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Discussion Starter #1
The bike has always had a rough idle and requires a long warm up with the choke on before it will take any throtle without dying.

I thought it was just because it was new and not broken in yet. Now at 1100 miles it still has the same problems. At the 600 mile service the dealer said all was good. But I feel that this is not the way it should be.

Yesterday I pulled the plugs and found that they were black and heavly carboned.

Any Suggestions???

:coffee:
 

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Yes, try not using the choke. Just give your throttle 2 or 3 twist and start. You will ned to feather the throttle for a short time to get her to idle and you are ready to go. These bikes hate the throttle. Your plugs were fouled due to the use of the choke. Clean the plugs and stay away from the choke.
 

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Goldsmith has it right. Try not using the choke at all. If you do use it then only use it for a few seconds and then take off the choke.
 

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I had the same problem you did. My bike was cold-blooded and for first 4000 miles, I had to choke the heck out of it - even if it was 90 degrees outside. I was always on the highway, to get anywhere, so I guess I was lucky enough to blow the cobs out and didn't end up with fowled plugs.

After getting hooked up with the VTXOA forums, I tried the 2 raps on the throttle and have never used the choke since...it really works just fine and gives me a minute of extra time just sitting on the bike and have the opportunity to notice any other issues that need to be addressed (that overlooked smudge that needs to be polished!).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Goldsmith has it right. Try not using the choke at all. If you do use it then only use it for a few seconds and then take off the choke.
Thanks for your help. I tried not using the choke at all. The bike will sit and idle with the idle set up higher, but when it goes into gear and the clutch is let out it just wants to die. If I try to nurse it a little it will finally catch and then it is ready to fly. To get it there it spits and sputters like it is not getting any ignition advance. Any other suggestions??
 

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Feather the throttle a little more after starting before trying to go anywhere. It is still cold ya know. Did you clean the plugs?
 

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The bike has always had a rough idle and requires a long warm up with the choke on before it will take any throtle without dying.

I thought it was just because it was new and not broken in yet. Now at 1100 miles it still has the same problems. At the 600 mile service the dealer said all was good. But I feel that this is not the way it should be.

Yesterday I pulled the plugs and found that they were black and heavly carboned.

Any Suggestions???

:coffee:
I used to have the same warm up problem. I added the K&N filter and the Dynojet Stage II kit and the problem was solved. I never use the choke, just press the starter button, give the throttle a few twists, and away I go.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Guys
For all of your advise, but I still think that this is not a normal situation.

should I consider a different heat range Plug???
 

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Pfffft! Just move to Texas!
 

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I have a finicky choke also.I use choke for only 30 seconds then off it goes and then I let bike idle.

if your bike shuts off after you push in the choke -- maybe your engine idle speed is set too low - you may have to increase it a bit.

You mc will probably need a good run to burn up any carbon
 

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Thanks for your help. I tried not using the choke at all. The bike will sit and idle with the idle set up higher, but when it goes into gear and the clutch is let out it just wants to die. If I try to nurse it a little it will finally catch and then it is ready to fly. To get it there it spits and sputters like it is not getting any ignition advance. Any other suggestions??

Nope, you aren't alone. If it is below 70 degrees I have to warm the bike up for at least 5 minutes with no choke before I leave or it acts exactly as you describe. It is just something I have accepted for now. It runs fine once it it warmed up and it never displays this problem on a warm day. I am about 99.999% certain it is a carb issue (just a hair too lean). I am waiting until Fall to fool with it and get it right cause its just fine right now :D
 

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.....

Here's a good way to let the bike warm up, I fugured out after reading this post and relating to the problems with using the choke on my bike. I have a Breakaway cruise control, with which you can lock the throttle in any position (and adjust it up or down while it's locked), I love the thing. So I give the throttle a few twists, start the bike up, twist the throttle so that my RPM's are a few hundred above idle speed, lock on the cruise control, and let er sit and warm up. Works like a charm, and never have to use the choke!And with the Breakaway, I never have sore wrists on long trips!
Boom
 

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Here's a good way to let the bike warm up, I fugured out after reading this post and relating to the problems with using the choke on my bike. I have a Breakaway cruise control, with which you can lock the throttle in any position (and adjust it up or down while it's locked), I love the thing. So I give the throttle a few twists, start the bike up, twist the throttle so that my RPM's are a few hundred above idle speed, lock on the cruise control, and let er sit and warm up. Works like a charm, and never have to use the choke!And with the Breakaway, I never have sore wrists on long trips!
Boom
I do the same thing, set the break away put on the gear and then just ride off.
 

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These bikes come with a fuel stabilizer from the factory, evenstill it sounds like something has gotten into your pilot jet and hasn't let loose. The bike shouldn't be that hard to get going!!
 

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Sounds to me like you're air fuel mixture is set too lean. You need to get a "D" shaped tool to adjust it. Turn the A/F screw all the way in gently seating it, then back it out 2 1/2 turns. That should get you close.:p
 

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Clean the plugs, try adjusting your idle speed up a little and use the choke sparingly to get it going. Sounds like you're using the choke a little too long to start it and get it warmed up which is a common thing to happen with some people. The factory settings on these bikes is on the lean side, so you may have to adjust the A/F some but I'd try these other things first before you get into that.
 

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You can do two things to rectify this problem without going hi-tech or listening to a Honda tech tell you there is no problem.

i lived through the fouled plug issue and was tempted to think it was a complicated problem that involved ignition or fuel system troubleshooting........But that would have been not very intelligent........doing the heavy stuff before I had tried simpler fixes. ......eh?

One.........Turn up your idle screw a turn or two. ....right from your saddle.

Two..........ride your bike at higher rpm's. These bikes will pull from idle to vibration that is so uncomfortable that you know you are outside the powerband.

If you keep your plugs cleaned off day to day.........faster warmups and cleaner idling will go hand in hand with it.

Kinda like the chicken and the egg riddle. Does a fouled plug cause rough idle and very slow warmup or does slow warmup and uneven burning of the fuel cause plug fouling?

YES.........either way you pluck that hen.......it still ends up naked and in the pot........omg.....lol.

Winter
 

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I've had the same problem last fall, I finally figured out it was the plugs but it was too late (snow) I've been waiting all winter to change to fesh plugs and get it back to normal operations. However, if it still continues, I'm thinking maybe my bikes too rich as well. Where is the A/F screw located? that way I can reset it to the 2 1/2 turns as everyone keeps suggesting. I just dont know where the heck it is! thanks
 

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I've had the same problem last fall, I finally figured out it was the plugs but it was too late (snow) I've been waiting all winter to change to fesh plugs and get it back to normal operations. However, if it still continues, I'm thinking maybe my bikes too rich as well. Where is the A/F screw located? that way I can reset it to the 2 1/2 turns as everyone keeps suggesting. I just dont know where the heck it is! thanks
very bottom of the carb behind the float bowl, it is in a recess and takes a D shap tool to adjust it.
 
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