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From your discussion of the late model VTX1300 bikes being leaner than previous years, it sounds like I should have my '06 VTX1300C checked out on a dyno. I should probably go ahead and substitute the K&N filter for the stock type at that time, right?

I get about 145 miles or slightly more to reserve, and I am one of those "lucky" people that have the hammering (metallic) sound under acceleration loading, so jetting might be a good idea from several viewpoints.
I actually like the stock pipe sound, but with the banging I can't hear it much.

Except for EPA stuff, I can't see a little more rich hurting anything much. What do you think?

Fuzzy :choppersm
 
I wouldn't even bother with a dyno, unless you want to see what you have at the rear wheel or something. If you add a K&N to a stock box, with stock pipes, you can just shim your needle on the carb using the "Scar" method. It's talked about in the thread on this forum labled "Question & Help re: Intake & Pipes" or on www.vtxoa.com under the thread "Carb Tuning Simplified." With K&N, stock box and stock pipes, you can probably try 1 shim and the A/F ratio at 2&1/2 turns which should most likely have it running pretty good.
 
Air Filter Replacement

Re the filter, my vtx1300R has about 10,000 miles on it. The filter has a spot that is blackened some. The remainder doesn't look very dirty. My question is should I replace it? Should I use stock filter? Why did you go to K & N?
Does anyone know where filter for this bike can be purchased without breaking the piggy bank? Sorry for all the Questins!!
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
The stock filters are relatively cheap, a K&N will set you back $50 or so. However, the K&N lets the motor breathe better and will last the life of your bike.. The stock filter restricts the airflow.
 
Re the filter, my vtx1300R has about 10,000 miles on it. The filter has a spot that is blackened some. The remainder doesn't look very dirty. My question is should I replace it? Should I use stock filter? Why did you go to K & N?
Does anyone know where filter for this bike can be purchased without breaking the piggy bank? Sorry for all the Questins!!
I went with the K & N after about 2 months of ownership of my 2006R, i've never rejeted and also did the shallow clayton mod (drilled only the back of the muffler out not the inside baffles:icon_buil , 5 ea. 5/8" holes per muffler). My bike runs well and dyno'd at 58.9 on power side, top end run at 128mph (of course everyone will tell you a vtx can only do 113, so what do I know). I don't plan on rejeting unless she starts coughing or backfiring and neither of those have happened.
 
If I add a K&N replacement air filter (HA-1330) to my '06 1300C with stock pipes, will I have to re-jet the carb?
It's alway's been my position that it depends on where you live. Being that you're in Tampa and near sea level, your O2 levels are high so the bike get's more air as here in AZ. If you lived in parts of Colorado or Flagstaff Arizona for example 1.5 hours from right here in Phoenix.....elavations over 7000, the bike is going to run rich and may actually need to be jetted down to be perfect. My personal thought is that if you just go to a K&N replacement filter you should be fine with the stock jetting. I don't believe there is alot of difference in airflow from a stock filter. If you upgrade to an open air kit such as the BAK, that would require a jetting.
 
Even a totally stock bike will run lots better, start easier, and not need the choke if you rejet/tune but do so ONLY with a Factory Pro jet kit and NOT a Dynojet jet kit. Also, install Glen's permanent A/F screw and do not just buy a couple of jets and install them. The replacement needle in the FP jet kit is a crucial part of the good tune available with that kit.
 
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