[sjeczm]

Had an '03 1800s last year and it was a great motorcycle. Except it seemed very top heavy. Especially in slow moving traffic. Sold for that reason alone. Too much needed muscle. Now zoom to this last fall and another '03 1800c comes up for sale. I was going to buy a used Harley Street Glide for alot of money. But had to look at the VTX first. $4500 later and I am in the saddle again. But this model was not top heavy at all and was easy to maneuver at any speed. Why such a big difference between the c and the s models? Bought it for a winter project to polish/dress up and then flip. But it is such an easy ride and that 1800 motor is making me rethink. Parts are getting tough to find now such as accelerator cables. The paint is that lime green color. So I took the tank, fenders, side covers and hard saddlebags which I just bought to the paint shop. Picked Vivid red- one of the paint colors for the Corvette. Trying to keep my renovation all under $3k. So hopefully come April it is done and is badass. That would be a keeper. People say that you gotta get the Progressive shocks and fork springs. This bike felt fine without them. Any reason otherwise to switch to aftermarket? It has 11k on the odometer. If I should change out fork fluid I suppose I would put in new springs. I think the forks work fine. How good are the OEM rear shocks? Progressives even better? Keep you all posted.

 

[Vinish]

While aftermarket front and rear sprigs/shocks are better than stock, if the stock are doing okay by you, there is no reason to replace them.

 

[PaXman11]

Had an '03 1800s last year and it was a great motorcycle. Except it seemed very top heavy. Especially in slow moving traffic. Sold for that reason alone. Too much needed muscle. Now zoom to this last fall and another '03 1800c comes up for sale. I was going to buy a used Harley Street Glide for alot of money. But had to look at the VTX first. $4500 later and I am in the saddle again. But this model was not top heavy at all and was easy to maneuver at any speed. Why such a big difference between the c and the s models? Bought it for a winter project to polish/dress up and then flip. But it is such an easy ride and that 1800 motor is making me rethink. Parts are getting tough to find now such as accelerator cables. The paint is that lime green color. So I took the tank, fenders, side covers and hard saddlebags which I just bought to the paint shop. Picked Vivid red- one of the paint colors for the Corvette. Trying to keep my renovation all under $3k. So hopefully come April it is done and is badass. That would be a keeper. People say that you gotta get the Progressive shocks and fork springs. This bike felt fine without them. Any reason otherwise to switch to aftermarket? It has 11k on the odometer. If I should change out fork fluid I suppose I would put in new springs. I think the forks work fine. How good are the OEM rear shocks? Progressives even better? Keep you all posted.

The Uranium Green color is kinda rare, I would have kept it as is, but taint mine, it's yours. I have had stock shocks, replaced with MB gas shocks, and after one of the shock stems broke from road construction, I went whole hog for the top of the chain 444 Progressives. Much better than the others. The lifetime guarantee is a factor as well. C fenders are smaller, so less weight. When taking the forks apart to replace seals and bushings, it makes sense to install better springs as well if you can afford it. The fork oil makes a difference in the ride as well. Stock is 10W. I mixed equal parts of 10W and 15W for a net of 12.5W. I like it OK. Welcome from central Pa. high atop the Alleghenies.

 

[darrenbashby]

Had an '03 1800s last year and it was a great motorcycle. Except it seemed very top heavy. Especially in slow moving traffic. Sold for that reason alone. Too much needed muscle. Now zoom to this last fall and another '03 1800c comes up for sale. I was going to buy a used Harley Street Glide for alot of money. But had to look at the VTX first. $4500 later and I am in the saddle again. But this model was not top heavy at all and was easy to maneuver at any speed. Why such a big difference between the c and the s models? Bought it for a winter project to polish/dress up and then flip. But it is such an easy ride and that 1800 motor is making me rethink. Parts are getting tough to find now such as accelerator cables. The paint is that lime green color. So I took the tank, fenders, side covers and hard saddlebags which I just bought to the paint shop. Picked Vivid red- one of the paint colors for the Corvette. Trying to keep my renovation all under $3k. So hopefully come April it is done and is badass. That would be a keeper. People say that you gotta get the Progressive shocks and fork springs. This bike felt fine without them. Any reason otherwise to switch to aftermarket? It has 11k on the odometer. If I should change out fork fluid I suppose I would put in new springs. I think the forks work fine. How good are the OEM rear shocks? Progressives even better? Keep you all posted.

One reason for the handling difference is likely the front tire size. The C model has a 130/70-18 front tire while the S has a 150/80-17. So the tire on the C is an inch taller, but quite a bit narrower, and has a lower profile to the rim. My guess is that means less flexing and smaller contact patch to the road on the C than the tire on the S. Plus the C is about 35 lbs lighter. They have the same frame, and I cannot imagine the tire size making that big of a difference in rake and trail geometry,, so as I already said, my guess is tire diameter and profile.

 

[MR VTX]

Welcome back to the fold. Yeah, with the skinnier front tire, it will enter the curves easier than the wider R/S/T tire...which will equate to easier maneuverability, especially at slower speeds. That lime green wasn't a stock color...the Uranium Green was darker with some subtle sparkle to it. The red should look nice!

If the suspension is working for you, don't change it. However, if you do decide to do a real suspension upgrade up front, I highly recommend the Race Tech gold valve emulators and springs, and then couple that with a nice shock out back like the Progressive 444s mentioned above. I run this combo on my 1300, and it is night-and-day different over the stock setup. The 1800 inverted forks work differently than standard forks, but it can still be improved.

 

[sjeczm]

One reason for the handling difference is likely the front tire size. The C model has a 130/70-18 front tire while the S has a 150/80-17. So the tire on the C is an inch taller, but quite a bit narrower, and has a lower profile to the rim. My guess is that means less flexing and smaller contact patch to the road on the C than the tire on the S. Plus the C is about 35 lbs lighter. They have the same frame, and I cannot imagine the tire size making that big of a difference in rake and trail geometry,, so as I already said, my guess is tire diameter and profile.

Ok that makes sense to me. Good thing I found a c model (or it found me). I am half way through the desmog. Then on to the valve tuning. So much to do: new radiator fluid, flush the brakes, new tires, turn signals, grips, battery, plugs, headlight, seat, paint job, and I don't know what all else. Already blew the budget. Still alot cheaper than a Harley Street Glide. Just as much fun too.

 

[sjeczm]

Ok that makes sense to me. Good thing I found a c model (or it found me). I am half way through the desmog. Then on to the valve tuning. So much to do: new radiator fluid, flush the brakes, new tires, turn signals, grips, battery, plugs, headlight, seat, paint job, and I don't know what all else. Already blew the budget. Still alot cheaper than a Harley Street Glide. Just as much fun too.

Good news and a little bit of bad news. The bad is I dropped the front gasket plate during desmog on the front cylinder and the dreaded radiator ate it. It is somewhere between the fan blade and the bottom of the radiator. Good news is I was gonna flush the coolant anyway so no big deal. Ordered the chrome VTX grill cover. More money.

 

[PaXman11]

Good news and a little bit of bad news. The bad is I dropped the front gasket plate during desmog on the front cylinder and the dreaded radiator ate it. It is somewhere between the fan blade and the bottom of the radiator. Good news is I was gonna flush the coolant anyway so no big deal. Ordered the chrome VTX grill cover. More money.

? So why not loosen the radiator bolts and fish it out? I wouldn't want something in there loose, bouncing or moving around near the plastic fan blades.

 

[sjeczm]

Yes I intend to that and fish it out. Not gonna flush the coolant just yet anyway because it is supposed to run for a short time after coolant is added. The battery is not even installed yet. But while I was looking at the radiator I also looked at the front brake pads. There is about 1/8 inch of pad left on both calipers. Couldn't find the line cut into the pads see if they are worn. Does that mean they are worn past the line? How much brake material is on a new one? Are mine worn out?

 

[MR VTX]

Yes I intend to that and fish it out. Not gonna flush the coolant just yet anyway because it is supposed to run for a short time after coolant is added. The battery is not even installed yet. But while I was looking at the radiator I also looked at the front brake pads. There is about 1/8 inch of pad left on both calipers. Couldn't find the line cut into the pads see if they are worn. Does that mean they are worn past the line? How much brake material is on a new one? Are mine worn out?

The brake pads do have wear indicators, which are the lines through the pad material. There is also a small rectangular mark on the ends of the pads where they meet with the backing plate. If you don't see any of those, they're ready to be replaced.

 

[PaXman11]

Yes I intend to that and fish it out. Not gonna flush the coolant just yet anyway because it is supposed to run for a short time after coolant is added. The battery is not even installed yet. But while I was looking at the radiator I also looked at the front brake pads. There is about 1/8 inch of pad left on both calipers. Couldn't find the line cut into the pads see if they are worn. Does that mean they are worn past the line? How much brake material is on a new one? Are mine worn out?

I had my bike inspected in June this year, when the sticker expired. My front pads were .002, just at the pass/ fail limit. I only put less than 1K on her this year due to various things, but for next year I'll need new pads to pass inspection. 1/8 " by your measure, you have lots left. I have 26K on the bike, and the current pads are the 2nd set ever on the bike.

 

[sjeczm]

Got the Clymer manual out and they have a illustration of the pad wear indicator and where to look. It became apparent that these are the original pads. And the wear lines are worn down just past them. On the rear there is alot of pad left. So the rear pads have been replaced. As for the front two new sets of Honda OEM pads will set me back $83. Mooooore mooooola. Now I can fish out that funky lookin front seal gasket which is the last step in de-smoging.

 

[sjeczm]

I had my bike inspected in June this year, when the sticker expired. My front pads were .002, just at the pass/ fail limit. I only put less than 1K on her this year due to various things, but for next year I'll need new pads to pass inspection. 1/8 " by your measure, you have lots left. I have 26K on the bike, and the current pads are the 2nd set ever on the bike.

Ok then would you look at your front pads on both sides. Imagine 1/8" left on the pad. Would you still see the wear lines? Because I do not. How could I be looking at it wrong But yet you say there is plenty left. I was about to spend $85 on two new sets.

 

[Vinish]

Note that there may be a small metal "tray" in which the pad sits. The lip of this tray is maybe 1/16" tall. If this tray exists on your pads, make sure that you do NOT include the height of the tray in your measurement of remaining brake pad. What counts is the amount of pad above the lip of this metal tray. If you do not have a metal tray, then ignore this comment.

 

[sjeczm]

Ok then would you look at your front pads on both sides. Imagine 1/8" left on the pad. Would you still see the wear lines? Because I do not. How could I be looking at it wrong But yet you say there is plenty left. I was about to spend $85 on two new sets.

Duh. After a second look what I found was that rectangular wear mark. It is not wear lines but a different shape than I am used to seeing. PaXman11 was right. I am good for a while with front brakes. You guys saved me $83. Thanks. Odd shape for a wear mark but what do I know. The light buld finally lit up.

 

[CruiserNoob]

Had an '03 1800s last year and it was a great motorcycle. Except it seemed very top heavy. Especially in slow moving traffic. Sold for that reason alone. Too much needed muscle. Now zoom to this last fall and another '03 1800c comes up for sale. I was going to buy a used Harley Street Glide for alot of money. But had to look at the VTX first. $4500 later and I am in the saddle again. But this model was not top heavy at all and was easy to maneuver at any speed. Why such a big difference between the c and the s models? Bought it for a winter project to polish/dress up and then flip. But it is such an easy ride and that 1800 motor is making me rethink. Parts are getting tough to find now such as accelerator cables. The paint is that lime green color. So I took the tank, fenders, side covers and hard saddlebags which I just bought to the paint shop. Picked Vivid red- one of the paint colors for the Corvette. Trying to keep my renovation all under $3k. So hopefully come April it is done and is badass. That would be a keeper. People say that you gotta get the Progressive shocks and fork springs. This bike felt fine without them. Any reason otherwise to switch to aftermarket? It has 11k on the odometer. If I should change out fork fluid I suppose I would put in new springs. I think the forks work fine. How good are the OEM rear shocks? Progressives even better? Keep you all posted.

All bikes are inherently heavy. Practice slow speed maneuvers regularly in a parking lot and you will quickly realize it’s all about preloading your clutch and keeping your revs in a zone that allow you to keep the bike moving with a smooth release of the clutch if you get into trouble and feel like you might tip over. Just my dollar minus .98 👍

 

[MikaelaGarcia]

Since it is designed to operate for a brief period of time after coolant is introduced, there is no need to clean the coolant just yet. Not even the battery has been attached yet. But I also had a check at the front brake pads while I was inspecting the radiator. Both calipers have around 1/8 inch of pad left. I was unable to locate the line carved into the pads to check on their wear. Are they now past the line of wear, then? On a new one, how much brake material is there? Are mine exhausted?

 

[PaXman11]

Since it is designed to operate for a brief period of time after coolant is introduced, there is no need to clean the coolant just yet. Not even the battery has been attached yet. But I also had a check at the front brake pads while I was inspecting the radiator. Both calipers have around 1/8 inch of pad left. I was unable to locate the line carved into the pads to check on their wear. Are they now past the line of wear, then? On a new one, how much brake material is there? Are mine exhausted?

1/8 in. is a lot. For example, last yr. when I got mine state inspected, mine measured out at .004 (thousandths) for the rear, and .002 for the front, just barely passing. Some things were going on in life, and I probably only rode 6-700 mi. last yr. I will need new for this yr.'s inspection.