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Thanks, Vinish. I figure since the bike fires up just fine without choke, and I have been told already and read that the plunger is wonky and could shift while running, it would be best to ditch it. I searched and found this thread detailing the procedure you mention, but the images are gone. I just wanted to update the thread with my intentions of performing said procedure and taking pictures.

I thought about mounting a horn there too. Will see if I can find one that would work in that spot.
 

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Easy project. Done many years ago. Remove nut on carb end, pull the plunger thing up slightly so you can get the ball end of cable out of slot. Remove cable, slide spring off and go to store to match up similar with heavier wire. Reinstall the plastic carb nut over spring. Hole in plastic nut add a bit of silicone. You can get a rubber cap at hardware store to fit over that too and the silicone will help hold it on.
 

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Old post, but negative choke....fuel enricher valve, :patriot:
 

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Ok, but why remove the choke? Don’t you need that to start the bike until warm?
Obviously not I guess, but someone educate me please. Thanks.
 

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Ok, but why remove the choke? Don’t you need that to start the bike until warm?
Obviously not I guess, but someone educate me please. Thanks.

The bike comes from the factory set to run extremely lean. So lean as to be hard to start when cold, but with the correct size idle jet and maybe the scar mod done to the needle, most find the enricher to not be necessary any more.
 

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Ok, but why remove the choke? Don’t you need that to start the bike until warm?
Obviously not I guess, but someone educate me please. Thanks.
A carb that is properly tuned to allow optimal fuel delivery rates in both its low-speed and high-speed circuits relative to the air induction (intake) that it is given - over the widest possible ranges of throttle positions and forward speeds from stationary idle to top speed - will not require the 'choke' (enricher) to start and idle the bike, even in pretty darn cold weather (down to about 30-40°F). The low-speed circuit is governed primarily by the Pilot (slow) Jet size, the Pilot (air:fuel ratio) Screw position, and the 'openness' of the air filter media. I have never used my 'choke' (enricher) ever since I properly re-jetted my carb with the Factory Pro Stage 3 jet kit, even in very cold weather. In cold weather, I do increase my idle speed momentarily until the oil warms up a little by either manually feathering the throttle, or by adjusting the Throttle Stop Screw Knob until the bike warms up... but I never use, or need to use, the plug-fouling enricher.
 

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A carb that is properly tuned to allow optimal fuel delivery rates in both its low-speed and high-speed circuits relative to the air induction (intake) that it is given - over the widest possible ranges of throttle positions and forward speeds from stationary idle to top speed - will not require the 'choke' (enricher) to start and idle the bike, even in pretty darn cold weather (down to about 30-40°F). The low-speed circuit is governed primarily by the Pilot (slow) Jet size, the Pilot (air:fuel ratio) Screw position, and the 'openness' of the air filter media. I have never used my 'choke' (enricher) ever since I properly re-jetted my carb with the Factory Pro Stage 3 jet kit, even in very cold weather. In cold weather, I do increase my idle speed momentarily until the oil warms up a little by either manually feathering the throttle, or by adjusting the Throttle Stop Screw Knob until the bike warms up... but I never use, or need to use, the plug-fouling enricher.
But a space heater may be required at temps below 40* :stirpot:
 

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Just goofin' wit ya, Mark! :cheers:
 

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Just goofin' wit ya, Mark! :cheers:
I know, Mr. Matt, I know... a space heater on the block sure does help around a < 30-40°F cold soak, for an immediate (and low-stress) start-up... but you won't listen to me... so... :bleh:

:icon_chee
 

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I went ahead and removed the Choke Cable. It easily can be done without loosening or removing the carb.

Here is the view with the tank removed. The red arrow points to the base of the choke cable where it attaches to the carb:


Here is the choke cable removed from the bike. The red circle is the part that you will want to remove from the cable, to reuse. Keep the spring, as you will need it as well:


Here I am holding the removed cable over the hole. The plastic piece from the end of the cable have been removed to be used in the next step:


I then got a M7 x 1.0 x 10mm bolt, and screwed it into the top of the plastic piece (we will call this plastic piece as the spring holder). I then put the new spring in the hole over the plunger inside, then using the now sealed spring holder I put it up against the spring screwed it down into the carb. Done.

Here are the measurements of the spring I got at Ace Hardware ($0.79+tax) in mm and inches:

Length:



Width:



The spring has a much higher spring rate.

This is completely reversible.
 

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Took my bike out for the first spring ride and even after 1/2 hour, if I pushed the choke all the way in, she would stall when taking off in first.
So, is a “scar” mod something I should look into??(and what is it)
 

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Yeah , no. Too complicated for me. But Thanks
Where are you located. If you are near me (Long Island NY) you are welcome to stop by for a little wrenching (I have several #4 washers).

I'm tuning my Carb now, so it is fresh on my mind.
 

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Yeah , no. Too complicated for me. But Thanks
It’s really not that complicated. I can do it and I WAS NOT a carb expert at all. I was, in fact, scared to modify mine at first.
 

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It’s really not that complicated. I can do it and I WAS NOT a carb expert at all. I was, in fact, scared to modify mine at first.
x2... I can have my tank off and be in the carb bowl in about 10 minutes (and that includes getting out tools). The top part of the carb, where the needle is, is even easier as you dont have to loosen the carb, just get at it with the tank off.
 
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