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I pulled my wheels off for new tires. I plan to reinstall this weekend. I need to stock up on the correct lube/s.

Front wheel: I assume I need to lube up the axle shaft before putting it back through. Also, I assume I should lube each bearing. What product is best for these purposes?

Rear wheel: I assume same lube on the rear axle and bearings?. What about the final drive interface gear? Lube it up? Same stuff?

Any other places I should lube? What about the circumference of the final drive where it runs close tolerance against the side of the rim?
 

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The axles are greased but this can be any cheap grease. Nothing actually spins on the axles. The grease is just to prevent corrosion of the axle. The bearings are not greased or, perhaps a better way of saying this is, that they are greased from the factory or during installation and are never greased again.

The rear wheel splines where they interface with the rear drive are lubricated with something called moly paste. This needs to contain at least 60% moly and is not the easiest thing to find.
 
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The axles are greased but this can be any cheap grease. Nothing actually spins on the axles. The grease is just to prevent corrosion of the axle. The bearings are not greased or, perhaps a better way of saying this is, that they are greased from the factory or during installation and are never greased again.

The rear wheel splines where they interface with the rear drive are lubricated with something called moly paste. This needs to contain at least 60% moly and is not the easiest thing to find.
Grease gets hot eventually. If used in the rear, esp. for the flange (interface, as you refer ), it will be flung out of the housing and end up all over your back side, and wheel. Moly can be bought in several containers. Loctite makes one, and you might even be able to source a tube of Honda Moly 77 which has a slightly higher % of Molybdenum. Whatever you find, a little will last you forever.
 
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Moly paste I use. ... Gloves on.
Gloves are very important.
Moly is with you for days if you get it on you. :)
 

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A spritz bottle of Simple Green takes Moly right off. Then reg. soap & water.
I will hopefully never have to find out LOL. I'm a gloves on type of guy whenever I'm working.

This goes back to the days I worked on my jeep, either in the driveway or on the trail. Living in NY, I have a long time relationship with anti-seize, that stuff get on EVERYTHING...
 

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I will hopefully never have to find out LOL. I'm a gloves on type of guy whenever I'm working.

This goes back to the days I worked on my jeep, either in the driveway or on the trail. Living in NY, I have a long time relationship with anti-seize, that stuff get on EVERYTHING...
Yeah, one day years ago, I was a parts deliverer to the local steel mill. I delivered to their mechanical garage one day, and some smart ass practical joker smeared the inside of my truck door handle with anti-seize. Made a mess for sure. That was way before Simple Green, too. I valued my job, and inter-company relations, or I'd have F'd him up.
 

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Yeah, one day years ago, I was a parts deliverer to the local steel mill. I delivered to their mechanical garage one day, and some smart ass practical joker smeared the inside of my truck door handle with anti-seize. Made a mess for sure. That was way before Simple Green, too. I valued my job, and inter-company relations, or I'd have F'd him up.
I think any jury would vote not guilty. All you would have to do is demonstrate by swiping the jurors hands with Anti-Seize on day one, then let your lawyer say "the defense rests." Done...
 

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Putting moly paste on the axles is overkill and a waste of expensive moly paste. Nothing rotates on the axles. The wheel bearings that press into the wheel hubs rotate internally while one part of the bearing stays motionless on the axle and the other part of the bearing stays motionless on the wheel hub (motionless with respect to the wheel hub that is). The lubricant on the axle is only there to reduce the propensity of corrosion of the axle and to make it easier to remove the axle the next time that it necessary. Use the cheapest axle or bearing grease you can find on the axles.
 
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Putting moly paste on the axles is overkill and a waste of expensive moly paste. Nothing rotates on the axles. The wheel bearings that press into the wheel hubs rotate internally while one part of the bearing stays motionless on the axle and the other part of the bearing stays motionless on the wheel hub (motionless with respect to the wheel hub that is). The lubricant on the axle is only there to reduce the propensity of corrosion of the axle and to make it easier to remove the axle the next time that it necessary. Use the cheapest axle or bearing grease you can find on the axles.
I agree with this, however, in my case with the size of the moly paste I got from Amazon (got it for the flange splines), I have more than enough that I will never use up on just the flange.

EDIT: Also, looking at my Amazon purchase details, I paid $28 + tax back in 2019, it has significantly increased in cost since then
 
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I ended up getting the Honda M77 moly paste and a can of marine grade trailer bearing grease to lightly coat on the axle. Should do the trick?

Honda HN 08798-9010 MOLY PASTE (M77)
Be sure to put the M77 moly paste somewhere sunny, like your dashboard for several hours before using, easier to get it out of the tube. That stuff is as stiff as 3 day old dog poop!
 

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I ended up getting the Honda M77 moly paste and a can of marine grade trailer bearing grease to lightly coat on the axle. Should do the trick?

Honda HN 08798-9010 MOLY PASTE (M77)
I bought one of those small tubes of Moly 60, 10 years ago, the kind that would fit in a mini grease gun, in 1 hand. I still have half a tube.
 
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Be sure to put the M77 moly paste somewhere sunny, like your dashboard for several hours before using, easier to get it out of the tube. That stuff is as stiff as 3 day old dog poop!
I keep the tube end cap with a notch in it for one of those cheap 1/2" bristle brushes in the tube. The handle sticks out of the cap.
 
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