Honda VTX 1300 / VTX 1800 Motorcycles Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Fastest Red Club Member
Joined
·
7,018 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Not sure if anyone has done this yet but I took some pictures of carb when I was doing my jet kit work.

Might be helpful to some here.


This is what carb looks like with the airbox off.




This is the screw that needs to be loosened to pull the carb off the manifold before doing jet work.



To get the bowl off the bottom of the carb this cotter pin needs to be removed.
Also remove the screws on bottom. :)



This is the bottom of carb with bowl removed, showing jet locations.



A/F screw location.



I did not take picture of the vacuum chamber parts I think that is covered pretty well in the scar write up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Is it possible to replace the a/f adjustment screw with the Glen's permanent one without removing the tank/air filter/carb. ? Is there anyway of adjusting it without taking it all apart?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
I have never worked much on carbs and these pics are great. One thing is I see where guys are talking about installing spacers and clipping in a differant notch. Any pics of those would be appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
719 Posts
Very nice photos and illustrations. The VTX Cafe is the best!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
247 Posts
Awsome pics! I know they will be very usefull in the future.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,670 Posts
You have to take the tank/air box off to install Glen's AF needle. After it is installed, you can adjust the AF just by bending over and turning the knob. If you don't have Glen's permanent needle, you have to use a long, blind adjustment tool. In my experience, virtually impossible to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Is it possible to replace the a/f adjustment screw with the Glen's permanent one without removing the tank/air filter/carb. ? Is there anyway of adjusting it without taking it all apart?
Pretty much: No unless you have already replaced the airbox with something else that can be removed without taking off the tank. It is best to have everything off anyways so that you make sure you get all of the little parts out of there. (Trust me I know... I had a o-ring break up and thought I had it out completely on another bike but since I didn't take the carb completely out, I never saw the minuscule piece stuck up in there until I pulled the carbs and cleaned them several times then checked it and found it. It was a bitch to get out)
 

·
Pursuing Perfection
Joined
·
5,859 Posts
I took some pictures of carb when I was doing my jet kit work.

Might be helpful to some here.




This is the bottom of carb with bowl removed, showing jet locations.



A/F screw location.
Finally - I can't believe it took 6 years before someone actually took decent views of the 13's Carb.
Man - we've waited forever for you to get Here....

Now for all of you that have this -
are you taking advantage of drain screw at least once a week to eliminate carb issues with water?

Back in Time when all of us had carbs - we always drained them - and some of us had 6 carbs (CBX) -
and always got water in saved samples.

With what I know now - I'd install 1/4 turn mini ball valve to do a quick drain to sample jar in 3 seconds.
If you all had your own single engine plane - you'd be doing this first thing as you walked up to it.
 

·
Fastest Red Club Member
Joined
·
7,018 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Actually forgot about this thread.

I have tank off now (coolant leak fixed) so might take pictures of the vacuum chamber.

Just need warm weather...I'm not working in the shed when it is < 35. lol
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top