Looking to polish the rims on my 1300r. I have access to the clay compounds used by RC componets here in bowling green. The compounds come in a green and black color with a diffenent type of buffing wheel. You buff with the side instead of the center. Any of you use this on the rims of the 1300r? If so how did it turn out with the small ridges in the rim that come from milling them from the manufacture?
Polishing rims
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In order to properly do it, you have to sand down the ridges with a 400 grit then 600. then 600 wet. After that buff with a heavy compound, grey, then red and finally white.motoman said:
MAKE SURE YOU COVER YOUR BEARINGS. They are silled, but take no chances!!!.
Good luck.:cheers:
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I went a step futher on my fork legs and wet sanded with 1000 grit. Then just went to the white compound. If you don't sand out the machine lines you're just spinning your wheels. This process takes time, and the more time spent the better the finished product will be.motoman said:
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I havent polished the "R" rims but have the "C" rims. It took about 12 hours per rim. The way I did it was like this....no sanding and used a spirel sewn 6" polish wheel on a slow 2400 RPM drill using the black emory first. After getting the machining ridges out I went with liquid white diamond polish and they turned out great. These were the first aluminum parts I had ever polished and was learning the best process as I went. For best results you need atleast a 3200 RPM drill. I have tried all kinds of processes, sanding, no sanding, wet sanding and found it really depends on the part your polishing. The rims don't really need sanding first to get good results just start off with the black emory and your good. Forks and final drives require sanding to get good results. You can learn allot about polishing at www.caswellplating.com be sure to post pictures of your rims when your done. Here are a couple pics of my rims on the scoot after polishing
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Is there any wheel that looks as good on a Retro than a C? If so I haven't seen them. Black R with Polished Cs and Big 3s. Can it get any better? Super Nice Bike!!!!!!! Oh yeah, Thanks for the link BAD X.BadX said:I havent polished the "R" rims but have the "C" rims. It took about 12 hours per rim. The way I did it was like this....no sanding and used a spirel sewn 6" polish wheel on a slow 2400 RPM drill using the black emory first. After getting the machining ridges out I went with liquid white diamond polish and they turned out great. These were the first aluminum parts I had ever polished and was learning the best process as I went. For best results you need atleast a 3200 RPM drill. I have tried all kinds of processes, sanding, no sanding, wet sanding and found it really depends on the part your polishing. The rims don't really need sanding first to get good results just start off with the black emory and your good. Forks and final drives require sanding to get good results. You can learn allot about polishing at www.caswellplating.com be sure to post pictures of your rims when your done. Here are a couple pics of my rims on the scoot after polishing
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I'm confused? What's the difference in a polished wheel and a chrome wheel? Green ghosts wheels look chrome to me.
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Confused
This is not my bike, But mine looks a lot like this, Black/Green Ghost Flames, Big 3s, 6 degree trees, Polished C wheels, Polished Frok Legs,Hypercharger, Stinger, Kury drive shaft & swingarm covers, Chrome singarm boss covers, Clear alternatives, ISO grips, Braided lines, Supreme Pro Smooth Forward Controls, Kury LEDs,and pretty much everything elese chromed. Back to the question. Chrome is a hard coat that lasts for years if done right, but not to many people do it right, It will crack, pit, scrach, and blue with heat. Not to mention, pill, turn white,and a lot of other stuff. Polishing will also last a lifetime, But it is harder to maintain a mirror finish than chrome. It just don't hold it's luster as good. There are products on the market that seal your part after you polish it. Zoop- Seal says it will keep it's luster for up to two years. And by the way, I think the Super Looking R model you see in the photo belongs to BAD X.razorbak57 said:
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polished wheels look good but chrome wheels look great. The biggest part is $$$. Once the wheels are polished the cleaning-as for looks-is easier and quicker. It does help a lot to sand the wheels first-cuts down on labor and time. The retro wheel is easier to polish than the c wheel because of the cut outs, but that depends on the person doing the work.
You want to maintain 7,000-7,200 rpm's at the end of the wheel. A hand drill the has 3,000 rpms and a 6" polishing/buffing wheel is very close to that. When using the black compound use the center of the wheel and pull toward you-against the direction the wheel is turning-to cut or to remove scratches. Go with the direction and the side of the wheel to polish, less pressure helps to.
I to only use up to 600 grit sand paper, I do not dry sand at all, only wet sand and keep the sand paper and wheel clean, I use a spray bottle with water every 3-4 min... Dry sanding will cause scratches and more work later on when polishing. It takes me around 4-6 hours to do a wheel and about 2 hours per fork.
I get my compounds and polishing wheels now at lowes, walk in walk out instead of ordering. I have used casewellplating compounds with good results, their compounds are a larger bar than that of lowes. Do not buy a ploshing kit, It comes with 4" wheels not good. but the sisal wheels do help to remove the deep scratches. I finish with mothers billet polish compound but I warm it to liquid from the paste form. There are a lot of good compounds to finish/maintain the look. I use mothers mainly because it is available close by and works good.
The metal must get hot in order for the grease compounds to work it's best. When I am polshing small stuff, brake reservior's, bolt heads etc., they get almost to hot to hold in my hand/touch.
good luck on your project
dirtdobber
atriot:
You want to maintain 7,000-7,200 rpm's at the end of the wheel. A hand drill the has 3,000 rpms and a 6" polishing/buffing wheel is very close to that. When using the black compound use the center of the wheel and pull toward you-against the direction the wheel is turning-to cut or to remove scratches. Go with the direction and the side of the wheel to polish, less pressure helps to.
I to only use up to 600 grit sand paper, I do not dry sand at all, only wet sand and keep the sand paper and wheel clean, I use a spray bottle with water every 3-4 min... Dry sanding will cause scratches and more work later on when polishing. It takes me around 4-6 hours to do a wheel and about 2 hours per fork.
I get my compounds and polishing wheels now at lowes, walk in walk out instead of ordering. I have used casewellplating compounds with good results, their compounds are a larger bar than that of lowes. Do not buy a ploshing kit, It comes with 4" wheels not good. but the sisal wheels do help to remove the deep scratches. I finish with mothers billet polish compound but I warm it to liquid from the paste form. There are a lot of good compounds to finish/maintain the look. I use mothers mainly because it is available close by and works good.
The metal must get hot in order for the grease compounds to work it's best. When I am polshing small stuff, brake reservior's, bolt heads etc., they get almost to hot to hold in my hand/touch.
good luck on your project
dirtdobber
atriot:BadX said:I havent polished the "R" rims but have the "C" rims. It took about 12 hours per rim. The way I did it was like this....no sanding and used a spirel sewn 6" polish wheel on a slow 2400 RPM drill using the black emory first. After getting the machining ridges out I went with liquid white diamond polish and they turned out great. These were the first aluminum parts I had ever polished and was learning the best process as I went. For best results you need atleast a 3200 RPM drill. I have tried all kinds of processes, sanding, no sanding, wet sanding and found it really depends on the part your polishing. The rims don't really need sanding first to get good results just start off with the black emory and your good. Forks and final drives require sanding to get good results. You can learn allot about polishing at www.caswellplating.com be sure to post pictures of your rims when your done. Here are a couple pics of my rims on the scoot after polishing
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Ahhh that's beautiful!! :icon_gran
I can see that there are a few accessories I can buy....
How do you get that solo seat look?
Can I just remove my passenger seat?
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What kind of pipes are those? Really like the looks of them. Yea, and thanks guys for all the tips. I am going to use the mothers polish on them for know. Really shines them up great. But am going to remove the wheels this winter and put the sand paper on them and polish.BadX said:I havent polished the "R" rims but have the "C" rims. It took about 12 hours per rim. The way I did it was like this....no sanding and used a spirel sewn 6" polish wheel on a slow 2400 RPM drill using the black emory first. After getting the machining ridges out I went with liquid white diamond polish and they turned out great. These were the first aluminum parts I had ever polished and was learning the best process as I went. For best results you need atleast a 3200 RPM drill. I have tried all kinds of processes, sanding, no sanding, wet sanding and found it really depends on the part your polishing. The rims don't really need sanding first to get good results just start off with the black emory and your good. Forks and final drives require sanding to get good results. You can learn allot about polishing at www.caswellplating.com be sure to post pictures of your rims when your done. Here are a couple pics of my rims on the scoot after polishing
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The solo seat is the stock seat that I modified. Just remove the passenger pillion and your solo.go_go_go_johnny_go_go_go said:
The pipes are Hard Krome 3" Big Straights. The bike don't look like that anymore. Its got a 240 tire and raked out front end and it now resides in MN.
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