[AZVTX'er]

Ok guy's, I'm pullin my hair out. I need help. I put the Cobra Speedster longs and K&N replacement filter on the bike (1300 R). Last week I put the Dynojet Jet kit in with the new needle, spring and 195 DG jet. Went third slot from the top on the shim for the needle. 2.5 turns out on the A/F. On the initial ride, I had some hesitation on the first quarter throttle (started easilly, top end great). Took it to a friend who had a A/F meeter and it was running way fat. 400 hydrocarbons and 9.5 on carbon monoxide (5 and under is passing emissions here in AZ). So, took everything back down and went to 2nd position from the top on the needle and half turn in on the A/F. Still falls on it's face during the first quarter throttle only under load. :hmm2: Can anyone give some assistance? Am I not getting enough air? I'd hate to have done all of this work and have to give up and take it to the stealer for a $200 to $300 "adjustment". :nope: By the way, Phoenix AZ sits at about 1800 feet elevation. Don't know if that's of any help. Any help would be great. Thanks!

 

[Charlie D]

well to start off the DJ 195 is smaller than the stock jet.

Did you change out the low speed jet if you did you need to put the 55 back in, I think the kit has a 65 which makes the low end way fat.
if you want to leave the small jet in you will sacrafice your top end but it will run ok.

your set up would be best suited with the clip on the 4th position that should take care of the flat spot.

your way fat is because of the A/F screw setting, I am around 800ft and mine is set around 2 1/4 with the stock 55 low speed jet.

 

[AZVTX'er]

well to start off the DJ 195 is smaller than the stock jet.

Did you change out the low speed jet if you did you need to put the 55 back in, I think the kit has a 65 which makes the low end way fat.
if you want to leave the small jet in you will sacrafice your top end but it will run ok.

your set up would be best suited with the clip on the 4th position that should take care of the flat spot.

your way fat is because of the A/F screw setting, I am around 800ft and mine is set around 2 1/4 with the stock 55 low speed jet.

I did not change the low speed jet or I guess what they call the "pilot jet". I'll try the 4th position and 2.25 turns and see what happens.

by the way, any additional help would be great from anyone else while I have it down again. Thanks

 

[Charlie D]

leave the A/F where it is till after you get the acceleration issue solved after that I think you would only need around 2 turns out on the A/F

By the way if the needle holder tit with the little spring on it was not cut you will need to do that first, use toe nail clippers on it and only leave enough to screw the spring back on.
don't just pull the spring off unscrew it so as not to distort it.

 

[AZVTX'er]

ok, but any word on how to fix the acceleration problem

 

[Charlie D]

your needle clip position is what will fix the acceleration problem.

try the 4th position, top of the needle count 4 down and place clip there, you want to raise the needle in the jet.

if by chance it still falters you want to go up in jet size, your kit should have had a 200 in it that is the one I have in right now

 

[Ewing7]

I have a 05 1300R and it runs very stong and plugs look great. I've been tuning mine for 4 months (since I bought it). This is my set up: Keihin 210 MainJet (DJ 224) and a Keihin 58 pilot jet (DJ 62). I cut my carb spring down to 5 1/16", A/F 3 turns out, Kury Pro Hypercharger, Dial-A-Jet with snorkel kit, Cobra 2" Drags with ThunderMonster Baffles. I just kept checking my plugs and slowly going up on main jet sizes and adjusting the A/F until I was happy with my main circuit (top end accelleration), then I uped my pilot jet from a 55 to a 58 to add a little to take off (As well as the ThunderMonster Baffles). The Dial-A-Jet adds a little as well. I will attest that it runs awesome, and is a lot faster than it was stock, MPG I'll have to let you know, as soon as I can check it. I didn't touch my needle or shim anything. If you would like more assistance (with getting jets or anything) shoot me a PM, and I'd be happy help.

 

[Green Ghost]

Humm

To start off with Go with the Charlie D advice. I would put the stock 195 back in. After this I would go on a 30min ride so you would get a good plug check. If it still has a Flat Spot I'd PM SCAR or RETRO RICH and see if it may have been something you missed. I tune my carbs a little different. And many VTX owners are running the SCAR method with no trouble.

 

[AZVTX'er]

what's the scar method?

 

[Charlie D]

Here is the link to the scar method on the carb.

http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php?t=1914

 

[Scar]

what's the scar method?

Make sure the "tit" under the needle holder is trimmed.. sounds like the needle is not finding a "clean" path. I've been away from the computer working for a few weeks and this is a "fly-by".. don't know when I will be back on again.. Salome, AZ. here. :cheers:

 

[AZVTX'er]

thanks scar, I'll check that out. You can imagine my frustration right now being in az in November and having a sick X.

 

[Retro Rich]

Yep, trim the tit on the needle holder and see if that helps. If not, I'd yank the DJ main jet and put your stock 195 MJ and Needle back in if you get back in there to do anything (no need for a smaller main jet when you're putting more air into intake with the K&N); the Keihin 195 that comes in the bike equates out to a DJ 208. The DJ MJ and needle has a little more aggressive fuel delivery, which isn't a bad thing, but does make it more difficult to tune (i.e.-it's much more sensitive). If you're still having trouble, do the "Scar" method and shim the needle with one or two of the Radio Shack shims/washers as outlined in the thread that Charlie D mentioned and see how it runs. Start with your A/F at 2&1/2 turns, check your plugs after you ride it for a while and make minute adjustments to the A/F as necessary (out or counterclocwise another 1/8 of a turn at a time if you need to richen the mixture a little, in to lean it). You'll also notice on how it's acting when you're riding if it's running too lean or too rich (too lean you'll most likely get some decel backfiring on hard decel, too rich and you'll smell it in the exhaust).

Hope this helps, let us know if you have any other questions.

 

[AZVTX'er]

Well, I should have known, if a man has a problem.........always point the finger at the "tit". Today I took it all back down today, e-cliped the dynojet needle on the 4th position from the top, and of course, TRIMMED THE TIT. I put it all back together and she runs great! Lots of power, no hesitation. I'd like to thank all of you. I'm going to take the $200 to $300 I saved from not having to take the bike to the stealership and buy myself a new studded mustang seat!

 

[Charlie D]

Glad you got it all worked out, nice feeling when you do the work yourself.

 

[Netsk8er]

Scar - your info is invaluable

Make sure the "tit" under the needle holder is trimmed.. sounds like the needle is not finding a "clean" path. I've been away from the computer working for a few weeks and this is a "fly-by".. don't know when I will be back on again.. Salome, AZ. here. :cheers:

Bought a modded 07 VTX 1300 C with Morton single wall downturn pipes and your carb tune instructions saved my tail. Awsome & easy to follow write up.

I would like to know if anyone can explain to me if the Morton power cones are necessary to "save" my valves. The bike runs great, no flat spot, needs 1/8 - 1/4 choke on a cool morning for a minute, idles now as I would expect.

Bike didn't come with power cones installed and want to know if needed or suggested.

Thanks, Netsk8er:beer:

 

[BeefyBeefo]

Holy crap....this might win the award for the oldest revived thread. :choppersm