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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here is how I installed my JTD Hard Lowers. Through my research of pro’s and con’s on these, I decided to do it this way. I hope this post alleviates any questions or hesitations anyone is having about these lowers. I really enjoy them, and so far I am very happy with how they perform. Enjoy!



1. Unpack and separate all your parts and pieces. I made a run to Lowes to purchase additional hardware, and tossed away the plastic push tabs which came with them from JTD. Below are the additional items I purchased from Lowes to complete my install.

- 10-32 Nylon Lock Nuts
- #10 Nylon Washers
- 10-32 x 1/2 Button Head Cap Screws
- Non-skid adhesive rubber pads














2. This is the additional hardware I used, and the parts from JTD. Make sure you have plenty of extra zip-ties around.








3. Place your bike on a lift or stand. If you don’t have one, that is fine. Just remember, it will be more of a pain to crawl around on the floor. Secure your forks/handlebars so the fender stays out of your way.






4. Wash your bars up really good. You don’t want to scratch them during the install. I have the Cobra standard bars, 1 ¼ inch. You are going to need to “mock” the lowers up first. This will not only give you a chance to understand how they need to be mounted, but also provide you the opportunity to mark necessary holes to be drilled during the final install. Some folks have had to trim the lowers to ensure a proper fit. I did not have to trim anything.



5. Take the “Inner” portion of the lower and place 3 non-stick rubber pads in the channel which will fit around the upper portion of your bar. The channel will fit around the upper portion of the bar, and the rubber pads will help protect your chrome bars in the event you wish to remove the lowers. These rubber pads will also help alleviate the possibility of the ABS plastic from slipping, or sliding on the slick chrome bars.








6. Again, take the “Inner” portion of the lower and install 2 zip ties, one in each set of holes, as shown.







7. Again, with the “Inner” portion of the lower, fit the channel around the bar as shown. Snug the zip ties. Clip excess off zip-ties.










8. Locate and place the outer portion of the lower onto the inner.





9. Line up the two holes at the very top on both pieces. Take your 10/32 Button head screws, and a #10 Nylon washer, and place one each, in the holes.





10. From the bottom, place a #10 stainless steel washer, and lightly thread on the nylon insert lock-nuts. Do not over tighten, as you will remove these prior to completing the final install.





11. Locate the rubber covered P-Clamps. Place on the lower portion of the bar.






12. Line up your lower to your liking. Be sure to slide the p-clamp up the bar. I positioned it so it was about 3.5 inches from the frame of the bike, then I lined it up as close to the middle portion of the lower, near the bottom. Ensure to stay at least ¾ inch away from the edge of the lower with any holes to allow room for the rubber trim later. Once you have everything lined up to your liking, you will mark your hole with a sharpie. Be sure to move the p-clamp to your desired position, pinch the p-clamp closed, line up to your liking on the backside of the inner and mark your hole. You will need to drill this hole later with a ¼ inch drill bit. I do not recommend drilling while the lower is mocked up on the bike. You risk damaging or scratching other parts.

**Note** I spent a lot of time contemplating and ensuring all proper clearances were there. Make sure you can turn your bars the full length of travel without any contact. If you have the Honda-Line Light Bar and retained your OEM Turn Signals, they WILL lightly touch the lowers at a full turn. Everyone with this set up that I have talked with has had this occur. This does not bother me, the OEM signals are rubber mounted and flex when they lightly touch.





13. Remove the 2 button head cap screws, 2 nylon washers, 2 nylon lock nuts, and the 2 stainless steel washers. Clip/cut the 2 zip-ties and remove the lower. Place the lower on a bench or other location to prepare for drilling.



14. Get a ¼ inch drill bit. Find your mark on the inner, and drill through the inner only. Once you have drilled the hole through the inner, place the inner and outer together and drill through the outer, using the first hole as your pilot.

**NOTE** be sure to have your bit at a 90* angle to the surface of the lower when drilling the hole. This will ensure proper alignment of the 2 holes.








15. Place your lowers, both sides, on a bench. Measure the location of the hole you just drilled, and transfer to the other side. Mark the location with a sharpie and drill this hole in the same manner as the other side.

**NOTE** I was concerned with flexion and rattling between the two pieces. I installed 2 additional button head cap screws (with nylon washer, nylon lock nut and stainless steel washer) on each lower as depicted in the final picture. This is not necessary, although, I felt it would add stability and eliminate any vibrating and rattling between the inner and outer.



16. Prior to re-installing your lowers, follow the directions provided by JTD and install the trim (optional) for the vent door. If you are sending these out to be painted, I recommend waiting until after paint to complete the trim installation.



17. Re-install the lowers as you did during mock-up. Ensure the zip-ties are positioned so they do not interfere with the outer. Tighten as desired and clip the excess off the ends. I left about 1/8[SUP]th[/SUP] of an inch slack outside the locking mechanism of the zip-tie in case they slip a little. Install the outer and lightly tighten the button head screws.

**NOTE** Prior to tightening the button head screws be sure to slide the vent doors into position. You might consider using painters tape to hold vent door in place while you finish the installation.






18. Once the vent door is in place tighten the button head screws. Do not over tighten. The threads from the screw need to thread into the nylon on the lock-nut, but, you do not need to embed the washers into the ABS Plastic.



19. Position and line up the bottom hole you drilled to the p-clamp. Taken the larger button-head screw provided by JTD, place the nylon washer on the screw and insert from the outside in. Put the p-clamp over the screw, stainless washer and nylon lock-nut. Position your lower to your liking and tighten so they are snug. Do not over tighten as you risk damaging the ABS plastic the lowers are constructed of. The nylon lock washers will hold in place







20. Install the rubberized automotive trim around the entire lower perimeter. This may be easier to do prior to attaching the p-clamp.





21. Repeat for other side.



22. Take pictures.



23. Post pictures on VTX Café.











I plan to get them painted soon. I will post additional pictures after paint.


I hope I didn’t leave anything out, and in addition I hope I answered some questions anyone may have. I know I had plenty prior to buying them. Thanks for reading and checking out my installation!


Thanks,

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Good write up man!!..I'll be coming back to this when I get mine painted and ready to install...
Thanks. Glad you can use some of it!

Since you have the fatty's you probably will not be able to fit the bottom of the Lower between the floor board and the bars. You need aprox 1/2 in clearance for the ABS to fit. I couldnt either, but, thats becuase for some reason my left floorboard is closer to the bars than the right floor board. The right side fits, the left does not. It's really strange. I would have prefered to mount mine with the lower between the boards and the bars, but, it didn't work that way for me. I am thinking of cutting on them to make them fit, but, I'm going to ride them like they are for a while to see how they perform before I risk harming them.
 

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Mine were already on a bike that had Cobra Fatty's on it....In fact, this one....:icon_pelv







So installation should be pretty "idiot proof"...lol...:icon_mrha
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Mine were already on a bike that had Cobra Fatty's on it....In fact, this one....:icon_pelv

So installation should be pretty "idiot proof"...lol...:icon_mrha
Thats a good thing. I dont like cutting and drilling holes in stuff if I dont have to.
 

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This is a great write-up! I'd like a set myself, possibly. Are those vents I see on the front of them? I have the same crash bar, so they should fit great. It may be a while because I just got new bags and they still need paint. One thing at a time...
 

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Great write-up. I've been thinking about getting the same lowers after you first posted. Seems like a lot of work to get them installed, but your instructions are very helpful. Thanks.
 

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Guess I'll fess up and say I have a set of hard lowers ready to go on the Fatty's I bought. I also have some Polk speakers to go in them and a Nitro amp just for good measure. Also have a set of long horns to go on the Fatty's.

When Matt posted the sale, I pulled the trigger
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Guess I'll fess up and say I have a set of hard lowers ready to go on the Fatty's I bought. I also have some Polk speakers to go in them and a Nitro amp just for good measure. Also have a set of long horns to go on the Fatty's.

When Matt posted the sale, I pulled the trigger
I did not get the glove boxes or the speaker mounts. The only thing I can stress is, mock them up, and dont drill the holes for the p-clamps until you are 100% positive that is how you want it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Nice write up. Still thinking about it. If I do this, I will be coming back to it. Thank you.
Thanks Preston.

This is a great write-up! I'd like a set myself, possibly. Are those vents I see on the front of them? I have the same crash bar, so they should fit great. It may be a while because I just got new bags and they still need paint. One thing at a time...
Thanks. As BD said, yes, they have vents. Its a door that slides side to side in-between the inner and outer portion of the lowers.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Great write-up. I've been thinking about getting the same lowers after you first posted. Seems like a lot of work to get them installed, but your instructions are very helpful. Thanks.
Thanks. It's not a hard install by any means. Like anything, it takes time, and patience. Time I sometimes have, patience, well thats another story. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Had to make some changes...

Ok, I went for another ride today with the new lowers. After riding about 10 miles, parking, and really thinking about the installation I felt they needed to be trimmed up a little for a “cleaner”, better, fit. I also wasn’t 100% happy with the clearance between the fender and the lower during slow maneuvers. :( I don’t think it would have, but, if that fender comes into contact with the lowers, something could break or be damaged. Worse yet, cause me to wreck. :nono: What does this mean? Well, it means I did some trimming and re-shaping to get what I wanted. Here is what I did:



1. Starting on the left side I removed the outer, and the p-clamp.




2. I then maneuvered the bottom part of the lower between the floorboard and the bar. I paid close attention to where the floorboard was making contact with the lower. I also kept in mind the thickness of the automotive trim when installed. I then propped the floorboard up, I used a pliers.







3. You can see in this picture how much of the lower is extending past the bar. As you can imagine, this interferes a great deal with the floorboard.





4. I then used a pencil to follow the shape/form of the Cobra Standard Bars. I still wanted the bottom of the lower to extend past the bar, so, I followed the shape of the rear of the bar.




5. After I checked and double checked my marks, I removed the inner and placed it on my bench for cutting. I used my Bosch oscillating multi-tool. I’m sure there is a better way to cut ABS, but, this is what I had. It worked great by the way. I set the speed to 1, and took my time. I also cut about ¼ inch away from the line. I did this just in case I wasn’t happy and wanted to re-shape some more, etc. I essentially left myself some wiggle room for error. You can actually see the original hole for the p-clamp in this picture. That hole is actually going to be gone in a few minutes after my second cut.




6. I then placed the inner and outer together and traced my cut onto the outer.




7. I then cut the outer.


8. I used a carpenter’s knife to “smooth” the edges and give the ABS a very clean finished, rounded edge. I didn’t use a cutting motion, but rather, I scraped it.




9. Here you can see the two inners side by side. Notice the difference in shapes.




10. Again with the outers.




11. I then mocked up the pieces I had just cut to ensure I finally received the fit I was looking for. I didn’t get it right with the first cut, so, back to the bench to cut some more off. That ¼ inch I left will disappear now.




12. Once I received the fit I was looking for I used some paper and traced the new shape.




13. I cut the shape out and placed it on the other sides inner. I taped it in place and ensured I had it as close to the proper location as possible. There is a lot of looking, head scratching, and debating at this time.




14. When I was happy with the placement I traced the new shape with a pencil as shown above.


15. I then mocked up the inner with my pencil marks on it. I did this to see it before I made any cuts. Everything looked good, so I removed it, and made my cuts.


16. After making the necessary cuts and smoothing out all the rough edges with my carpenter’s knife, I reinstalled the lowers to mark my new holes for the p-clamps. Remember, by moving this hole up, I actually move the lower farther away from the fender, which is what I am aiming for. Once I was happy, I marked the holes with a sharpie, and removed the lowers and drilled my new holes.




17. Once the holes were drilled I placed the re-shaped lowers side by side to compare.







18. No more cutting was needed so I re-installed. I tightened everything down and tested the vents. Everything worked great and I gained at least 3-4 more inches of clearance from the fender.








Thanks for hanging with me on this install. :D

:choppersm Enjoy,

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Nice job, let us know how that worked for you. Did it lower the top down enough to clear you blinkers then?
The changes did not lower the top down. Since the oem signals hang from the honda line lightbar they do still come into contact when the bars are turned at full travel. I would say about an 1/8th to 1/4 of an inch would cure it.

Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2
 

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The changes did not lower the top down. Since the oem signals hang from the honda line lightbar they do still come into contact when the bars are turned at full travel. I would say about an 1/8th to 1/4 of an inch would cure it.

Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2
Have you ever thought about doing a headlight extension? I have a Hondaline lightbar like yours and I used Glen's 2" headlight extension to bring both the headlight and lightbar forward. On the extension piece, you mount it on top of the clamp where the headlight mounts, then undermount the headlight and lightbar to keep them from being too elevated and interfering with your fairing. This should be enough to allow your turn signals to clear the lowers.
 
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