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Discussion Starter #1
I've been searching these forums and those at VTXOA for some clear explanation regarding just how much I need to remove in order to install Glen's Permanent A/F Screw. The instructions provided with the hardware mention removing the air box, but not the carb (and they don't show anything other than what it will look like when finished). I'm a novice at things like this but willing to try (I installed a Triple Whammy, Screaming Banshee and USB/12 v handlebar port today - hey, it's a snow day!).

Anyhow, I've got the air box hanging by the tubes at this point. How much more needs to be removed? I read elsewhere that the tubes on the back side of the air box are hard to get reconnected when putting it back together. Does the air box need to be completely removed? And, where exactly does the screw go once it's removed? I saw a photo in another post with the screw installed, but it was after the carb had been removed and it was a little unclear of the actual location as it was difficult to get some perspective. I've also checked Youtube, too, to see if anyone had any install instructions out there.

Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
 

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Fastest Red Club Member
2007 VTX 1300R, Indianapolis
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You have to completely remove air box.

For that you also need to have the tank off unless you've decaped airbox.

Follow bassdude guide for that.
http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php/33679-Gas-tank-removal-how-to-(with-pics)

Once you get airbox and tank off then you just unscrew the old screw making sure you get all the parts out.
Then install glen's screw.

You do not have to remove the carb from the bike for anything other than doing a complete cleaning of it.
Even jet changes are done with carb on the bike.

This might help??
The A/F screw is on the back side of carb when your looking at it with the airbox removed.
Behind the bowl.



http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php/79735-Pictures-of-a-1300-carb
 

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Discussion Starter #3
LOL, "just" unscrew the old screw. My fat fingers need to go on a diet! I'm not sure how I'm gonna reach up in there. It's starting to look like I need to pull the carb loose! Yikes. :hmm2:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK! I got the screw installed. Now, any sugestions for how to get the larger hose back on the air box? There's almost no excess in mine and I'm having a deal of a time getting it. Is there a trick???
 

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That Just Happened!
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OK! I got the screw installed. Now, any sugestions for how to get the larger hose back on the air box? There's almost no excess in mine and I'm having a deal of a time getting it. Is there a trick???
Pair valve block off plates would eliminate that problem in the future.

Right now......
I would use needle nose pilers to grip the hose about 1 inch from the end and just pop it in.


?BuYA!
 

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Fastest Red Club Member
2007 VTX 1300R, Indianapolis
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Be absolutely sure your crankcase breather hose has no kinks in it to cause blockage.
If it gets blocked you'll blow seal on left side of bike.
trkrJeff knows all about this. lol

Think it was donut that mentioned easy test for that.
Take out your dipstick and cover hole with Kleenex not tight just lay it there.
With airbox cover off and filter out use clean drinking straw and blow into hole.
Kleenex should blow off.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks! Got the hoses back on and took it for a ride. Was interesting to see I didn't even have to choke it (even with it being cold here and my having not ridden in a few days).

:icon_conf I did have some deceleration pop at times (though not every time). Is that due to the A/F screw needing some sort of adjustment - (I did the recommended 2 1/2 turns) or was it just coincidence due to the bike being cold? If it is due to the screw needing some adjustment, what direction would I adjust it?

Thanks in Advance!
 

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Fastest Red Club Member
2007 VTX 1300R, Indianapolis
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Deceleration pop could be PAIR valve if you still have that on the bike.
 

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Be absolutely sure your crankcase breather hose has no kinks in it to cause blockage.
If it gets blocked you'll blow seal on left side of bike.
trkrJeff knows all about this. lol

Think it was donut that mentioned easy test for that.
Take out your dipstick and cover hole with Kleenex not tight just lay it there.
With airbox cover off and filter out use clean drinking straw and blow into hole.
Kleenex should blow off.
Where is the crankcase breather hose? Is that connected to the air box?
 

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You have to completely remove air box.

For that you also need to have the tank off unless you've decaped airbox.

Follow bassdude guide for that.
http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php/33679-Gas-tank-removal-how-to-(with-pics)

Once you get airbox and tank off then you just unscrew the old screw making sure you get all the parts out.
Then install glen's screw.

You do not have to remove the carb from the bike for anything other than doing a complete cleaning of it.
Even jet changes are done with carb on the bike.

This might help??
The A/F screw is on the back side of carb when your looking at it with the airbox removed.
Behind the bowl.



Pictures of a 1300 carb
Is the a/f screw on the air box side of the bike?
 

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You have to completely remove air box.

For that you also need to have the tank off unless you've decaped airbox.

Follow bassdude guide for that.
http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php/33679-Gas-tank-removal-how-to-(with-pics)

Once you get airbox and tank off then you just unscrew the old screw making sure you get all the parts out.
Then install glen's screw.

You do not have to remove the carb from the bike for anything other than doing a complete cleaning of it.
Even jet changes are done with carb on the bike.

This might help??
The A/F screw is on the back side of carb when your looking at it with the airbox removed.
Behind the bowl.



Pictures of a 1300 carb
Is the a/f screw on the air box side of the bike?
 

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The crankcase breather hose connects from the engine to the back of the airbox. The A/F screw is on the air box side of the bike. It is a tiny little screw with a head in the shape of a capital letter D. It is on the bottom of the carburetor. Do NOT confuse the idle adjustment knob with the A/F screw. The idle adjustment knob hangs down from the carb about 8 inches and ends in a black head that has ribs on it. It hangs right below the air box and can be accessed without removing anything from the bike. The stock A/F screw is also mounted in the carb but does not stick out. It can only be accessed by removing the air box, removing the carb from its rubber boot or at least loosening it enough to bend the bottom of the carb outward, and then the A/F screw must be turned with a special D-shaped tool.
 

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The crankcase breather hose connects from the engine to the back of the airbox. The A/F screw is on the air box side of the bike. It is a tiny little screw with a head in the shape of a capital letter D. It is on the bottom of the carburetor. Do NOT confuse the idle adjustment knob with the A/F screw. The idle adjustment knob hangs down from the carb about 8 inches and ends in a black head that has ribs on it. It hangs right below the air box and can be accessed without removing anything from the bike. The stock A/F screw is also mounted in the carb but does not stick out. It can only be accessed by removing the air box, removing the carb from its rubber boot or at least loosening it enough to bend the bottom of the carb outward, and then the A/F screw must be turned with a special D-shaped tool.
Thank you.
 

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If you do buy Glen's permanent A/F screw, this replaces the stock A/F screw. It has a long handle that hangs down to the same place the black ribbed idle adjustment screw is located.
 

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OK! I got the screw installed. Now, any sugestions for how to get the larger hose back on the air box? There's almost no excess in mine and I'm having a deal of a time getting it. Is there a trick???
YES, it's called "Plate Mod".... No more large hose.
 

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I ordered the AF screw from Glen it hasn't come in yet I need to know where the O-ring should be that I have to take out before I can put this one in and what else should have to come out of the whole
 

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On the tip of the stock A/F screw are the following (listed in order from closest to carb to furthest from carb): O-ring, metal washer, spring. The new A/F screw will come with new parts (o-ring, metal washer, and spring) so you do not reuse the old ones. However, make sure that all three parts come out with the removal of the stock A/F screw.
 
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