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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there anyone in the Colorado Springs area that knows a good mechanic? Bike started running rough after I changed my air intake from a hypercharger to a more simple intake. I took it to RMCP to rejet, plus full tuneup and $700 later its still running like crap. The mechanic at RMCP did not notice that I had capped off the crankcase line and that I had the wrong line hooked up to the intake. Not their fault that I had the lines hooked up wrong, but I think they should have noticed since it was running so poorly and since I asked them to check everything out.

Lines are all hooked up correctly now, RMCP say the rejetted, they say they did a vavle check/adjustment and a tuneup but I dont trust them anymore. I have removed the PAIR valve and capped off the line for it.

So if anyone knows a good mechanic or can give me some pointers on trying to figure things out myself, it would be greatly appreciated.

The problem... the bike idles fine and will run but it acts like its running out of gas. It randomly sputters and bogs down like it does when you run the tank dry, but doesnt backfire. I can feel it dragging and lurching but its subtle. If I hit full throttle it doesnt do it as much but I can still hear it and feel it randomly choking. My first thought is that RMCP rejetted it wrong but Im no mechanic so Im not certain.I dont know what else to do. :hmm2:
 

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Gecko?
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Sounds like a bad re-jet to me. Did you ask what kind of jet kit they installed? My guess is that it was a dynojet kit and that's not going to run right in the VTX. Have you checked your plugs? Do you use the choke? Have you checked to make sure it's not pulled out at all? It sounds like you got ripped off to me and unfortunately it's all too common. That's why I do all of my own work.

Do some more checking and post how everything looks. My guess is you're going to need to install a Factory Pro jet kit and mess with the A/F screw a bit (purchase Glen's extended A/F screw or at the very least the tool to adjust it).

I can try to help you out but need some more info. :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah I agree with you, I think I got ripped off. I do as much as I can myself, but im not a mechanic. I was going to try the rejet myself but I cant get to the back bottom bolts on the carburetor to take off the float bowl. Whats the secret?
I have not checked the plugs, I just assumed they did that when I took it into the shop for a tuneup. The choke is not pulled out. When I do pull it out, it immediately stalls. Yesterday after work, my ride home was almost perfect. It only choked on me once, but this morning was horrible. It spit and sputtered on my entire ride into work. There were times when I thought the bike was going to completely die and stall on me.

I have a Kuryakyn Velociraptor Air Cleaner and 3" HardKrome straight pipes so it gets a lot of air, which I think is my problem.

I have never messed with the A/F screw before.

Oh yeah... and Im pretty sure they used a dynojet
 

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i will agree factory pro kit is needed now. i have close to the same set up on my c and i was able to use glens A/F screw and scar mod and it took some trial but i have it dialed in now... bike runs great and never have to use the choke .... i also went .05 over on sparkplug gap and use the e3 plugs....

as far as the back bolts on carb ... not sure i never took the carb off the bike ...
 

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Equito Passim
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Read up on the SCAR Mod. As far as the float bowl, loosen the band clamp behind the carb that attaches it to the intake manifold and pull it off the intake. This allows you to tilt up the carb itself and access underneath it.

Chances are, its just a bad re-jet. the Dyno-Jet kits are notorious for being inconsistent. Its not that they're bad kits, they're just not right for the VTX's carb. The Factory Pro kit is best for the carb. I would also recommend a Glen's Permanent A/F Tool.

The DJ Kits change the spring inside the carb. The Factory Pro kit is made to use the stock one. If you didnt get your old parts back from the dealership that did it, go back and get them... After all, they are yours.

Once you get the parts back, and you decide what you want to do, update this thread and we can help you thru the process.. but we would need to know what kind of intake you changed to.

Also, you want to get your vaccum lines straightened out. When you get into the carb re-re-jet, you can easily replace them for a few bucks.

-Gonz
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Okay, I will have to break down and get another jet kit, Factory Pro this time and Glens A/F screw. Frustrates the hell out of me that I dropped all that money for Rocky Mountain Cycle Plaza to do this and they didnt do it right, so now I have to do it myself.

For the plugs, do you mean the E3 DiamondFire Spark Plugshttp://www.e3sparkplugs.com/products.htm? (http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/products.htm) Is there a local store that carries them or do I need to get them online?

Im not wanting to take the carb off the bike, Im trying to take the float bowl off of the bottom of the carb so I can get to the jets. Maybe I was looking at the wrong screws/bolts.

I might turn into a mechanic yet...

Also, you want to get your vaccum lines straightened out. When you get into the carb re-re-jet, you can easily replace them for a few bucks.

-Gonz
What do you mean by straightened out? Do you mean the vacuum lines should be physically straight or do you mean I need to make sure they are hooked up correctly? I have gone over the lines and they are all hooked up right and I have block-off plates coming in the mail so I can finish off the PAIR valve removal. They are currently capped off with rubber plugs.

My intake is a Kuryakyn Velociraptor
http://www.kuryakyn.com/Products/3955/Velociraptor-Air-Cleaner

UPDATE: The Scar Mod looks fairly simple. All I have to do is clip a part of the yellow cap that sits over the needle...right?
 

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the scar mod will only work with the factory needle and jets... the factory pro kit comes with an adjustable needle and i would contact charlied for suggestions on what jets to start with. if he isn't around i can look up the sugestions he made for mine and send them to you.

on the plugs some places local have them but its best to order them i found mine on amazon for like 2.43 a pop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I will skip the Scar mod for now then and will change plugs, rejet with a Factory Pro Kit and get an A/F screw. So will be at least a week before I have anything new to report. Do you remember what you gapped your spark plugs at?
 

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I will skip the Scar mod for now then and will change plugs, rejet with a Factory Pro Kit and get an A/F screw. So will be at least a week before I have anything new to report. Do you remember what you gapped your spark plugs at?
.005 over what they come set at... so i think .045 - .047 let me know if you need jet recomondations...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I just received my Factory Pro jet kit in the mail. Does anyone have recommendations on which jets I should use, and needle position? Im going to pull the carb apart when I get off work today. Bike runs good when I slightly pull out the choke while Im riding so I assume I am going to have to use larger jets.

I feel really dumb for asking this, but what is the longer brass item included in the jet kit? Here is a picture...


 

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here is what i was told ( or at least what i can find )

Set the initial A/F setting at around 2 1/4 for the high elevation then make sure you are around 900 for the idle this will sound a bit fast.


when the idle drops below your set idle speed then returns to idle you A/F setting is a tad rich go in 1/8 turn at a time till it is correct.

You really need a larger main jet with Dougs filter you need a 210 main at the smallest.

I think I read that Doug went with the factory pro kit you might ask him what jets he used.

You can put some blue painters tape on the filter and see if it gets better if it does you need larger jets.


like i said before contact Charlie D or doug they may be able to help more as they use the factory pro kit. i never got arount to it... still want to be i like the way the bike is running right now...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK, I have rejetted with a 210 main jet and put the needle spacer at the 4th notch from the top of the needle. I have Glen's extended A/F screw installed and it is 2.5 turns out. The bike starts YAY!!! :bleh: It will not idle. As soon as I let off of the throttle it dies. Do I need to turn the A/F screw out to give it more fuel?

I kept turning the A/F screw out but it continues to stall when I let off the throttle. I turned it all the way in and was the same. So I unscrewed the A/F screw all the way out but the spring, washer, and gasket did not come out. Do I need to get them out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Update:

I finally fished the gasket, washer and spring out. The washer was shredded so I had to replace it. Got everything put back together. The bike idles now with no throttle but as soon as I put it in gear, it dies. Any suggestions on what I need to do?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I am officially an idiot! I forgot to check the headlight fluid... or failed to put the kickstand up... or something stupid like that.

Took the bike for a spin. It does great at high throttle and in low gear, no backfire or popping from the short trip that I went on. When in high gear and high throttle it works well but if I let off the throttle to keep a steady speed and then hit the throttle again, it hesitates and sputters for several seconds before picking up speed. I hope this is something I can fix with the A/F screw.
 
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