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· Money Grower
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98 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got an 03' 1300S that I have put some V&H bigshots on and rejetted with a dynajet kit using the 195 jet and the replacement spring. It was running a little lean. It was popping and backfiring slightly when cold and seemed like it took too long to warm up. As per recommendations I turned the mixture screw out about an 1/8th. Seemed to help a little so I just left it til another day. Today I took off the PAIR valve, took the reed valves out and used the same reed plate with the rubber gasket, replaced the reed covers with some Baron's block off plates. I then richened up the mixture one more 1/8th. It seems like it is running leaner now than before. If I pull the choke out a little it defenitely runs better. I stuck a screw in the vac hose. Checked all of my other hoses and don't think I have any vacuum lines off. I'm perplexed! Any suggestions?
T.
 

· Just Bring It!
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2,053 Posts
+1 Scar; BigT, you're DJ 195 is slinging less fuel than your stock Keihin 195 main. Put that back in there and try shimming the stock needle, with the stock Keihin Main Jet by the link Scar provided (and authored).
 

· Money Grower
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98 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok. I will try that. Tell me why does Dynajet say to put the 195 in there? Unfortunately I didn't know of this website when I rejetted. When I aked the guy at the stealer his answer was "I don't know ask the guy that is installing it". Thanks once again. T.
 

· Just Bring It!
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2,053 Posts
Why they tell you that....who knows. The Stage 1 kits for our bike all have a smaller main jet than what comes in it stock (the DJ jets and Keihin Jets are measured differently--if you take a Keihin 195 main, which is stock, and calc. it out to a DJ, it comes out to be a DJ 208), and that doesn't make any sense to me if you're letting more air in and/or out.
 

· Money Grower
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98 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Stock airbox. Next week I will put on a Baron's BAK and do your carb mod. Any suggestions other than what you have written? T.
 

· Desert Recluse
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1,517 Posts
BigT said:
Stock airbox. Next week I will put on a Baron's BAK and do your carb mod. Any suggestions other than what you have written? T.
Yep, that's why I asked :)

Put the stock mainjet back in and the stock needle... you should leave the DJ spring in there unless you are going to return the jet kit and in that case you can cut down the stock spring as mentioned in the article.

A/F should probably be set to around 2 1/2 turns or so... fine tune the A/F for now so everything is "fine"... after the BAK gets installed you can start shimming the needle UP or getting ahold of some larger jets... like a Factory Pro 200 and 205 series 393... they are measured in cc/minute flow like Keihin and Mikuni and should be big enough to do the trick.. for now tho with the stock airbox you aren't going to need much and that stage 1 kit is useless.
 

· Money Grower
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98 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
As a matter of time savings, once I put on the new airbox should I just put in a bigger jet or start by shimming? T.

After reading another post about intakes I see that the Baron's BAK comes with a stage 3 kit. Will this have big enough jets in it? T.
 

· Just Bring It!
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2,053 Posts
Yes, the stage III kit will have a 210 DJ main, which is what you'll need. But, I run a BAK and didn't like the DJ kit in there---leaves something to be desired as far as I'm concerned and runs good on bottom end, didn't like the top end "feel." I've actually got a Keihin 198 and 200 MJ on the way, I'm putting those in unshimmed to start (I'll actually use the 200 to start, only getting the 198 as a safety measure in case it acts too rich) with and moving up to a 58 pilot to start as well.

If you decide to put the BAK on with your stock parts, 3 shims on the needle, stock main and stock pilot (keihin 55). It will get you running and you'll notice a difference. I'm lean with my BAK and this method (don't get me wrong, bike runs good but I think it can take more fuel and run even better).

I'll be happy to post back with my final jetting once I get it all done.
 

· Desert Recluse
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1,517 Posts
Retro Rich said:
Yes, the stage III kit will have a 210 DJ main, which is what you'll need. But, I run a BAK and didn't like the DJ kit in there---leaves something to be desired as far as I'm concerned and runs good on bottom end, didn't like the top end "feel." I've actually got a Keihin 198 and 200 MJ on the way, I'm putting those in unshimmed to start (I'll actually use the 200 to start, only getting the 198 as a safety measure in case it acts too rich) with and moving up to a 58 pilot to start as well.

If you decide to put the BAK on with your stock parts, 3 shims on the needle, stock main and stock pilot (keihin 55). It will get you running and you'll notice a difference. I'm lean with my BAK and this method (don't get me wrong, bike runs good but I think it can take more fuel and run even better).

I'll be happy to post back with my final jetting once I get it all done.
:cheers:
 

· Money Grower
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98 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I decided to put the stock jet back in, leave the DJ spring, put the stock needle back in and shim with 3 shims. I don't remember what groove the clip was in on the stock needle. Do the shims go all the way to the bottom of the clip on the needle? T.
 

· Just Bring It!
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2,053 Posts
The stock Keihin needle doesn't have a clip settting/grooves in it. It is smooth. If you're shimming a needle "up", then you put them between the top of the needle and where it sits in the hole in the slider tube.
 

· Money Grower
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98 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Sorry Rich, I should have looked at the old needle before I asked that question. Thanks again. T.

Put the stock jet and needle back in and used 2 shims with the stock airbox. I can't believe the difference in the seat dyno. I wonder if when I put the BAK on if I will need too add another shim or just turn the needle valve out?. I am near sea level. T.
 
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