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Discussion Starter #1
Note:
Changes or modifications to original equipment (bike) configuration have not been approved or tested by the factory.
If you attempt or make modifications to your equipment, the responsibility is yours for any damage to your equipment, as well as any required testing and safety issues are yours alone.
This post is for informational purposes only, and is for entertainment.

Hello,
I thought this was going to be an easy modification to do, all so that I wouldn’t have to look down at my speedometer to see the LED indications “distracting”. :swear:

First I hit up VTX discussion websites to see if someone had already did this and to see how they did.

Not finding anything by searching old posts, I put out a post for help:

Normal line of site of warning lights, no looking down!


This did get a few, helpful hints, and even one person that had done something similar to what I was trying to do. They gave me some information on what they remembered which was very beneficial. THANK YOU! :bigarmhug:

So on to my latest mod:

First I went on EBay ordered a bunch of different color LED’s to install (around $5.00), to the upper part of my batwing fairing. I got plain water resistant LED’s (didn’t know exactly how they would work out). EBay also has LED’s that have displays such as (arrows, fuel pump, ect…) maybe later I’ll swap them out, they are bit more pricy though.

I also ordered up a couple of water resistant multi-connection connectors to be able to easily disconnect the batwing from the bikes wiring too.

Next I needed to dig out my Clymer repair manual so I could follow the wiring diagram for my 2006 1800S. This was a problem as it shows color coded lines that are very hard to tell what each color line is with many of them having two colors on them.

Luckily I found a copy on https://tech.bareasschoppers.com/ that had words for the colors rather than the colors themselves this was a god send. :swoon:

When the LED’s came in I dug right in, pulled the seats, and gas tank so I could get to the wiring.


BIG NOTE:
The LED’s have a Red and Black leads (wires) on them to indicate normal polarity Red +, and Black -
I made a an (LED test cable) to check the wires and connections, I soldered a sewing needle to one leg (input) of an LED, on the other leg first I put an inline fuse (to protect my bikes wiring) and then I soldered a sewing needle on end of the wire. I’ll include a picture, you know “worth at thousand words and all”.

I had a pretty good idea where I wanted to tie into the wiring harness; I picked the bike side of the two connectors of the wiring leads bundles going to the speedometer (the wires look to be about a size 18 or 20).


I used my (LED test cable) to check and insure I have the right cable by first poking one of the sewing needles thru the insulation of one of the wires (using the wiring diagram as a guide).

Well for the most part everything went pretty well, although there are several similar colored wires in each wiring leads bundles.

Next issue is that some of the LED’s on the speedometer are reverse fed: where you’re not adding a positive signal to complete the circuit to light the LED, but, instead adding a negative signal to complete the circuit.


1. Anyway as I identified each wire I would strip the top of the insulation of the wire back about ¼”, then use a small screwdriver to reach in between the insulation and the wire and put a bend in it.
2. Next I would strip back ¼” on the end of the wire I am tagging in, next forming it into a J and slipping it under the opening in the other wires insulation.
3. Next I soldered them together, covered with liquid tape (a kind of rubber), finely when dry would wrap with electrical tape.

I mounted the LED’s in a piece of aluminum and pop riveted to my radios mount.

I was never able to get the temperature LED to work correctly, no matter if I put a positive or negative on the remote LED, the LED would light up (which really has me scratching my head) so I gave up on that one. :mad:


Below are photos of pretty much everything, I am happy the way it turned out, just wish it had been a bit easier.

David Hilton Ret. ETC/SS 2006 Honda VTX 1800 S.jpg Wire Diag.jpg pin.jpg wiring.jpg wire bend.jpg liquid tape.jpg dashTank.jpg dash.jpg
 

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the only person I know that could decode your information.. and provide a meaningful answer...

is Hans&Feet... over on the VTXOA..... knows electrical and can TYPE detailed information...

if he is willing to devote the Time and energy .. as this is not a 5 minute job...

< deleted >
 

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Temperature sensor should go to ground when over temp as resistance drops. At least that's my understanding. So you use that as the ground leg of the LED. I've never seen a VTX overheat and have that light actually come on though.

Good idea on the project. Nice job. :)
 

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Looks good. I'm sure you'll get the temp figured out if you were able to do that much with the others. Indy may be right on the temp thing. Did he bill you?
 

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< deleted > my Big mouth.

he has posted this on the VTXOA... so hans&feet should see it..
You don't have to delete everything. :)

Hopefully they post the solution here when they find it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
A little more information.

Hello,
A little on my background, I have 23 years as an electronic technician in the Navy, and I still work the the electronics field working with SCADA communications for the Colorado River Municipal Water District (CRMWD).
What hampered me the most while working on this modification was limited wiring diagrams, not a knowledge or skill level.
I posted this thread to help others, just in case they try do this or something similar.
I searched VTXOA and VTXcafe and didn't find any thread like this.

As I said in my thread: I posted a Help post, and got some help from you all. "again thank you"

I think maybe electronics in general scares some folks a bit, by some of the comments listed.


I don't want to alienate anyone, and I have learned a great deal from these forums.


Back to the Temp light:
I tried several different configurations.
I hooked up to the Green/ Yellow wire the the Black LED (everything I found points to the Green/ Yellow being ground lead from the fuel tank), I put 12V positive on the Red LED.
When turning on the power to the bike the added Temp LED lit up (it should have been out like the one on the speedometer).

Next I tried swapping the inputs to the LED, moving the Black LED lead to the 12V and the Red LED lead to the Green/ Yellow temperature wire.
And believe it or not the added LED lit up again, very puzzling.
An LED is a diode after all and blocks DC in one direction.
Feeling beaten by only one LED reading, I moved forward with all the new information that I had found and posted this tread for all, to use if they wanted to.


David Hilton Ret. ETC/SS :americanflag:








Hello,
I thought this was going to be an easy modification to do, all so that I wouldn’t have to look down at my speedometer to see the LED indications “distracting”. :swear:

First I hit up VTX discussion websites to see if someone had already did this and to see how they did.

Not finding anything by searching old posts, I put out a post for help:

Normal line of site of warning lights, no looking down!


This did get a few, helpful hints, and even one person that had done something similar to what I was trying to do. They gave me some information on what they remembered which was very beneficial. THANK YOU! :bigarmhug:

So on to my latest mod:

First I went on EBay ordered a bunch of different color LED’s to install (around $5.00), to the upper part of my batwing fairing. I got plain water resistant LED’s (didn’t know exactly how they would work out). EBay also has LED’s that have displays such as (arrows, fuel pump, ect…) maybe later I’ll swap them out, they are bit more pricy though.

I also ordered up a couple of water resistant multi-connection connectors to be able to easily disconnect the batwing from the bikes wiring too.

Next I needed to dig out my Clymer repair manual so I could follow the wiring diagram for my 2006 1800S. This was a problem as it shows color coded lines that are very hard to tell what each color line is with many of them having two colors on them.

Luckily I found a copy on https://tech.bareasschoppers.com/ that had words for the colors rather than the colors themselves this was a god send. :swoon:

When the LED’s came in I dug right in, pulled the seats, and gas tank so I could get to the wiring.


BIG NOTE:
The LED’s have a Red and Black leads (wires) on them to indicate normal polarity Red +, and Black -
I made a an (LED test cable) to check the wires and connections, I soldered a sewing needle to one leg (input) of an LED, on the other leg first I put an inline fuse (to protect my bikes wiring) and then I soldered a sewing needle on end of the wire. I’ll include a picture, you know “worth at thousand words and all”.

I had a pretty good idea where I wanted to tie into the wiring harness; I picked the bike side of the two connectors of the wiring leads bundles going to the speedometer (the wires look to be about a size 18 or 20).


I used my (LED test cable) to check and insure I have the right cable by first poking one of the sewing needles thru the insulation of one of the wires (using the wiring diagram as a guide).

Well for the most part everything went pretty well, although there are several similar colored wires in each wiring leads bundles.

Next issue is that some of the LED’s on the speedometer are reverse fed: where you’re not adding a positive signal to complete the circuit to light the LED, but, instead adding a negative signal to complete the circuit.


1. Anyway as I identified each wire I would strip the top of the insulation of the wire back about ¼”, then use a small screwdriver to reach in between the insulation and the wire and put a bend in it.
2. Next I would strip back ¼” on the end of the wire I am tagging in, next forming it into a J and slipping it under the opening in the other wires insulation.
3. Next I soldered them together, covered with liquid tape (a kind of rubber), finely when dry would wrap with electrical tape.

I mounted the LED’s in a piece of aluminum and pop riveted to my radios mount.

I was never able to get the temperature LED to work correctly, no matter if I put a positive or negative on the remote LED, the LED would light up (which really has me scratching my head) so I gave up on that one. :mad:


Below are photos of pretty much everything, I am happy the way it turned out, just wish it had been a bit easier.

David Hilton Ret. ETC/SS View attachment 195121 View attachment 195123 View attachment 195125 View attachment 195127 View attachment 195129 View attachment 195131 View attachment 195133 View attachment 195135
 

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Seems to me that the O.P. has not only provided extensive background/details on his "skills and training" but also these appear to be quite high. Kudos to you, Subdude, for excellent work and a good write-up to help others with this interesting mod. Thanks for sharing. Keep after the one reluctant LED and I am confident you will get it right.
 

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I would LOVE to move all my lights, and even the speedo up to my batwing, then have the tank smoothed out (so only a gas cap remains).

I do not have the pair of round bits to try this out, but have a ton of respect to the OP and this thread. Love it!
 

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PM member Fuman. He moved the speedometer on his 1300 up to his fairing. He might have some advice for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Heres a post from TrikeTalk.com on this thread.

vwbug72501

500+ Posts
NameTomUser ID18630Join DateApr 2015LocationBatesville, AR. 72501Posts523Post Thanks / Like


[h=2]
[/h]
Nice work David.

With regards to the temp sensor, you will probably have to attach the remote LED to the internal TEMP LED leads inside the instrument housing to get proper operation. This is because the TEMP indicator is probably driven by a comparative circuit. This means that the voltage signal supplied by the thermistor TEMP sensor is compared to a reference voltage inside the Control Circuit shown in the schematic. If the sensor voltage is below the reference voltage the TEMP LED stays off. If the sensor voltage is above the reference voltage the TEMP LED comes on. Here is a link to a typical circuit: http://www.learningaboutelectronics....r-circuits.php

Connecting an external LED across the TEMP sensor leads may affect the voltage level seen by the OEM comparative circuit and adversely affect the operation of the OEM TEMP indicator.

My suggestion would be to look at the possibility of mounting an additional OEM TEMP sensor by piggy backing or teeing off the original original sensor if possible (I'm not familiar with you motorcycle) and building a simple comparative circuit like the one shown to drive the external TEMP LED.

Another option would be to get something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-W12...h_Q77TZsOwhezg

With this module you could mount the sensor somewhere close to the OEM sensor, set the trip point temp, and use the relay output to drive the external TEMP LED. Put the module in a waterproof enclosure (you don't need the display except for setup) and tuck it up out of sight. Put the module in a clear waterproof box and mount it up top somewhere if you want a display. It only reads out in Celsius but once you know where normal temp is, who cares?

This module only goes to 110C / 230F. There are other modules like this out there with different temp ranges. Also, these cheap Chinese modules are cheaper than collecting the discrete components and building it yourself!

Who knew that you would become an engineer just by riding your motorcycle?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Here is my reply to the post on TrikeTalk.com.

SubDude

60+ Posts
NameDavidUser ID29240Join DateNov 2018LocationSan Angelo, TX, USAPosts66Post Thanks / Like


[h=2]
Comparative circuit maybe, diffrent gauge, piggy back LED. Hummmm[/h] Good ideas,


Comparative circuit is possibly inside the speedometer housing (no prints available to check), but, I'm not going to guess.

And the link to the remote temp gauge would work but it's a very big display.


As far as piggy backing on the speedometer mounted LED, this is not an easy fix ether as the whole unit is sealed.


I have been told that the Honda VTX's never overheat, so, I am going to just have the tank mounted light for that.

Thanks for the advise,

David Hilton Ret. USN ETC/SS
 
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