Joined
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156 Posts
So for the past week I have been reading dozens of threads and pages of posts. I have found tons of great pieces of advice that have worked for members, but nothing seemed to be located in one thread (you have to read...sometimes...10-20 pages before you come to an answer).
PLEASE CHECK END OF THREAD FOR CURRENT SYMPTOMS/SOLUTIONS
When members post new/edited or other symptoms/solutions, I'll add to this this thread quote and continue what has been started to prevent reading all the postings.
This is what I have gathered thus far (please correct any mistakes I make because I know that I will make them) and these are by far "typical" symptoms from users:
Is my bike LEAN?
Link to help understand the workings of Carburetor. http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tunin...m_engines.html
Here's another good read, talks about jetting, needle shimming and plug chops ect: http://crapmods.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=3604
PLEASE CHECK END OF THREAD FOR CURRENT SYMPTOMS/SOLUTIONS
When members post new/edited or other symptoms/solutions, I'll add to this this thread quote and continue what has been started to prevent reading all the postings.
This is what I have gathered thus far (please correct any mistakes I make because I know that I will make them) and these are by far "typical" symptoms from users:
Is my bike LEAN?
- Very white plugs
- Popping/backfiring from exhaust on deceleration
- Bike wants to die or almost dies in slow maneuvers
- Blip on the throttle causes the engine speed to hang slightly before recovering
- Excess fuel in Airbox (from Carburetor spitting fuel to compensate for lack there of)
- Hesitation or stuttering while starting from a stop in the low rpm range (goes away when higher rpm's are achieved)
- Black/oily plugs (also caused from the dreaded Choke)
- Bike hesitates when heavy throttle is applied or is slow to "speed up" (not to be confused with the 1/8-1/4 throttle turn while your bike is at a stop...the A/F screw affects the 1/8-1/4 turn while the needle/shim affects the mid to higher range)
- Blip on throttle causes the engine speed to drop below idle and then it recovers
- Significant gas odor while riding
- Turn out (counterclockwise) A/F screw (start with 1/8 turn increments)
- Add shim(s) to the needle
- Turn in (clockwise) A/F screw (start with 1/8 turn increments)
- If shim(s) exist, try removing them if A/F screw did fix the problem
- 900rpm +/- 100rpm
- May need to be set slightly higher for colder temps
- "Open" style airbox and after market "free flow" pipes... usually about 2or 3 shims.
- Airbox flowing more air than stock design, but not in the "heavy breathing" class and/or pipes either free flow or somewhat restricted... usually about 1or 2 shims
- Stock airbox (K&N filter in stock box is still "stock") and after market pipes... usually 0 or 1 shims
- Stock airbox and stock pipes...tune the A/F screw for maximum performance.
- Clip positions on after market are the same as shimming up or down ( a shim for half clip position).
Link to help understand the workings of Carburetor. http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tunin...m_engines.html
Here's another good read, talks about jetting, needle shimming and plug chops ect: http://crapmods.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=3604
