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Discussion Starter #1
A lady pulled out in front of me on Feb 10 and jammed my forks pretty bad when I hit her. It was a low speed impact and I just could not stop in time. Everyone was ok but my bike. Just rebuilt the forks and completed a few mods while I had the bike apart. I have been meaning to post some photos for a while so here goes.

The first image is before any real mods, other than the cables ran through the bars.



This is the rear fender being widened with a $15 bottle jack, took my time and slowly widened it so it would fit the 240 rear tire. I wanted to keep the tail light and turn signal location for future bags. I really like the steel fender and wanted to keep the cost down as much as possible. With the stock fender, I can keep my stock seat mounting configuration as well as the fender struts.


This shows the impact to the forks...not to bad. Replaced the lower fork assembly, bushings and seals, wheel bearings, axle, fender stays, chrome dust guards, steering stem and bearings, brake pads and rotors, and new tire. Kept the fork tubes, and top triple clamp.





cook out....



Rolled the tank seam, I have wanted to do this for every metric bike I have ever owned. Well worth the time and looks incredible. I had no problems, just take it slow and do not rush. You will need to repaint afterwards though, and maybe a little body work for any dings you may encounter.



Also removed the rivets on the front fender, what a real hassle.



She sat for over a month during all of this......



I used Dupli-Color lacquer rattle can to paint the bike, it's an `02 and is a little abused so I did not want to pay for a show quality paintjob and wanted a hot rod type paintjob, I have had a lot of success in the past with rattle can paint jobs but this is by far the best I have done.



I spent more than I really had planned but the real winner is the Spray Max 2K clear coat. It is a two part urethane clear that will knock your socks off. Its about $22 a can and worth its weight in gold. You have to wear a respirator or you will die.



I really wanted to add as much hassle and work for a simple paint job as possible so I did the headlight too....











Turned out a lot better than I thought, and she rides true. Just wanted to share with the community, let me know if you guys have any questions and I will be happy to help anyone out.

Adam
 

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nice job
 

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A great way to make lemonade out of lemons! I would have had to been bailed out of jail after slapping the b that didn't see me!
 

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Excellent looking paint job. That came out great and at least from the pics I'd never know it was a rattle can paint job.
 

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Excellent work! Bike looks outstanding...congrats on a job well done!:patriot:
 

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Catholic Deacon
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Looks great! :cheers: Wish I was half as talented.
BOTM entry?

Only one problem, you do know that WHITE is the s l o w e s t color :stirpot:
 

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nicely done!!! congrats... :cheers:
 

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Really well done! Nice job!
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Reeling Jackwagon
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Nice job on the rebuild!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for all of the compliments.

Ebrg,
I used a standard hammer and took my time slowly tapping inwards and slowly formed the 'roll'. Do not rush it, after a few taps it begins to lay right over and is very easy. Its Honda!

BOTM entry? Not sure what this means Frizzgrig....? Yea I was unsure about the whole white bike thing but it was to add visibility to my bike. It was black and I had a black helmet when the lady pulled in front of me so I got a white helmet and white bike. You are going to have to convince my VTX that it is slower because she ain't buying it...!
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Parker,

I got a Dunlop E3 for like $190, got the modified swing arm from ebay for $380 or so, (no core charge - kept the original swing arm) and bought the mimic wheel for the 1800C for around $1170 shipped. These are the minimum parts you need, you can keep your turn signals, tail light, license plate light and mounting location, steel Honda fender, stock seat or custom seat (mounting configuration), and chrome fender sruts. Around $1850 for a fat tire on the 1800C, you just have to be willing to do it.

You will have to remove the mounting hardware from your rear fender, this hardware is used for mounting the fender, seat bolt in back, supports for your tail light cables and adds strutural support for your lady. You will need to widen the fender considerably with a $15 bottle jack, take your time and use 1" pine wood with round edges so you don't deform the metal, weld in your bolt for your seat, weld in your two tabs to support your tail light cables and buy some 'T-nuts' for your fender struts. The 'T-nuts' are American and you will need to match them with some stainless allen head bolts. The t-nuts are extremely strong, you have seen them in industrial cable spools, they hold the spool together - very strong. The t-nuts slip into the fender and then into the frame struts from behind leaving a flush wall in the inside for maximum clearance between tire and inside fender wall. The frame struts will have to be ground a bit to allow the clearance for the wider fender. You will also need to flex your chrome fender struts some for the wider fender.

You may need an extra set of hands to install the wheel, swingarm, and drive hub assembly in one move to the bike itself. This allows you to line up the U-joint, you may have to read up a bit on the actual install of the assembly. Installing the wheel-swingarm-drive assembly is not difficult just tedious, you will need a castle nut wrench to remove the swing arm as well as to torque it down during reinstall. Research all torque settings before you install and have all of the information you need prior to rough-in. You will need a bike jack to perform the install.
 
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