Honda VTX 1300 / VTX 1800 Motorcycles Forum banner

41 - 60 of 763 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Be careful how much you power from the fuse block if you don't run it thru a relay and use a trigger wire that shuts the power off when you push the starter button or you will fry your starter button. I used the blue/white wire in the headlight bucket as a trigger for the relay. This kills power to fuse block when starting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
This is my next winter mod after I get the front end back on. Great write up and pics. Really good looking puppy avatar. Thanks for the info. bill
 

·
The Wanderer
Joined
·
6,665 Posts
This is what I'm going to use because I bought it 6 mos ago and paid over $100 for it, I can't return it so I have to use it. Story of my life. 3 switched circuits and 2 unswitched power. If the draw is low enough you could double wiring and not hurt anything. Wiring harness is set up so nothing can feed back to the electrical system which is great.

By wanderingbear

WB, I just put in the same panel yesterday I ran a relay that is fuse protected to it and then ran two relays from it one to the upgraded horn and one to the lightbar. I'm still going to run one additional for a power point.
This a is definetly a top of the line product use it!;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
fuse block mod

Hey Jeff, looks like a fantastic idea and great way to get some extra crap hooked up to the bike,i'm wondering how much we can add before it becomes a problem for the battery or charging system. All in all neat job. Ron aka plumber
 

·
Cafe Vendor
Joined
·
3,785 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
Hey Jeff, looks like a fantastic idea and great way to get some extra crap hooked up to the bike,i'm wondering how much we can add before it becomes a problem for the battery or charging system. All in all neat job. Ron aka plumber
Thanks Plumber,

Our VTX alternator has a capacity of 364 watts or approximately 30 amps. All of our standard bulbs add up to 170 watts max (high beam on, turn signals flashing, etc).

Items that use power for a short period like a horn should not be of concern for loading up the system. However, driving lights, which we generally always leave on should be taken into consideration. While it is doubtful our standard lights would pull 170 watts for extended period, I personally use that figure as I add more to the bike. That way I have a safety margin. Using my figures

364 max watts - 170 standard lighting watts = 194 available watts

A set of standard 55 watt driving lights will only leave 84 watts leftover.

Again, remember my numbers have a certain amount of safety margin in them. You can use Ohms Law formula to figure your usages.

Power (Watts) = Voltage X Current. Example 55 Watt light / 12 volts = draws 4.6 amps

Hope this helps some.

Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Quick question. A couple of months ago I saw a post which showed how to create a relay panel from aluminum in the V just above the battery cavity. It would be agreat compliment to the above. If you remember please post!
 

·
Lady Rider
Joined
·
870 Posts
Quick question. A couple of months ago I saw a post which showed how to create a relay panel from aluminum in the V just above the battery cavity. It would be agreat compliment to the above. If you remember please post!
Is this what you're talking about.

I installed the box that Phil refers to (I think I told him about it
) a couple weeks ago and it is awesome! It does have screw terminals as well as separate ground connections. I also made a relay holder out of some aluminum. I saw someone else on here with something like that, maybe it was Poison? I used some aluminum that I have, cut it, bent it, and then used some 1/4" diameter tubing (the kind you might use for a water dispenser) to wrap the edges so they wouldn't rub against any wires. If someone wants the dimension I used, let me know and I can find where I wrote them down and post them. I drilled a hole where the stock wire holder connects to the battery holder and just use the same screw to mount my relay holder. The extra hole on the left by the tank is for using a zip tie to keep things secure, but I haven't buttoned it up yet. I bought some heavy duty Radio Shack hook and loop material (better than velcro) to use for fastening the relays to the holder: one large strip at the bottom and then a small piece on each relay. I used the same material to mount the fuse block on the storage compartment door. I tapped the brown wire in the headlight bucket, because I was tapping several wires in there, and use that to trigger my relay. I have cables connected to the battery thru the relay with some heavy gauge wire. The pics below don't show it with the cover on. I will take some later and post them.

Dave

Some pics:

Fuseblock


Relay Holder






All Done!

__________________
 

·
Solo Rider
Joined
·
146 Posts
I just finished this mod yesterday. All went well. For maybe $20 in parts, I have a great way to add more connections to my bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
+1 Kermit. I have been looking for that post for about a month. I really liked this layout but could not find it. I think this should be a sticky or "best of 2008" Mod!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,830 Posts
thanks jeff for all the extra help! here are some pics of the it all done:

i also liked the suggestion you gave me to run a 1/2" tube for any future wiring that i will have to do without having to remove the gas tank.

 

·
GreatLakesRoadRiders.org
Joined
·
1,410 Posts
i also liked the suggestion you gave me to run a 1/2" tube for any future wiring that i will have to do without having to remove the gas tank.
Can you clarify? Just zip tie a piece pf 1/2" PVC in there somewhere, to send wires thru as needed? Thanks
 

·
Cafe Vendor
Joined
·
3,785 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
Can you clarify? Just zip tie a piece pf 1/2" PVC in there somewhere, to send wires thru as needed? Thanks
Hi Chino,
I was working with Omar (footprintsinconc) over the phone with some of his wiring questions. I told him that I had run a piece of 1/2" plastic loom (blcak ribbed stuff) from the seat area up to the neck under the tank. That way I would not need to pull the tank for future mods where I needed some wires up front. I could just fish the new wires up to the front, easy-peasy:D PVC would work also just make sure it is flexible, Right side of our backbone has the most access but you might want to cross over up front and have it come out the Left side with the bulk of the OEM wiring. I cut it off so that it does not protrude past the neck cover.


Jeff
Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,830 Posts
oops, sorry chino, i didnt see your post earlier. its good to see jeff has answered your question.
 

·
Currently in Chrome Rehab
Joined
·
3,526 Posts
Lookin good Judge. I see you got 2 circuits left...maybe some Electrified Chrome:hmm2::hmm2:
they make that?
LMAO
.....I gotta have it!
Im going to add LEDs to the bike one of these days.
Ill use one for that. I m going to keep them separate from the leds in the hypercharger cause I run that all the time at night...looks cool.
But I wont be able to run the others moving here in Va so the need to keep them on separate circuits. Probably never use the last one.
Cant think of a reason Id need to.

One thing I did was label the fuses as to what they do.
If you blow one a year from now, just easier to see what it is instead of trying to remember or pull them all looking for the one you want.

BTW...this mod was easier to do than making up my mind where to mount a switch was!
 

·
[email protected]#$ Happens...
Joined
·
431 Posts
+1 on the post and the write up. I thought about trying to find a punch down block for phone wiring. Use one side for the ground and one for the negative then I started thinking about how I would fuse everything. That's what I was looking for. :patriot:
 
41 - 60 of 763 Posts
Top