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· Equito Passim
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Oil is a preference thing.

Anything works as long as its not "Energy Conserving".

Synthetic oil lasts longer than regular Dino oil. I use Amsoil and go 10k between changes (changing the filter out at 5k).

Plenty of threads on this subject. Click search at the top of the screen and search "OIL" and you will have plenty of reading.

-Gonz


-Gonz
 

· Gator for life
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I just bought an 08' vtx 1300 this spring and am about to do my first oil change on it. I was just wondering what different types of oil everyone uses on their bike.

Thanks[/QUOTE

Congrats on the new bike. I used Shell Rotella T dino oil, 15W40 for the heat down here in Florida, and a Fram extra guard filter. Oil was 13.00 at Wallyworld for a gallon. The only thing you DO NOT want to use is any "energy conserving" oil, in case you didn't know that.
 

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I use Rotella from Wally World $13 a gal, 15/40.
You probably want to go with 10/40 up there.
That is if you choose dino oil.
I'd suggest changing the filter as well while you're at it.
Paul
 

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I agree with what Gonzo said...your question is open ended for answers and there are a number of threads in search on the subject. That being said...bottomline...because of the wet clutch...energy conserving is not good (with the star shaped emblem) because of friction modifiers. This is usually 30 weight and below.

Top choices, after six+ years on the X watching what other people use...synthetic is Amsoil, Mobile 1 or Rotella as the top choices. For dino...all over the map from Honda, car oils, and general motorcycle oil.

Bottomline...change often seems to be the key for long life. How often is another one of those open ended questions...like religion...can have many viewpoints. I think it really boils down to how often and the climate one rides in. 3-4K seems to be the general consensus on dino and 8-10K on synthetic. Now, for sure, there are guys that go longer on dino because the book says so...their bike and their call. It has been difficult to prove engine failure do to oil...albeit I have read few and far between piston failures that could, the operative word could, be do to oil or it could be to lugging the bike.

Good luck eitherway...lots of threads, how to, and video on oil changes...now don't ask me about oil filters...another one of those no right answer questions.

Bull
 

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I'm currently using Redline 10w40. In addition to avoiding energy conserving oil, I'd stay away from regular car oil as well. The additive package/viscosity modifiers don't hold up to the high shearing forces they experience in the transmission and clutch. Any motorcycle oil will generally have an additive package designed for this, and the Shell Rotella has a commercial additive package which from what I've heard holds up well. (I've used it myself in the past.) The JASO MA certification is going to be on oil designed for wet clutch operation.
 
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