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A while ago I broke off a bolt in the shock structure on the right side. I have ordered parts #2, 3, 6, 7,& 10. No where can I find reference to part #2. The Honda Manual does not even show you this part. How do I get it out? The right hand one is where the bolt broke off, it has been drilled out, leaving it stressed, my reason for replacing it.
Can anyone help?
 

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I thought that the inside hole of part #2 has a hexagonal shape that a larger Allen wrench will fit into for turning it.
 
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View attachment 240464
A while ago I broke off a bolt in the shock structure on the right side. I have ordered parts #2, 3, 6, 7,& 10. No where can I find reference to part #2. The Honda Manual does not even show you this part. How do I get it out? The right hand one is where the bolt broke off, it has been drilled out, leaving it stressed, my reason for replacing it.
Can anyone help?
I thought that the inside hole of part #2 has a hexagonal shape that a larger Allen wrench will fit into for turning it.

She said bolt had been drilled out, perhaps the flats on the inside were drilled off as well?!
 

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I could easily be wrong but I understood her to mean that on one side of the bike this part had been drilled out and was removed/gone. It is the other, so far untouched, side about which she is inquiring.
 

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View attachment 240464
A while ago I broke off a bolt in the shock structure on the right side. I have ordered parts #2, 3, 6, 7,& 10. No where can I find reference to part #2. The Honda Manual does not even show you this part. How do I get it out? The right hand one is where the bolt broke off, it has been drilled out, leaving it stressed, my reason for replacing it.
Can anyone help?
2 things.
1. Where are you located as members commonly help those in close proximity fix the problem in person?
2. Can you post a picture of the bolt so those trying to help can see exactly what you need without guessing?

This will help us help you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
2 things.
1. Where are you located as members commonly help those in close proximity fix the problem in person?
2. Can you post a picture of the bolt so those trying to help can see exactly what you need without guessing?

This will help us help you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I am in Las Vegas, NV. I am still waiting on the new parts to come in. Some of them had to come from American Honda.
I did not break it down past removing the shock last time I worked with it. Tried to drill out the broken bolt, had to get a friend with muscles even he broke two drills and one of the back out drills, had to take it to a shop finally. I did not want to take it apart until the parts came so I am not sure what they finally did, there was a bolt in it, it worked. I am sorry to say I didn't go past that answer.
As soon as the parts come in I will take pictures and post.
Thanks for all of the help.
 

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I thought that the inside hole of part #2 has a hexagonal shape that a larger Allen wrench will fit into for turning it.
I am getting a head of things. The parts won't be here till the end of the week, I am a planner. ;) I was hoping one of you that work on your bike all of the time might know. I live in a mobile home park...no garage, so I don't do a lot of inside wrench work, blowing dust. I am lowering the bike with the Progressive 11.5" shocks and fork springs. The shocks I can do, the forks probably not.
Thanks for your help.
 

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You can loosen the pinch clamps on your trees and move the forks up. As long as they are both equal and it doesn't bottom out on the fender.
 

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I have seen the front end of VTX bikes lowered by 2" just by allowing the front forks to move up in the triple tree braces.
 
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I have seen the front end of VTX bikes lowered by 2" just by allowing the front forks to move up in the triple tree braces.
No expense modification!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have seen the front end of VTX bikes lowered by 2" just by allowing the front forks to move up in the triple tree braces.
Wish I had checked here first then. The fork kit, 11.5" springs to lower the front end was expensive. I was told the front was a bit loose so I decided to replace the springs. I need to go to youtube and watch how to tie down the bike. I had to have it towed, battery died and not one of the local "service" companies would get, bring a battery and install it. i guess they make more money towing it. All I can say is 2020.
 

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Linda, Are you not able to replace the battery yourself? That is about the simplest job that can be done.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Linda, Are you not able to replace the battery yourself? That is about the simplest job that can be done.
I was camping at Cedar Breaks, UT, at Point Supreme Campground. The nearest town is 22 miles away. None of the tow companies would do a service run and bring me a battery. Tow me to the nearest place with a battery yes. Guess they make more money for the tow.
I took out the old one and put the new one in. I do the light stuff , It needs plugs and I will try that when I am putting the shocks on. Youtube is the bomb. lol
 

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Ahh, that makes complete sense. You had no transportation to an auto parts store. Glad you got it running. When you put the plugs in, make sure that you thread the plugs into their holes by hand. Given the depth of the "pockets" into which the plug threads are set, you will likely have to put a sparkplug socket on a long socket extension. That is fine but do NOT initially turn the socket extension with the socket wrench. Grasp the extension by hand and turn it by hand as far as you can. This should be a lot or turning by hand and then just cinch up the last bit using the socket. This method will assure that you do not cross thread the sparkplugs in their threaded holes since you could not turn them by hand if they were cross-threaded. Before insertion, put a little anti-seize on the threads of the sparkplugs. Before putting on the sparkplug electrical connections, inspect these and the rubber boots. Remove any corrosion and make sure there are no tears in the rubber boots. Put a small dab of dielectric grease on the electrical connector before attaching it (inside the boot) to the end of the sparkplug.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
I am in Las Vegas, NV. I am still waiting on the new parts to come in. Some of them had to come from American Honda.
I did not break it down past removing the shock last time I worked with it. Tried to drill out the broken bolt, had to get a friend with muscles even he broke two drills and one of the back out drills, had to take it to a shop finally. I did not want to take it apart until the parts came so I am not sure what they finally did, there was a bolt in it, it worked. I am sorry to say I didn't go past that answer.
As soon as the parts come in I will take pictures and post.
Thanks for all of the help.
The parts got her for my shock redo. This is a very large hex head. Thanks for the help.
240505
 

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The large hex head is used to install this "stud". Then, inside the hex opening is a threaded area into which the shock retainer bolt screws.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The large hex head is used to install this "stud". Then, inside the hex opening is a threaded area into which the shock retainer bolt screws.
[/QUOTE

The problem is it is going to take hydraulics to get the thing out. I no longer have access to either the compressor or tools. This has turned in to a 2020 joke. lol Can I remove both shocks at the same time? I am putting on an 11.5" set. Maybe I just need a nap.
 

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Why will it "take hydraulics to get the thing out"? I assume you are talking about the stud with the hex head on the inside. Don't you just put in a large Allen wrench and turn it? If it was inserted using loctite, hit the head with a propane torch for a little bit (maybe 15-30 seconds) to soften the loctite before turning. If you need it, get a small diameter pipe to go around the other end of the Allen to act as a cheater bar.

No, you should only remove one shock at a time unless you have the bike jacked up off the ground and another jack under the rear wheel to move it up and down to align the shock mounting points to the length of the unstretched new shock. Even when removing just one shock at a time, it may take someone lifting or pushing down on the rear tail of the bike to align the holes to mount the new shocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Why will it "take hydraulics to get the thing out"? I assume you are talking about the stud with the hex head on the inside. Don't you just put in a large Allen wrench and turn it? If it was inserted using loctite, hit the head with a propane torch for a little bit (maybe 15-30 seconds) to soften the loctite before turning. If you need it, get a small diameter pipe to go around the other end of the Allen to act as a cheater bar.

No, you should only remove one shock at a time unless you have the bike jacked up off the ground and another jack under the rear wheel to move it up and down to align the shock mounting points to the length of the unstretched new shock. Even when removing just one shock at a time, it may take someone lifting or pushing down on the rear tail of the bike to align the holes to mount the new shocks.
I put the 10mm hex in the hole and tried taking a hammer to it when it wouldn't move. .hahaha. Didn't even move it. Maybe a little WD40?

The shocks are shorter than the old ones. The bike is on a bike jack. Looks like I need something to keep the rear wheel up or make it adjustable. How about a ratchet strap?
Thanks for all of the help.
 

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A ratchet strap might work but be careful not to pull or knock the bike off the jack. It would be better to put the bike on a stand and only use the jack to raise and lower the bike to get it on and off the stand. There are plans here on the Cafe for a very sturdy stand made from some 2x4 lumber, nails, and screws. Probably $20 of materials.

A hammer is not a good way to try to move that bolt. The sharp blow might break something. I recommend using the Allen wrench with a cheater bar or pipe to get the leverage needed. Of course, do not knock or pull the bike off the jack or stand. Some penetrating oil/lube and then some heat from a propane torch on the reluctant part might break it free.
 
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