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Discussion Starter #1
Bought my 2004 1300C last summer and it ran fine. This spring, after the bike sat through the winter, I have been having recurring wet black plugs that I can clean up or replace to fix the problem temporarily, but if my bike sits for a few days and I start it up again the plugs will get wet and the bike will run shitty again (delayed throttle response, chugging, idles like crap).

I drained the gas, ran multiple cycles of seafoam through the gas line, used a gas conditioner to remove any excess water, changed the oil (making sure not to overfill), cleaned the air filter and still it keeps doing the same thing.

I've done a bit of research online and I'm starting wonder if the valves need an adjustment as I'm not sure if the previous owner did them at 6k like he should have. Is this the same as adjusting the AF screw?
The bike is around 7k miles.
Any suggestions??

I'm considering ordering this permanent AF screw from Glen if I'm going to bother getting into the carb but I'm also wondering if I should just do the SCAR mod while I'm in there as the bike has the Kuryakyn Hyper Charger on it.
Also considering addition of a Factory Pro Stage 3 jet kit...

Does it sound like I'm on the right track? The farthest I've got on bike maintenance at this point is just the easy stuff (fuel filters, oil changes etc.) and I'd like to learn to do the rest as well.

Cheers guys,
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If it has the hyper then odds are it has the jets in there that came with the kit.
Jets are garbage order a factory pro kit and so a good cleaning of the carb when you install them.
Thanks Charlie,
Is there any way to tell if a factory pro kit is already installed before I order it without taking the bike apart?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
no real easy way.

You would need to pull the float bowl and then the low speed jet.

Kury sends a 65 with their kit and a 60 is the largest you would ever need.
Sorry I'm not familiar with what you're referring to. What is a 65? the low jet speed?
Thx
 

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yes 65 is the low speed. What Charlie is telling you is your flooding the bike. The FP jet kit really is your best option.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
yes 65 is the low speed. What Charlie is telling you is your flooding the bike. The FP jet kit really is your best option.
Great thanks!
So I guess my next question is where's the cheapest place to order the kits from?

NM I ordered straight from FP..amazon.com won't ship that part to canada pffffft

So do you guys think that after running fine last year all of a sudden the bike would start flooding now like this?
I mean, I'm gonna change the jets, do the SCAR mod and adjust the AF now but I just don't understand why
it started to be a problem this spring out of the blue...
 

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Poor starting -Donut

I read your post.
Have you been using the choke. That's a NO NO.
Read my post below.
Factory pro ?
If you are running stock exhaust - probably not necessary because you need to open up both ends Exhaust/Carb.
If you do go the FP it will depend on what exact setup you have.
The 58 in the kit will help on low end up to 1500 rpm's. It will also help on starting.
Here is my setup and it runs great.
Vance & Hines Big Shots.
De-Capped air box.
K&N air filter
F/P Kit 58 - 215 4 clip and a/f at 1-3/4.
I have Glen's permanent A/F adjuster which makes fine adjustments a snap.
OK now for an example. My bike sat for three weeks because of all the rain and yesterday I rolled my bike out of the cargo trailer and didn't touch anything (No choke and no twist of the throttle) I hit the starter button ans it started and just kept running and never died. I did after starting set my throttle lock on for a minute so it would idle a little higher. (the idle will increase as it gets warmer). Never a miss - it just starts and runs.

Now read this.

I don’t know why but it seems that a lot of bikes run fine when
new but after a couple years they seem to start having trouble.
OK some may be able to get away with using the choke but that
may have to do with when the set the carb during assembly.
However most of the time when someone is having trouble
starting their bikes it is usually due to using the
choke/enhancer and fouling the plugs. The choke in these bikes
isn't like the old fashion butterfly you are use to on older
types engines. The choke/enhancer actually dumps a whole lot of
gas directly into the cylinder and fouling the plugs. This is
all caused by the manufacture setting the A/F lean (1 5/8)
turns open to be able to pass EPA standards. If you set the A/f
at 2.5 turns open - most of the time you will not even need to
use the choke even when it is cold out.
Hers a link;
Glen's VTX Garage
http://www.glensvtxgarage.com/
I hope this helps.
Donut
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey Donut,
Thanks very much for your reply.
I make sure not to choke my bike excessively however, I had used the choke
a bit at the very beginning of the season when it was still quite cold out. That was weeks ago though and I haven't since.
I have the permanent A/F adjuster on order and I'm hoping that will help.
Not sure if the hypercharger is creating a problem or not because it ran fine last year so I'm hoping just adjusting the AF will do the trick.

As far as the FP goes, I'm not sure if these pipes are factory or not. Seems like the previous owner upgraded almost everything on the bike so I was under the impression they weren't stock but I'm not 100% sure about that.

Will putting the FP on hurt anything even if they are stock pipes?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Oh good...because I have that FP on the way too

And what exactly is the point of this SCAR mod?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey Guys,

So today I go to start the bike and it starts up no problem, runs for about 3 minutes with progressively worsening sputtering and then dies.
When I try start it up again it puffs some white smoke out the pipes and dies, every time.
On top of that, I hear what I would almost describe as a bubbling but not really fluid like coming from the engine near the front and every time just as it dies it 'pops' a small puff of air out my hypercharger....
Now I'm super choked and I have no idea if this is just worsening of my original problem or something else but I'm freaking out here.

WTF
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Take the vacuum line off the hyper and take it down to the auto parts store tell them you want 2 foot of that size line.

Now get to work and replace all the vacuum lines to the carb and hyper.
Thanks Charlie
Is that something I can do without taking the carb off? Or should I wait
until the FP and the permanent AF adjusting tool are here so I can do it all
at once?
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Discussion Starter #17
seat and tank come off is all so you can see where everything gos.

Kury sends line that is rotten in just a few months of use and vacuum leaks cause many problems.
Ok got the hose... Just replace every hose to the carb? Or just specific ones?
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I would replace them all just to make sure none leak.

Remember you can always cut twice if needed but if you cut to short you start over.

If you don't have the pair valves any longer it is real simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok so it turns out some of these vaccuum lines were different sizes and I was only able to replace a few tonight.
The arrows in red were the ones I replaced and in yellow I couldn't.
I think the main one I needed to replace was yellow coming off the back of the hypercharger but I took a different one in when I bought the new ones figuring they were all the same and it didn't work out.
I'll go get more tomorrow.

After replacing these ones, I tried starting it up again just pouring the gas directly in the line, and it puttered and then blew white smoke out of the line with the arrow in the last picture....which i believe is the vacuum line
 

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You only need to replace the ones you have marked yellow.
You also have all the smog (pair valve) stuff in place.

The line in the last pic is for the petcock vacuum

So you would have a short section out of the manifold then a tee fitting from that you run to the petcock and another line around the front of the carb another tee fitting there and hook the line to the air cut off valve on the carb then another short piece and a tee one line to the pair valvs and the other to the Hypercharger pod.

the other ones you have marked are for the crankcase breather and positive vent for the carb bowl then the last larger line gos to the air inlet for the pair valves.

You only need to worry about the size line you purchased
 
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