center stand, then in 6th gear and rotate rear wheel until the crank is in the correct position... I haven't had to adjust the valves yet on my X so I don't know if this would work on an X as well... I wonder if anyone has tried it?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That Poison write-up did help a bit. And I am able to position the crank now. Next, I need to figure out what size those big exhaust valve adjusting hole bolts are. The olargest metric I have is 17mm.

Looks like 23mm. Hmmm... $15 at Sears. Off I go.
 

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That Poison write-up did help a bit. And I am able to position the crank now. Next, I need to figure out what size those big exhaust valve adjusting hole bolts are. The olargest metric I have is 17mm.

Looks like 23mm. Hmmm... $15 at Sears. Off I go.

I have a box end wrench that fits perfectly for that big one. Come on over! I'll let you barrow it. ;)

Unfortunately...it does not have the size stamped on it anywhere. (Just went out and looked.)
 

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When you put the cap back on on the cover be very careful you don't over tighten it because I have seen some in the past that actually snapped/broke the whole nut off in the housing around the nut on the cover.

Donut/Doug
:patriot:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That valve cover bolt is supposed to be 24mm. At least I'm assuming it is. The fit of a craftsman wrench to the bolt was kind of sloppy. I used a 15/16" I had in my toolbox instead and it fit perfectly.

Thanks for the tips on the crank. I've got three sets of valvle done. Just the intake on the back cyclinder left. Do that tomorrow.

My exhaust valves were a little tight both front and rear, but the intake on the front was spot on.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I am learning so much from this job. I'll write it all up when I'm done, but so far...

1. Valves take a while. Make time for it. In my case, 9 days and running. :rolleyes:
2. Don't use the craftsmen pen-knife feeler gauge set. Instead, use McMaster-Carr 12" feelers.
3. I think the motion pro valve adjusting tools will be worth it. I'll know for sure in a few days.
4. Leave the feelers in while doing the adjustment.
5. Replace the valve cover o-rings. They are too cheap and too hard to reach to mess with it. And mine were pretty mashed after 13K miles.
6. Despite the shop manual, remove the right front head shroud, left rear head shroud, and the air filter aseembly in addition to the Pair valve.
7. It's also a good time to change your coolant, so remove the tubing nightmare over the rear cyclinder intake valve cover.
8. Plugs look different between cylinders? Don;t panic and read http://vtxcafe.com/showthread.php?t=51846
9. If you choose to ignore #3, you'll find it's practically impossible to find a 4mm wrench for under $20. So, go RC. The turnbuckles on my Team Associated truck are 4mm and the TA wrench costs $3 for partsassociated online.

More to come, I'm sure. :)
 

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The way I was taught to rotate to the correct position with my first gen Magna was to put it on the center stand, then in 6th gear and rotate rear wheel until the crank is in the correct position... I haven't had to adjust the valves yet on my X so I don't know if this would work on an X as well... I wonder if anyone has tried it?

yes that the way i was taugh and it works on the X but it to hard to explain with out showing some one:coffee:
 

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One thing I would add is a little anti-seize on the threads of the exhaust valve plug caps, and the access cover for the timing marks will make it easier on you next time.
 

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yes that the way i was taugh and it works on the X but it to hard to explain with out showing some one:coffee:

For those who may be wondering who this Dangler fella is:
Dangler might only have 40 posts to his name, but he taught me how to do valves. You've never met a more patient, knowledgeable teacher. Wonderful guy right there!. :cheers: Listen to what he has to offer whenever he feels the need to chime in here. :)
 

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yes that the way i was taugh and it works on the X but it to hard to explain with out showing some one:coffee:
Oh ok. I didn't know if 5th gear is geared too low to turn the engine. I'm coming up on adjusting my valves and will save myself from buying any extra tools. Thanks for confirming!
 

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No offense, it just seems it would be easier to turn the crank with a wrench & see where the marks line up as opposed to turning the wheel & having to stop and look where the crank is at...just sayin'
 

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Well, I would first save money by not buying that wrench and a trip to the hardware store. Second, the first gen Magna's don't have to have the crank lined up exactly. Just give the valves some slack by moving the camshaft lobes from putting pressure on the valves. I haven't adjusted the valves on my X yet, but I would assume that it isn't that different.
 

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To properly check/adjust the valves, the crank HAS to be TDC(FT) for the intake, and RT for the exhaust, why would you deviate from the service manual specs?
 

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Again, I haven't adjusted the valves on my X yet so I haven't checked into the whole procedure. However, I was taught to check the valves on my Magna by folks who are better than any service manual. They have ridden the first gen Magnas and Sabres since their debut. One guy has over 200k on his odometer. I'll trust him and follow his instruction over a manual anyday. By the way, doesn't manual say not to deviate from the stock tire size... I wonder what warning would have been put in the service manual to discourage folks from putting a CT on the rear!
 

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For those who may be wondering who this Dangler fella is:
Dangler might only have 40 posts to his name, but he taught me how to do valves. You've never met a more patient, knowledgeable teacher. Wonderful guy right there!. :cheers: Listen to what he has to offer whenever he feels the need to chime in here. :)
And he brings some very tasty antelope sausage to tech sessions!!!...:mosh:

If you choose to ignore #3, you'll find it's practically impossible to find a 4mm wrench for under $20....
Not impossible...You just gotta look in the right place...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-CRAFTSMAN-Tools-10pcs-IGNITION-Metric-Wrench-Set-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem20b54b6873QQitemZ140480571507QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

10 piece Craftsman ignition wrench set with the 4mm for about $10...That's how I got mine....:cool:
 
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