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Looking good. Did you clip the tit on the yellow retaining piece that holds in the needle and spring? Does the new needle wiggle a little and is able to be pushed very slightly upwards toward the yellow retaining piece? The notches which you labeled with letters are normally referred to as "X notches from the blunt end" so your "E" would be 1 notch from the blunt end and your "B" would be 4 notches from the blunt end. You do not show it but you did put a clip in one of these needle notches, didn't you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I haven't done anything yet.
I've just pulled SS from a video and match where parts go and build a visual guide or reference for folks.
I can relabel the clip notches for folks. The image is adjusted above.

"Shorten post on the needle retainer by 4mm", I don't completely understand.
 

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Inside of the slide (~2" diameter black tube with conical shaped rubber diaphragm on top) is a yellow needle retainer. Using a socket, rotate this needle retainer about 1/8 turn CCW and it will come loose. Remove it and the old needle and spring will come out. Look on the underside of this yellow needle retainer and you will see a small nipple/tit to which the needle spring attaches. This nipple/tit must be shortened to about half its original length to provide room for the new FP needle which can have a longer section protruding under the needle retainer cap if one of the higher numbered needle clip positions is used. Toenail clippers work well to clip this tit.
 

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Yes, exactly. Gently pull the spring and it will release from the nub. Then, use large toenail clippers to cut off about half of this nub for the reasons previously mentioned. This will still leave enough nub for the spring to attach. Note carefully how this yellow piece is constructed and see that it only is tightened slightly (~1/8 turn) to lock it in place.
 

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Your pictures and the text on the pictures is awesome. Way beyond my ability. Thanks for including them.
 

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Make sure to get the old exhaust gaskets out of the exhaust ports. They often are hard to see and look like just part of the port since they are crushed so much. Install new gaskets in each port. If you are using the stock chrome domed nuts, put a couple of stainless steel washers under each, tighten the nuts to the specified torque, ride it for 20 minutes, and retorque the exhaust flange nuts.
 

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You can buy the exhaust gaskets real cheap at any local chain autoparts store. There is a sticky thread that contains part numbers for various parts and includes the gaskets that will work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
This look right?

Midas – #521817 (old# EN1837)
NAPA / Victor – F12329 or F 7283
Felpro – 60569
Walker – 31320
Maremont – G184
Marwill – G647B
Imco – 124647
NEA – EX935
ROL-Tech – EG24647
 

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I do not have the list memorized and would have to go searching to find the thread containing the list. If you obtained this list from a thread here on the VTX Cafe, then I am sure it is the right list. Strangely enough, many auto parts stores only carry a single one of these gaskets so you may have to go to two different stores to buy two of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Almost everything is installed. Still need to put the Cobra hest shields on the pipes. Big difference in responsiveness and power. I still haven't pin pointed what the problem was but I did check the vacuum piston diaphragm and I seen some cracking. Thinking about taking it to KDZ for fine tuning the system. I've set it at 4th notch on needle and 2 1/2 turns A/F with a 220.
 
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