[LawrenceVTX]

Yesterday my bike wouldn't start after riding it around town. It had all the classic symptoms of a dead battery (click click click click) and it was the original that came with the bike (it's a 2003 1300S). It had done something similar in November, but I tightened up the connections and it seemed to get better. Occasionally it would skip a little when starting it, which would reset my trip odometer.

So I went to my local battery store and picked up a new one. I put it in the bike and now it won't start. :banghead: Battery has lots of charge, but it seems like it won't make it past the compression stroke.

Is this a starter or solenoid issue? If so, is there a way to test it?

Help!

 

[LawrenceVTX]

Should've dug deeper in the forums. Found the problem was likely the starter switch. Cleaned and lubed it and bike fired right up.

Glad I didn't take the starter apart.

 

[wayne]

Good you got it, I was reading and was going to say, to bad you dont live closer, I have a extra starter to try.

Glad you got it going.

 

[Donut]

First glad you found the problem. Did you stretch the little (not the big) spring a little.
Second there is no solenoid on the VTX.

 

[doug48317]

Second there is no solenoid on the VTX.

Um yes there is :bleh:
The solenoid/relay is behind the right side cover towards the bottom of the battery. It's just an external one just like the old Fords had, they can and do go bad at times so it wouldn't be out of the question to check this along with the starter switch.

 

[Donut]

Um yes there is :bleh:
The solenoid/relay is behind the right side cover towards the bottom of the battery. It's just an external one just like the old Fords had, they can and do go bad at times so it wouldn't be out of the question to check this along with the starter switch.

A solenoid engages the starter and spins the starter which throws the gear forward to engage like in old cars - it only has a relay. :bleh: lol

 

[doug48317]

A solenoid engages the starter and spins the starter which throws the gear forward to engage like in old cars - it only has a relay. :bleh: lol

Sorry to disagree with the Donut but... call it what you'd like they are listed under either name when you go looking for one in a parts finch, so for someone who might not be sure about the technicalities it can be found by just looking up a starter solenoid.

Here's just a few from a quick 1 page search :icon_susp :bleh:
Honda's:
http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Honda/VTX_1300_S3/03/picture/Starter_Solenoid/

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=honda+starter+solenoid&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_sop=12

http://www.stuff4bikes.co.uk/starter-solenoid-relay-honda-vtx1300-s-4-03-04-15835-p.asp

Older Ford's:
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000051k~Z5Z5Z5AACCP~P17.95~~~~~~0000051z~F

http://www.partstrain.com/store/det...&ptmofordbronco19661978motorcraftmisw3175stso

http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-starter-relay-8593.html

 

[Donut]

Sorry to disagree with the Donut but... call it what you'd like they are listed under either name when you go looking for one in a parts finch, so for someone who might not be sure about the technicalities it can be found by just looking up a starter solenoid.

Here's just a few from a quick 1 page search :icon_susp :bleh:
Honda's:
http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/Honda/VTX_1300_S3/03/picture/Starter_Solenoid/

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=honda+starter+solenoid&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_sop=12

http://www.stuff4bikes.co.uk/starter-solenoid-relay-honda-vtx1300-s-4-03-04-15835-p.asp

Older Ford's:
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000051k~Z5Z5Z5AACCP~P17.95~~~~~~0000051z~F

http://www.partstrain.com/store/det...&ptmofordbronco19661978motorcraftmisw3175stso

http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-starter-relay-8593.html

If you go to this site and in the Search on the left side and type in Starter Relay - when it pops up the top two on the left is exactly the same relay that is behind the right rear cover.
http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/...ry=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=2004&fveh=4092

All it is is a dang relay with a fuse. lol

 

[doug48317]

If you go to this site and in the Search on the left side and type in Starter Relay - when it pops up the top two on the left is exactly the same relay that is behind the right rear cover.

All it is is a dang relay with a fuse. lol

Sorry to point out your not always right but it's ok... you can let it go now, I've already shown they can be found under both names :banghead:

solenoid [ˈsəʊlɪˌnɔɪd]
1. (Electronics) a coil of wire, usually cylindrical, in which a magnetic field is set up by passing a current through it

2. (Electronics) a coil of wire, partially surrounding an iron core, that is made to move inside the coil by the magnetic field set up by a current: used to convert electrical to mechanical energy, as in the operation of a switch

3. (Engineering / Automotive Engineering) such a device used as a relay, as in a motor vehicle for connecting the battery directly to the starter motor when activated by the ignition switch[from French solénoïde, from Greek sōlēn a pipe, tube]
solenoidal adj
solenoidally adv
Collins English Dictionary – Complete and Unabridged © HarperCollins Publishers 1991, 1994, 1998, 2000, 2003

 

[wayne]

2 of them on the web site, look like a old starter solenoid off of a few fords that I had way back.

Dont know why anyone would get into a pissing match over that part.k
I is called either name, some call hwy. bars and some call them crash bars.

 

[LawrenceVTX]

Donut-I stretched the spring out a little bit which made it tricky getting back together after lubing up with vasoline, but definitely works a lot better now.

 

[Donut]

Donut-I stretched the spring out a little bit which made it tricky getting back together after lubing up with vasoline, but definitely works a lot better now.

OK sounds good - let me know if you have any futures problems - But you probably wont.

Doug

 

[LawrenceVTX]

Donut - I adjusted my valves and did the pair removal last weekend. When I got on the bike the next day, it acted like the starter switch was dirty again. I took it apart and cleaned it just to find that it looked great. I pulled the seat and checked the battery connections and found the positive side was loose. I charged the battery and things were back to normal. I could have sworn I torqued that thing down pretty good. Do these bikes vibrate that much, or do I just need to be more conscientious of how tight I wrench things?

PS-At what point do you get used to the valve clattering?

 

[Charlie D]

get some stainless lock washers for the battery bolts.

Valve clatter is a time thing and you get used to it then one day you say it is awful quiet I better adjust them again.

 

[Donut]

get some stainless lock washers for the battery bolts.

Valve clatter is a time thing and you get used to it then one day you say it is awful quiet I better adjust them again.

I agree with Charlie D on the lock washers. But be careful and don't be superman on tightening them up because you can actually pull the nut up threw the led mount they are in and destroy the battery.
Doug

 

[LawrenceVTX]

Thank you guys, I really do appreciate all the help with this.

 

[LawrenceVTX]

NOW what!

After going back and re-doing my front valve adjustment, put the bike back together and ......just like before.........stops short of the compression stroke.

I pulled the battery and checked the voltage (read 12.5Volts DC). Tried to jump the relay by pulling the rubber cover down and jumping the two wires, but it threw sparks and freaked me out a little. I know the switch is probably not the culprit, and both the terminals are tight, any ideas? I'm almost to the point of taking it to the mechanic.

 

[Donut]

Sounds like the battery is week and doesn't have enough amps to turn it over. You can have 12.5 volts on a bad battery with a cell bad and will not have enough to turn the starter over.
I bought a new battery last summer (wallyworld) and kept it in a battery tender ( not a charger) all winter. I had to replace it again last week. This time I got a Sears Dihard. But when I got it before they had a chance to put the cover on over the plates I looked inside and noticed that the plates were showing.:hmm2::hmm2:So I had them put the proper amount of acid in it so they covered the plates.
Now when you buy a new battery you have to add the acid so make sure that they give you enough. The dispenser that came with the battery didn't have enough in it.
I have a 1/2 gallon of battery acid in my garage at home for this purpose.
Doug

 

[Sixgun]

After going back and re-doing my front valve adjustment, put the bike back together and ......just like before.........stops short of the compression stroke.

I pulled the battery and checked the voltage (read 12.5Volts DC). Tried to jump the relay by pulling the rubber cover down and jumping the two wires, but it threw sparks and freaked me out a little. I know the switch is probably not the culprit, and both the terminals are tight, any ideas? I'm almost to the point of taking it to the mechanic.

My problem was similar to yours and it turned out to be my battery that was only 1.5 months old. My bad battery showed 12.5 volts, but when I hit the starter button, it dropped to 4 or 5 volts. My starter wouldn't even engage at all.

The place I bought the battery from said the internal welds were bad although it read 12.5 volts. Try a new battery.

FWIW, I tried to jump the solenoid as well and mine sparked a lot. Freaked me out, too.

 

[LawrenceVTX]

I brought my battery to work. I have the luxury of a large maintenance shop with all kinds of goodies. We hooked my battery up to the mega-fancy, holy crap this thing is huge Dayton charger and it tested fine. I guess my next try is the starter relay?

Thoughts would be appreciated.