:cheers:Combine the two methods & you can't go wrong, it seems harder than it actually is, the first time will take you longer than you think it should & that's a good thing, you're not rushing, after that, it'll take you longer to get everything off than it takes to do the check/adjustment. If you don't think you've done it right, do not be afraid to double, or even triple check your work, better safe than sorry.d this
I recommend you do your Valves Poison's way with My add way Donut's Way This is a tried and true way of doing them. There has been a lot of first time VTX'ers that have had great success doing Poision's and my way.
Hope this will help and make things easier.
Poison has an excellent write-up procedure on doing the valve adjustment.
http://vtx1300tips.com/Valveadjustingbypoision.pdf
And I would also recommend adding and doing it my way to it.
Donut's Way.
Remember that each person with a feeler gauge may have a little different feeling or opinion with a gauge. When you make the adjustment make sure the gauge is not real long and that it is bent about 1/2 inch in from the end so it doesn't touch the rim around the valve adjusting opening the cant be on an angle. If the gauge has to much friction on it then it will be tight. You should have a hard time inserting the next size larger gauge in. I always check with three gauges. One above and one below the proper gauge.
Remember you will always here light ticking due to the gap that you set in the valve. No ticking I would be worried light ticking OK loud ticking the valves is too loose.
Once you set the valves Don't touch the 4mm or the 10mm nut. Just rotate the engine until you see both valves intake/exhaust move and off TDC or are tight, about 180* and then only touch and tighten the 10mm. Don't touch the 4mm.
Then rotate the engine forward and recheck everything at the FT point (for front) and RT (for rear) on the compression stroke again.
Also tie some string to the gauges - you don't want to drop anything in there as some have done.
You can also place your finger over the plug opening and you will feel pressure building up on the compression stroke --But only remove one plug in each front and rear cylinder.
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Donut's Way.
Doug
Here is the wrench you will need to make it easier.
Sears/Kmart
Craftsman Professional 10 x 11mm Full Polish Deep Offset Wrench, 12 pt. Box End
Part number 44360.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944360000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=
Donut/Dougatriot:Vet
Quick valve adjust question
Ok, got all the chrome off and ready (maybe..... ) to get started checking the valves. Quick question. I removed the timing cover and it didn't look anything like what I imagined...
I guess in my mind I expected the large timing bolt (if that's what it's called) to be dead center in the hole after I removed the cover... But it's sitting around nine o'clock at the rear (left if looking straight into the hole) of the hole... Is this right? ... Or were my expectations flawed...
Anyone? I can snap a picture if my explanation isn't making sense...
Thanks
:beer:
Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk
) to get started checking the valves. Quick question. I removed the timing cover and it didn't look anything like what I imagined...I guess in my mind I expected the large timing bolt (if that's what it's called) to be dead center in the hole after I removed the cover... But it's sitting around nine o'clock at the rear (left if looking straight into the hole) of the hole... Is this right? ... Or were my expectations flawed...
Anyone? I can snap a picture if my explanation isn't making sense...
Thanks
:beer:
Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk
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