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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to clean my carb. I am running with the choke on (bike was sitting for a long time before I bought it). I feel I need to clean the carb out first and get it running with out choke first. Then what do I do next? I know (from reading here :)), that you should do one thing at a time... So do I do the SCAR mod first and then PAIR Valve mod next? Does it matter? Am I missing a mod or step here? Thanks for your patients with a newbie. I can not find the thread that spelled out these steps for the life of me.

Thanks
 

· Darkside Pastor & Addict
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First thing is to change your plugs. They are toast. Then do not use the choke!!! Then see if the problem can be solved with some fresh gas and some seafoam. If not then you may have to clean out your carb. Depends on how long it was sitting. However, these are good things to start with.

Pdave
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When I bought it this spring, I changed the plugs, ran seafoam thru it etc. I have run at least 3 tanks of sea foam all ready this summer. It helped, but did not solved the fact I need the choke to run. So I am pretty sure I need to clean the carb, unless.... would new plugs now make a difference with the choke? I would not think it would, but I could be wrong :)
 

· Darkside Pastor & Addict
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When I bought it this spring, I changed the plugs, ran seafoam thru it etc. I have run at least 3 tanks of sea foam all ready this summer. It helped, but did not solved the fact I need the choke to run. So I am pretty sure I need to clean the carb, unless.... would new plugs now make a difference with the choke? I would not think it would, but I could be wrong :)
You probably do need to clean the carb. You will want to put new plugs in again as well. (you may get away with cleaning them but at only a couple of bucks a piece, just buy new). Once the carb is cleaned you should be good to go. Then you can just use the seafoam on a preventive maintenance schedule. Good luck.

Pdave:patriot:
 

· Dragon Slayer
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If you still need the choke to run, the plugs are toast, change 'em again, gap to spec & the need for choke should go away. If not, then get into the carb for a good cleaning, as the jets may be clogged.
 

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A/F screw?

Hey guys..
+1 on what has been said.
and in addition to?

If the bike is stock he may want to adjust the A/F screw 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns out.

This can be done with either the tool or installed A/F screw from glen's...
http://www.glensvtxgarage.com/

I have the tool & it works great but a lot of guys just install the permanent adjuster.


And to finish answering your question...
Yes you want to get the bike running without the choke first!
If you are running a stock air box you *should* not need to scar mod. ( cutting the tip under the needle retainer is always a good idea as it gives the needle more room to move & will not wear your emulsion tube.
If you are running stock pipes with the baffles intact you may or may not want to remove the Pair as they tend to effect open pipes more than stock ones.
 

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I also had a problem with always needing the choke, it was suggested that I play with my idle and it worked amazing. I haven't used the choke since
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Many have listened to the VTX idle and dropped it down thinking it was high then WOW, it stalls without the choke!!! HEH!!!! a VTX idles HIGH, around 900 RPMs, leave it up there or make sure it is up there; if it lopes on idle it is too low!
 

· His Excellency
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Cleaning the carb should get you running again. Definately change the plugs as I am sure they are fouled pretty bad. If you are running the stock airbox and pipes i don't think you should do the scar mod. I think I would go ahead with the pair valve removal and adjust the A/F screw out to 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns and you should be able to stop using the choke.

Is your bike Titanium? You wouldn't want to swap for some chrome side covers would you? Just thought I would ask.
 

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hey guys, always amazed at all the get info and help out here

after reading through all this i think i have finally decided what tweaks to make to my 2003 vtx 1300, bought last year w/ only 485 miles on it.

i plan on blocking the pair valve, adding k&n filter, glens perm a/f, decap air box, scar mod w/ 2 shims then decide on what pipes tp get (want that deep throaty sound)

any thoughts or advice you huys can offer would be greatly appriciated
 

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spend some time reading this post it has everything you are going to need to do in it.
http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php?t=64314

I need to clean my carb. I am running with the choke on (bike was sitting for a long time before I bought it). I feel I need to clean the carb out first and get it running with out choke first. Then what do I do next? I know (from reading here :)), that you should do one thing at a time... So do I do the SCAR mod first and then PAIR Valve mod next? Does it matter? Am I missing a mod or step here? Thanks for your patients with a newbie. I can not find the thread that spelled out these steps for the life of me.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
update: New plugs and no choke. She would not stay started but then once warm, it would run at idle (really bad) and but quit when given gas. So I will try to get to cleaning the carb this weekend :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Update again: :)
I read the forums and write-ups and watched videos and finally dove into the carb! First time for everything. I did the "SCAR" mod first; then cleaned the float, the jets, A/F screw and everything else I could get at without taking the carb off. Put it all back together and it would not start :banghead:, so I stepped back and :hmm2:for a minute then :idea: it hit me, YOU MUST TURN ON THE GAS to make it run!!!!! :eek:

So needless to say, IT RUNS and STARTS without the choke! Thanks for all the clear write up and videos out their!!!

One question, I did not put a washer on the needle and I turned a/f 2.5 turns. Will it run better with a washer or just leave it for a bit and see how it runs?
 

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get it nice and warmed up then roll on the throttle from different rpm areas starting at around 1500 rpm if there is a hickup or hesitation at all you would need to add a shim to the needle point per the write up.
 
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