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GreatLakesRoadRiders.org
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Discussion Starter #1
My brake line was leaking where it connects to the rear caliper (I have the 1800 caliper on my 1300), so I tightened it up some more. I think I wrenched it too much, because instead of getting harder to tighten at a certain point, it got easier. I see there is still a slight fluid leak even now.

I have been told that the caliper, since it's aluminum, will strip before the banjo bolt strips, so I think I'm screwed (both literally and figuratively)?

Anybody know a source for an affordable, used 1800 rear caliper? The one I have now I bought from a friend who converted his bike to a trike, and nobody else around seems to have one. I assume all of them get snatched up by people like me, who do the Foots Mod on their 1300, so they are hard to find?
 

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Yep, sounds like you stripped it out. Yes, the aluminum will give before the steel does. There is one thing you can do to repair the caliper and that is retap the caliper and use a reduver bushing back down to the banjo bolt thread size. You will need to find the reducer bushing first so you will know what size tap to buy. I did a little search and found some places to buy the bushing and you can probably find a bolt place locally that will have some or order them for you.

http://www.thefind.com/hardware/info-metric-bushings

http://www.toolcentral.com/ecommerce.php/mode/view/cat/379
 

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GreatLakesRoadRiders.org
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1,410 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Mike! I have not done anything like this (taps, etc.) before -- w/ drilling into the caliper, this will create metal shavings and they will get into the brake fluid area. I assume I will need to flush the caliper out somehow, to get all the shavings out of the internals?
 

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Thanks Mike! I have not done anything like this (taps, etc.) before -- w/ drilling into the caliper, this will create metal shavings and they will get into the brake fluid area. I assume I will need to flush the caliper out somehow, to get all the shavings out of the internals?
You will need to remove the caliper to do this. If you can find a Standard to Metric bushing you should be able to just tap out the caliper and not drill. Yes there will be some shaving but they should not enter the piston area. You can always put something in the bottom to keep anything from entering the piston area but that holes is actually pretty small. If you are just tapping and not drilling the shavings will not be a problem. IF there is a Standard to Metric thread bushing it will only be slightly larger and just tapping is all that is necessary. Not hard to do and probably under $20-30 for a bushing and tap tools.
 
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