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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so i didnt listen & bought a damn dyno junk jet kit. what a mistake that was; after all week of trying to tune the damn thing i gave up. so today after reading alot of threads & posts by other people, i did the Scar Mod. now the bike runs like a champ. i installed my Arlen Ness Big Sucker kit & the bike performs well. pulls great throughout the entire range. now i'm waiting to see if i can get some of my money back for the junk kit from either cruiser customizing or dyno junk themselves.
 

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You will end up keeping the kit so just take it in stride and move on.

I have modded several jets out of my DJ and Cobra kits I bought, I think Wayne is running one set I tuned in with one of the DJ needles and it did well on his old engine but needs a little more fiddling for the new one he put in.

Go for a ride and enjoy the warm sun on your back and the breeze between the knees.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yea i'll be riding to work tomorrow.
 

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I did the scar mod, pair valve mod, Glens A/F mix permanent mod, glens clutch relief, and put new handle bars on today. :) I am wondering how I can know for sure that I have my needle seated at the best height for my bike? I put two of the proper shims (washers) on the needle. Also when I started the bike it didn't want to run without the choke on. I turned the air fuel mix screw and it seeme to fix the problem. I have the factory air intake and Vance and Hines pipes. Any thoughts or suggestions?
 

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I did the scar mod, pair valve mod, Glens A/F mix permanent mod, glens clutch relief, and put new handle bars on today. :) I am wondering how I can know for sure that I have my needle seated at the best height for my bike? I put two of the proper shims (washers) on the needle. Also when I started the bike it didn't want to run without the choke on. I turned the air fuel mix screw and it seeme to fix the problem. I have the factory air intake and Vance and Hines pipes. Any thoughts or suggestions?
If you roll on the throttle at 55 and it doesn't hesitate you should be good.
turning in the A/F all the way the bike should die if it doesn't the needle is to high.
 

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The guitar, not the fish!
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Two shims with a stock airbox is major overkill (rich)...I ran for about 2 years with two shims and a decap'd airbox/waterjet cut front cover which allows alot more air in than the stock airbox did...Bike ran great and plugs looked perfect...New pipes don't pull any more air through the factory airbox....
 

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The guitar, not the fish!
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Stock airbox??...Maybe (and this is a big maybe) 1 shim, but most of the time no shims are needed with a stock airbox...The '08/'09 bikes come with a smaller main jet and 1 shim is the norm, but your ride left the factory with the 195 main, which is plenty big for a stock airbox...Adding more fuel to the mix without also increasing airflow will just make you run rich, and foul the plugs...
 

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I was going to decap the air box, but then I just saw the spyder air cover mod. Should I decap the air box and do the spyder air cover mod of just the spyder air cover mod?
 

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Semper Fi
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I emailed Spyker some questions myself about shims/pipes/etc. I hae done the Spyker mod. I run two shims with the a/f 2 &1/4 out and it runs great. He said that he had V&H bigshots and ran 3 shims and 2 & 1/2 out until he did his own decap at which time he changed the jet. He said the only reason he did the decap was so that he could take the air box off without pulling the tank. If you ever plan to get a HID headlight the top of the airbox is a great location to put the small ballast. With the decap that wouldn't work.
 

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Equito Passim
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Ive done plenty of 1 shim scar mods, and A/F set at just shy of 2 1/2 turns out on bikes with stock air intakes. Works great.

2 Shims would be good for Decap and an Open Spyker Mod.

Keep in mind, the best thing to do is go ahead and drop the $65 on a Factory Pro Stage 3 Jet Kit and $40 on a Glen's Permanent Air Fuel Tool.... even if you're running a stock air box.

The reason behind this recommendation is for people who want to get the bike running right Now, and want the option later on down the road to go ahead and get any intake they want.. They will have the Jets and the ability to adjust the carb for any intake out there.

-Gonz
 

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That Just Happened!
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Ive done plenty of 1 shim scar mods, and A/F set at just shy of 2 1/2 turns out on bikes with stock air intakes. Works great.

2 Shims would be good for Decap and an Open Spyker Mod.

Keep in mind, the best thing to do is go ahead and drop the $65 on a Factory Pro Stage 3 Jet Kit and $40 on a Glen's Permanent Air Fuel Tool.... even if you're running a stock air box.

The reason behind this recommendation is for people who want to get the bike running right Now, and want the option later on down the road to go ahead and get any intake they want.. They will have the Jets and the ability to adjust the carb for any intake out there.

-Gonz
+1. Did all that work then decided to just drop money for JP3!
 

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I've noticed some hesitation at sustained speeds usually anywhere from 55-70 mph. The bike seems to jerk slightly, like it's not getting enough fuel. Should I change a jet? I've got a 2006 1300R, Doug's BAK, Glen's AF tool, scar mod, FP Stage 3 jet kit, 4th clip 220 jet.

I've adjusted that AF screw so many times, I'm considering going back to stock. But you know what they say, "Once you go BAK, you never go back." :)
 

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I've noticed some hesitation at sustained speeds usually anywhere from 55-70 mph. The bike seems to jerk slightly, like it's not getting enough fuel. Should I change a jet? I've got a 2006 1300R, Doug's BAK, Glen's AF tool, scar mod, FP Stage 3 jet kit, 4th clip 220 jet.

I've adjusted that AF screw so many times, I'm considering going back to stock. But you know what they say, "Once you go BAK, you never go back." :)
add 1 shim and see if it helps
 
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