[The Black]

:hmm2: I've got a little over 10K miles on my 2003 VTX1800 Retro. The steering was nice and tight when the bike was new, but the bars can now be moved with a feather when the bike is up on a stand. I'm also noticing a bit of a knock when I hit a bump in the road. From the manual, adjusting the steering stem nut itself seems pretty straight forward, but I'd like to do it without disassembling the entire front end. If anyone has performed this adjustment I'd welcome any advice, especially if there are any known shortcuts.

 

[kevtx]

NO easy way, tie the front wheel with bunge cords to the lower frame to keep everything from moving. On my retro the fog lights need to be loosen to remove the windshield, the handle bars need to be removed, I cover the tank and just let them rest there, I haven't removed or loosen any thing else on the bars as mirrors or hand levers, then loosen the steering stem nut and tap off the top tripletree and don't over tighten the compression nut. If you get it too tight the bike won't hold a striaght line, but you won't find this out until everything is back together. If you loosen it all the way you will need to reseat the bearings.

 

[Gunnar]

What makes you think it needs to be tightened?

You guys are both from Indy. Are you aware of the VTXOA Indiana board? Very friendly folks who have a another ride on Oct 23rd meeting in Nashville. Also, one of their members is also in Santa Claus. FYI

 

[WILD E]

I was noticing a knock when hitting bumps and hwy plates , the front tire did not look low and felt hard but only had 10 psi in it causing this and handled sloppy at low speed.

 

[Retro Rocket]

WILD E is correct. Tire pressure on this bike is very critical. I can notice the difference even when the tires are as little as 5 lbs low. The bike tends to CLUNK and wander all over the road. I keep my front tire and my rear for that matter at 40 psi. Anything lower and the bike just doesn't handle right.

 

[Drywallman]

When I changed my front springs my clunk went away.

 

[Retro Rocket]

I know a lot people that have put the progressive springs in and have heard nothing but good things about the improvement they bring. I haven't done it yet because it requires a special tool to do it.

 

[rdking3]

Springs

I replaced my fork springs with Progressive springs. No more clunk and I am very happy with the ride.

 

[sgkramar]

Special tool? I replaced my springs with progressive springs a couple months ago and didn't need any special tools. Pull front tire, remove fork covers and front fender. Loosen fork cap, pull the fork out of the tree, remove cap rest of the way, pull out old spring, put in new spring, reassemble. Getting the cap back on the fork was a bit of a pain with the pressure of the spring trying to push it off, but that was the only hard part.

I changed my fork oil while I was at it.

 

[dirtdobber]

The forks on a 1300 and 1800 are completely different.
Have you checked the 2 riser bolts under the top triple tree. From your description

The steering was nice and tight when the bike was new, but the bars can now be moved with a feather when the bike is up on a stand.

Readjusting the neck bearing is rather simple.

Using a fish scale connect it to the fork cap on the left side. With the front tire off the ground pull on the scale but keep it straight- parallel with the fork angle. Below 1.50 lbs pull you need to tighten the neck bearings.

For fork springs:

http://www.bareasschoppers.com/forksprings/

dd