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Discussion Starter #1
Figured my time was due, I am at 8,500 miles. Since I am one handed, and can't do any wrenching, is there a danger riding the bike as is, or am I "ok" to ride.

Also, can someone point me to the parts/bearings/etc. I will need to fix this issue?

Thanks!!
 

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You can run that way if you want.

You can also loosen the top bridge and take it off then take the top spanner nut off it is just finger loose tighten the bottom nut then put that top nut back on loose bend the tabs of the retainer back in place and put the top bridge back on.

It is part of the 8000 mile service that they say they do but don't.
 

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You can run that way if you want.

You can also loosen the top bridge and take it off then take the top spanner nut off it is just finger loose tighten the bottom nut then put that top nut back on loose bend the tabs of the retainer back in place and put the top bridge back on.

It is part of the 8000 mile service that they say they do but don't.


Bring in back into spec and you should be fine for about another 8K...
As for riding as it is, Don't take your hands off the grips... Ins't that what the dealers all say :eek::eek:
 

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Regular Person
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Discussion Starter #10
You can run that way if you want.

You can also loosen the top bridge and take it off then take the top spanner nut off it is just finger loose tighten the bottom nut then put that top nut back on loose bend the tabs of the retainer back in place and put the top bridge back on.

It is part of the 8000 mile service that they say they do but don't.
Thanks for the info Charlie!



Bring in back into spec and you should be fine for about another 8K...
As for riding as it is, Don't take your hands off the grips... Ins't that what the dealers all say :eek::eek:

That is how I noticed it in the first place. Right at 40 MPH like I'd read on here, kind of scared me when it happened.
 

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team VTX cafe physician
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once you do change the bearings, the wobble will be gone.......I turned on my cruise control the other day and let go of the handle bars for a few seconds.......no wobble!! hope you get to do the mod soon!!
 

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I changed out the steering bearings, progressive fork springs, front wheel bearings & Metzer tires all at the same time. I had to look at the bike's VIN number. It felt like a totally different bike. SO much better!
 

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Oh my gosh - just look at that link on how to do the neck bearing. And I say no way.
I've done 9 and have maybe 4 or more in the future.
I don't remove the front tire,fender,axle,clutch lever,turning signal housing,remove break holder, remove throttle screw,handle bar bolts, or handlebars,no press needed to install new bearing race, no Race installation tool needed. I don't do any of the above.
In about 2.5 hrs.
I don't even touch or remove the bottom tree from the forks or the wheel and fender.
I leave everything attached to the handlebars and do not remove them from the top tree.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Oh my gosh - just look at that link on how to do the neck bearing. And I say no way.
I've done 9 and have maybe 4 or more in the future.
I don't remove the front tire,fender,axle,clutch lever,turning signal housing,remove break holder, remove throttle screw,handle bar bolts, or handlebars,no press needed to install new bearing race, no Race installation tool needed. I don't do any of the above.
In about 2.5 hrs.
I don't even touch or remove the bottom tree from the forks or the wheel and fender.
I leave everything attached to the handlebars and do not remove them from the top tree.

Doug,

I seen that video and know there is NO WAY I can do this and I'd be afraid to ask my friends to.

Do you happen to have a detailed way to do this?
 

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Equito Passim
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I need to do mine as well.. There is a couple things I need to get then I will be able to do them.

With his "take the whole assembly off" method, it is much quicker and easier, but you need a few guys to help you with it.. that whole unit (forks, rim, tire, etc..) aint that light..

-Gonz
 

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It is always better to take everything apart and flush the fork tubes at the same time to get the crud out of them.
I agree - Doing it the way I do, you don't touch the bottom pinch bolts on the tree (the whole bottom tree and wheel and fender come off as one piece) . You can remove the caps and springs and drain the tubes and also flush them out with brake fluid and pump them up and down by hand to flush them out.
 

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I have the "wobble" now. Took only a year and 13000 miles to get it but here it is. I don't have the equipment to do it myself, I'll see how much a shop charges for it. Anyone have a shop do it? If so what was the ball park charge?
 

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I have the "wobble" now. Took only a year and 13000 miles to get it but here it is. I don't have the equipment to do it myself, I'll see how much a shop charges for it. Anyone have a shop do it? If so what was the ball park charge?
It is around 300 for a shop to do it.

You might be able to hit one of the tech sessions and get it done.
 
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