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Discussion Starter #1
Hello
Having trouble finding a Mobile Mechanic for my 02 VTX1800, been trying for months by myself to fix it but can not.
Anyone in driving area of Lake Havasu City, AZ ???
 

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Hello
Having trouble finding a Mobile Mechanic for my 02 VTX1800, been trying for months by myself to fix it but can not.
Anyone in driving area of Lake Havasu City, AZ ???
What needs done to it? The fellas here can walk you through most anything if you have basic tools and skills.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for asking, it stated stalling after a short ride a few months back. pulled the air filter and it was in bad shape so cleaned and replaced filter it then started to smoke so then replaced the plugs and battery, them black smoke.
now no spark. tank full of gas
 

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Has the fuel pressure regulator been replaced? This will make a bike hard to start, run/ idle rough, stall, fuel mileage will be cut in half if you get it to run, black smoke from unburnt fuel. The little diaphragm on it goes bad from age, not from high miles or abuse. It then bleeds fuel down into the crankcase. Check your dipstick- does it reek of fuel smell? Over FULL on the stick? This happens to most early year 1800's. It's located under the fuel tank, left side, between the jugs, next to the fuel rail and Banjo bolt. $40 to replace, maybe 1/2 hr. to an hr. after getting the rear of the tank up in the air maybe 8 inches. It has to come backwards first to raise it. Change the FPR, then change your filter and oil. Run it around the block, drain the oil a second time. The filter only needs changed once. Plugs are good for 100K.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Has the fuel pressure regulator been replaced? This will make a bike hard to start, run/ idle rough, stall, fuel mileage will be cut in half if you get it to run, black smoke from unburnt fuel. The little diaphragm on it goes bad from age, not from high miles or abuse. It then bleeds fuel down into the crankcase. Check your dipstick- does it reek of fuel smell? Over FULL on the stick? This happens to most early year 1800's. It's located under the fuel tank, left side, between the jugs, next to the fuel rail and Banjo bolt. $40 to replace, maybe 1/2 hr. to an hr. after getting the rear of the tank up in the air maybe 8 inches. It has to come backwards first to raise it. Change the FPR, then change your filter and oil. Run it around the block, drain the oil a second time. The filter only needs changed once. Plugs are good for 100K.
 

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Ok, looking into it now... That's good news I do not have to remove the tank
To get the tank off, the first time is intimidating, but it's easier from there. The instrument cluster on top of thetank will probably have clearance problems with the tree area, so once the bolts to hold it are removed, tie the cluster up so you don't scratch the tank. Put a towel on top anyway. then after removing the rear tank bolt, lift it just a bit and wiggle it towards the seat. Maybe an inch, but just enough that you can then raise the rear of the tank enough to get to whats underneath. Make a prop rod either from wood or a pc. of PVC with notches on either end to hold the tank up.The new FPR will come with a protective disc on the back, to protect an O ring there. REMOVE it! the inner of the 2 bolts holding it on can be tough to get off/ on, but the proper tools can get it. Either a 1/4 drive socket/ u joint, or wobble extension, or a small metric ignition wrench. Very little torque on these 2 bolts, so tighten just snugly. Get used to removing the tank, it's in the way for lots of maintenance and mods.
 
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