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Discussion Starter #1
My 1300 has been in the garage hooked up to the battery tender for about two weeks now. Due to cold temps during night and it only gets up in the high forties during the day. Went out to start it and deader than a door nail. I didn't look at charger before disconnecting so I don't know what it was showing. Plugged it all back together, green light, charging, good. Went back about two hours later, turned key on, headlight comes on, but no dash lights. Put the kill switch in the on position, push start button, nothing. Cycled the kick stand up and down a few times, nothing. I put a new starter switch on last month. Came out good, have ridden bike after new switch. Last thing done was installing Rivco Risers. Job went well, no complications with cables, nothing being stretched or binding. Looking for suggestions. Appreciate any help. Thanks.
 

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You have to have a good battery to begin with. Have it fully charged, THEN take it to an automotive parts house that will do a 100 -AMP- load test, not a standard 20 amp bike test. Voltage of battery means little, you can have a weak cell or more, showing 12+ volts, and it's a P.O.S. battery. A tender keeps a good battery maintained at full. It doesn't cure a sick one. Make absolutely sure the terminals are cleaned, and tightened with a wrench or socket, not a screwdriver. Make sure the tender connections are snug. One more thing- the tenders are POLARITY-sensitive. When you disconnect the plug closest the battery, you also have to pull the charger pack out of the wall AC socket. Then when re-connecting, hook up the end closest the bike first, THEN re-connect the charger pack to the AC socket. I imagine some chargers are NOT like this, but MY Battery Tender Jr. IS, but it's 8-9 years old now.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, that's the plan for today. All the lights work, nice and bright. The battery is only 3 1/2 years old, but I live in Las Vegas and the heat is the killer. My charger indicates, charging/flashing green light, charged/solid green light, and maintenance, flashing light. Anyway, off to the auto zone.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just thought of something, I did cycle the kick stand up and down a few times, but if the switch is dead, would that affect the dash lights not coming on ?
 

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I just thought of something, I did cycle the kick stand up and down a few times, but if the switch is dead, would that affect the dash lights not coming on ?
No, it would not. The lights should come on (dash and headlight) when you both turn the key on and move the kill switch to the run position (may not even have to turn the kill switch to run but I'm not sure). All the kickstand switch does is prevent the starter button from working if the kickstand is down. There may be (I do not remember for sure) additional combinations of kickstand down, being in neutral, and clutch lever pulled in that will still allow the bike to start but I am not sure. For example, I think the bike will start with the kickstand down provided you are in neutral.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok - - - -it will start with the kick stand down and in neutral, clutch out. But mine is: key on, headlight on,directional lights, work no dash lights,dead start button. And this is a brand new start switch assembly. that was a changeling but did it and it has been working fine. I still have to take the battery for a load test.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So it turns out it wasn't the battery. Had a 200amp load test done and the battery passed with no problem. Put it back in and cleaned the connections and tightened post connectors with a socket rather than screw driver. Ta daaa, starts right up. However - - - - - -the dash lights don't come on. The turn signal lights work, but no oil light, no neutral light, and no speedometer. I checked fuses, all good, checked the two connectors under gas tank, good. I'm baffled. Appreciate any thoughts or ideas as to what the problem could be. Thanks, Steve
 
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