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For a couple thousand miles, I've been living with this annoying intermittent neutral indicator light problem. The green N neutral indicator light on my 2007 VTX 1800R would flicker, and not come on every time it was supposed to. Yeah I know, I'm picky, but I like stuff to work. This problem occurred only when the bike was fully warmed up/hot, after a few miles of riding. I would come to a stop in gear, clutch level pulled in, click gear shifter into neutral, (no green N light), slowly let out the clutch lever making sure bike is actually in neutral, and once clutch lever was fully let out, green N light would come on. I had no difficulty shifting into or finding neutral. Just that the light would not come on, especially when clutch lever was pulled in.

After some Googling, I came across some other posts pointing me toward the neutral switch. Finally got around to changing it, and sure enough, it solved my problem.
Thank you!!!!!!!! :mosh:

I understand wear over time will cause it to lose contact. But my bike only had about 20000 miles total when it started happening. Seems like it should last longer than that. They should make the spring contact shaft thingy two inches long or something. Oh well, least it's an easy fix.

The switch was only $12. For 2007 VTX 1800R1:
neutral switch: part # 35600-KE8-003
neutral switch washer: part # 90443-MJ6-000
When you order the neutral switch, on the parts finder diagrams, it is under CRANKCASE section. #10 & 26 for my bike (Took me forever to find it.)

I did not replace the washer, (I forgot to order it), but the old one seemed fine, and have no leaks after test ride. If I did it again I would, it's only $2.50.
I had read something about filing down the old washer to get the old switch to make contact again, but I thought for 12 bucks, best to replace it. Plus I'd probably file it down crooked and get an oil leak.

BTW: Based on what I read, I had pan and towels ready for an BP/Exxon Valdez type oil spill when removing the neutral switch. But no oil came out when I removed it. The bike was cold, had been sitting for more than a day. (yes, my oil level is good.)

REFERENCES:
Service manual PDF: 19-11
Clymer manual VTX1800: p.263
http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php?t=62292
http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthread.php?294523-Neutral-light
2007 R1: http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_secti...y=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=2007&fveh=12160

Just wanted to document my experience, and share pics:


 

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Slayer of Chickens
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Nice post.

Mort
 

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2,622 Posts
dumb question, but i hope the answer isnt ??? lol

how did you take it off, did you have to lift bike on stand, wood or something??? it's happened to me a few times recently, so figure, hey, let me check.

where did you buy the part? thank in advance:choppersm

did you or do you have any pics ( i know, i know, alot to ask for) i'm not exactly your mr. goodwrench...
 

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I know this is super old but I switched out my neutral switch and it was great for 3 months or so. Now I'm having the same issue again.
This is weird


For a couple thousand miles, I've been living with this annoying intermittent neutral indicator light problem. The green N neutral indicator light on my 2007 VTX 1800R would flicker, and not come on every time it was supposed to. Yeah I know, I'm picky, but I like stuff to work. This problem occurred only when the bike was fully warmed up/hot, after a few miles of riding. I would come to a stop in gear, clutch level pulled in, click gear shifter into neutral, (no green N light), slowly let out the clutch lever making sure bike is actually in neutral, and once clutch lever was fully let out, green N light would come on. I had no difficulty shifting into or finding neutral. Just that the light would not come on, especially when clutch lever was pulled in.

After some Googling, I came across some other posts pointing me toward the neutral switch. Finally got around to changing it, and sure enough, it solved my problem.
Thank you!!!!!!!! :mosh:

I understand wear over time will cause it to lose contact. But my bike only had about 20000 miles total when it started happening. Seems like it should last longer than that. They should make the spring contact shaft thingy two inches long or something. Oh well, least it's an easy fix.

The switch was only $12. For 2007 VTX 1800R1:
neutral switch: part # 35600-KE8-003
neutral switch washer: part # 90443-MJ6-000
When you order the neutral switch, on the parts finder diagrams, it is under CRANKCASE section. #10 & 26 for my bike (Took me forever to find it.)

I did not replace the washer, (I forgot to order it), but the old one seemed fine, and have no leaks after test ride. If I did it again I would, it's only $2.50.
I had read something about filing down the old washer to get the old switch to make contact again, but I thought for 12 bucks, best to replace it. Plus I'd probably file it down crooked and get an oil leak.

BTW: Based on what I read, I had pan and towels ready for an BP/Exxon Valdez type oil spill when removing the neutral switch. But no oil came out when I removed it. The bike was cold, had been sitting for more than a day. (yes, my oil level is good.)

REFERENCES:
Service manual PDF: 19-11
Clymer manual VTX1800: p.263
https://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php?t=62292
https://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthread.php?294523-Neutral-light
2007 R1: https://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_sect...y=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=2007&fveh=12160

Just wanted to document my experience, and share pics:


 

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If it came back that quick you either got a faulty switch, or more likely didn't clean up the surfaces sufficiently. That switch is just that, a switch! When you put the bike into neutral the switch closes a path to Ground, basically the entire bike is the ground system and is all bonded together and tied to the minus terminal of the battery(-). Remove the switch and make sure all the connections (wire to switch, body of switch, washer surfaces and the engine case around the area where the switch screws into) are shinny clean and if you have an Ohm meter you can also test the switch for continuity by pushing the button in and out while holding one lead on the body of the switch and the other on the connector where the wire goes and you should see the meter changing state while in the Ohm scale.
 

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So do I, I replaced mine because of this issue than a few months later when it was got out same problem. I may pull the switch clean it up and reinsert it. if it happens again I'm going to ground the wire and just have the light on all the time.

I know this is super old but I switched out my neutral switch and it was great for 3 months or so. Now I'm having the same issue again.
This is weird
 

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Thanks for the information I'll check this out :cool:

If it came back that quick you either got a faulty switch, or more likely didn't clean up the surfaces sufficiently. That switch is just that, a switch! When you put the bike into neutral the switch closes a path to Ground, basically the entire bike is the ground system and is all bonded together and tied to the minus terminal of the battery(-). Remove the switch and make sure all the connections (wire to switch, body of switch, washer surfaces and the engine case around the area where the switch screws into) are shinny clean and if you have an Ohm meter you can also test the switch for continuity by pushing the button in and out while holding one lead on the body of the switch and the other on the connector where the wire goes and you should see the meter changing state while in the Ohm scale.
 
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