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I have decided to share my ride in restoring my 2003 1300 back to road worthiness again. I bought the bike in 2013, rode a couple years and then put it away. It's now been stored for the last 7 year. I pulled the bike out and got ready to restore most of the necessary things. Tires, brakes, lights, cables, fluids, spark plugs... As we've all experienced, the tear down revealed many things. All good, albeit expensive, but good and normal wear. I will share the steps and what I found here. I've seen lot's of information here already and would like to contribute back to it.
Tire Land vehicle Wheel Fuel tank Vehicle

Wheel Tire Fuel tank Vehicle Automotive fuel system


Completely stock. Drove well the few miles I put on it.

Motorcycle Fuel tank Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive lighting


The fuel system looks like its been sitting for the better part of a decade. Will R&R the fuel system. I found out about the electric fuel pump on this particular model and have ordered a 2004 petcock for the fuel tank and will be converting this 20 year fuel pump to late model style.
Tire Wheel Fuel tank Automotive tire Automotive design


Now on with the tear down. The larger discoveries I have made including the rear drive flange bearings being shot. This is still a grey area on how to repair. It appears it is sold by Honda as difficult to service part. That being said, with 15 years dealing parts for Toyota, I'm inclined to replace it with a factory replacement flange. If you have experience replacing these bearings, feel free to share how the have lasted between tire changes.

Will add further pictures as I get more repaired. Front and rear wheel bearings are next up. Will advise with a follow up.
 

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2009 VTX 1300R, Long Island NY
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Now on with the tear down. The larger discoveries I have made including the rear drive flange bearings being shot. This is still a grey area on how to repair. It appears it is sold by Honda as difficult to service part. That being said, with 15 years dealing parts for Toyota, I'm inclined to replace it with a factory replacement flange. If you have experience replacing these bearings, feel free to share how the have lasted between tire changes.

Will add further pictures as I get more repaired. Front and rear wheel bearings are next up. Will advise with a follow up.
Contact Jon Losey, I will message you his phone number. He services flanges. You can send him yours as a core, he will send you back a serviced upgraded flange. He addresses the design flaw, I can't exactly tell you what the flaw is, but the flange he sends you is ready to go, and will outlast the bike. It is worth it, I did mine, and many other members here and on vtxoa have as well.
 
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Contact Jon Losey, I will message you his phone number. He services flanges. You can send him yours as a core, he will send you back a serviced upgraded flange. He addresses the design flaw, I can't exactly tell you what the flaw is, but the flange he sends you is ready to go, and will outlast the bike. It is worth it, I did mine, and many other members here and on vtxoa have as well.
I second the re-man flanges from Jon (JONS1800VTXC on the VTXOA). He will quote a flat price, and once you send him yours, he'll see if it is serviceable to re-man. If it is, he will rebate a portion of your $ back.
 

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First I am hearing of this service.
Can anyone explain what is entailed? What is the flaw in the flange etc?
I put new bearings in mine a couple weeks ago. Maybe I got lucky but it wasn't a terrible job on mine.
 

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First I am hearing of this service.
Can anyone explain what is entailed? What is the flaw in the flange etc?
I put new bearings in mine a couple weeks ago. Maybe I got lucky but it wasn't a terrible job on mine.
I believe it has something to do with the micro clearances in the bore. Jon could probably explain it. I have his street address, and phone #, but won't post it in an open forum. You can PM me if you want. At the time I replaced mine, maybe 5 years ago, he rebated me maybe 20 or 25% for a good core. I'm sure the cost of services has gone up. FJB
 
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I have his snail mail address, but NOT his ph. #. Sorry.
 

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Good heads up. Shortly after posting this, I found a OEM flange being offered for 200.00 so I went ahead and snagged it up. I am not opposed to spending a bit more than the bikes worth at this point to get it right, but I also enjoy the gratification of "doing it by the book". I will R&R the actual wheel bearings/tires in the meantime.
 

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Good heads up. Shortly after posting this, I found a OEM flange being offered for 200.00 so I went ahead and snagged it up. I am not opposed to spending a bit more than the bikes worth at this point to get it right, but I also enjoy the gratification of "doing it by the book". I will R&R the actual wheel bearings/tires in the meantime.
Inspect the final drive rubber wedges for odd wear, and if there is any metallic shavings in the paste that should be lubing the contact parts. It needs cleaned and re-lubed with something like Honda Moly 77 PASTE, not grease. Grease gets hot and spreads all over causing a mess and reduced lube capability. Paste stays put and does its job. Not very expensive for a small tube and a little goes a long way. BTW it cleans up easily with Simple Green.
 

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Also changed my rubber dampers (not sure the technical name for them), the rubber wedges that go inside the wheel. At the time they weren't too much money, and I figured a full refresh was a good idea.

The price has gone up significantly, and you only really need a small tube for the life of your bike, but this is the moly I got on amazon ($45 now, I paid $31 years ago):
Amazon.com: Loctite 234227 LOC51048 Moly Paste Anti-Seize Compound : Automotive

I also put some on my glove and rub it on the axle before I put it back. A little bit goes a long way...
 
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I've always called them the Cush Drive. That's what I see them listed as in exploded diagrams as well
There you go. Cush Drive...
 

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