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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there...

A couple of weeks ago I made my own Driver Backrest, cause the ones I found online were expensive or /and impractical.



But because of the Driver Backrest, the passenger has a little less space behind me..
I had some metal left over from my Driver Backrest, so I made some extensionbrackets for the Sissybar.
It gives about 3-4 inches extra room... and because we will be driving down to Holland this summer with a big SissybarBag, there is now ample room for a large fluffy pillow between the backrest and the passenger to ensure a comfortable journey....

I took some pictures for those who are intrested.



I started out with 2 bits and drew the holes onto them.
I drilled them a little too large on purpose so that i would be able to adjust the angel of the sissybar and loadingplatform a little if necesary.


I initially mounted the brackets on the outside of the existing brackets, but decided later on to put hem on the inside...
Because my sissybar and platform aren't a perfect fit i didn't bother about cutting and welding the brackets together again to adjust for the difference in width...


When i found the perfect position for the brackets i traced the outline of the adjoining sissy and original mountingbracket and cut, grinded, filed and sandpappered the edges off as smooth as i could get them before sending them away to be chromed.



2 weeks later i got them back and was happy with the work they did.
Now the fun part could begin....


This is the original setup...



Approx 27 cm of space between the sissybar and my own Driver Backrest...



Time to take it apart..
(tip: Put a blanket on to the back of the rearfender when dissembling the sissybar, cause it will drop back when you are busy with the screws and could damage the rearlight or paintjob)



Putting the new bracket in place... i bought stainless steel bolts, washers and nylock nuts, and cut them to the needed size.



Not tight yet... but tight enough to not fall out....


Got some help of my son to Hold the sissy and loadingplatform while i fiddled with the screws...
Sometimes you really wish you hade a couple of extra arms and hands...



Bad pic, but approx 35-36cm inbetween now.



Found the right angle for the sissybar and loadingplatform (what is the proper name for the "what-ya-ma-call-it"?)



Other side... feels sturdy as h*ck!!!

One step closer to my dreambike....
I kinda like these low budget alterations...
Next project will be to move my footcontrolls 10 cm forward...
I think i can do a nice job for under $15-$20...

Thanks for reading and drive safe!!!!

GreetZ from Sweden!
 

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Are you sure that your passenger's butt cheeks won't hit the top "points" of the old side rails?

G'day,

Vinish
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good point, Vinish...
My son (13 years old and 45 kg) and my wife (older than that, but approx the same weight) are the only ones that sit behind me, and their butts aren't that big :D
But i see you point..
I myself test sat there (over 100 kg and the proud owner of a large butt) but i didn't feel anything.. but that waqs just standing still inside my garage....
 

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One step closer to my dreambike....
I kinda like these low budget alterations...
Next project will be to move my foot controlls 10 cm forward...
I think i can do a nice job for under $15-$20...
I did my forward controls for around $25.00. Moved it 2.5" then moved it 3", but went back to 2.5". The minimum extension would be 2.5" as the original bolts would interfere with the relocation. Moving it 10 cm (4") forward will cause problems with the brake side and the gear shifter rod.

As for the brake side, the brake pedals do not move forward and have to be bent straight. To move 10 cm forward, you may want to consider moving the entire brake reservoir as this would move everything forward. Others have done this mod and others have also welded a brake lever. As for me, I am thinking of cutting off the brake toe peg and replacing it.

As for the gear shifter rod, the longer the rod length will cause binding below the clutch cover. You may have to bend (offset) the gear rod to increase the clearance between the rod and the clutch cover/housing.

See http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php/60141-Making-Forward-Control-Extensions/page24 post 231

Also, http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php/139113-One-DIY-Mod-after-Another post 20


CHEERS ....
 

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I made some extensionbrackets for the Sissybar.
It gives about 3-4 inches extra room..

we will be driving down to Holland this summer

When i found the perfect position for the brackets
before sending them away to be chromed.




stainless steel bolts, washers and nylock nuts, and cut them to the needed size.




Found the right angle for the sissybar and loadingplatform
(what is the proper name for the "what-ya-ma-call-it"?) - 'Luggage Rack'
Yes - that angle is usually not all that great as designed - when it should be as supportive as driver seat.


GreetZ from Sweden!
Nice Job - A custom Memory foam cushion might be nice addition to back rest / sissybar.

I traveled between Göteborg & Schiphol many times - that will be quite a road tour & ferry - through Denmark & Germany.
Probably rare - I was caught in big snow storm in Denmark - NewYears party.
Darn lucky - Göteborg law requires studded tires on all 4 that I drove there.

What's the fuel per liter in Göteborg now?
It was roughly $7 a gallon when there a while back.
 

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Nice job on the relocation brackets. Looks very professional and very sturdy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nice DIY project.

What was the cost to chrome those brackets?
Thanks..... :D

It cost me nothing....
I still had some metallbits left over from my Driver Backrest Project and my friendly neighbour took care of the cromning in Hungary when he visited a factory there to chrome some of his own art.. :D Thanks Neighbour!
But my guess is that it would cost me approx $50 if I cromed it here in Gothenburg, Sweden.

I cromed my old bike a couple of years ago and that cost me approx $1500...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did my forward controls for around $25.00. Moved it 2.5" then moved it 3", but went back to 2.5". The minimum extension would be 2.5" as the original bolts would interfere with the relocation. Moving it 10 cm (4") forward will cause problems with the brake side and the gear shifter rod.

As for the brake side, the brake pedals do not move forward and have to be bent straight. To move 10 cm forward, you may want to consider moving the entire brake reservoir as this would move everything forward. Others have done this mod and others have also welded a brake lever. As for me, I am thinking of cutting off the brake toe peg and replacing it.

As for the gear shifter rod, the longer the rod length will cause binding below the clutch cover. You may have to bend (offset) the gear rod to increase the clearance between the rod and the clutch cover/housing.

See http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php/60141-Making-Forward-Control-Extensions/page24 post 231

Also, http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php/139113-One-DIY-Mod-after-Another post 20


CHEERS ....
Thanks :D Seen your pages.. :D Impressed! RESPECT!

I have the 1800C, and the brake is different then the 1300...
I will have to get (make my own) brakehose from the footcontroll to the container... (hard to explain, but as always i will document it as good as possible)
And extend a couple of electrical wires on the brake side...
On the gear side it is easier.... There i just have to cut the gearlever and weld it to the appropriet size...
I have the 2inch forward kit on it now... so my 6inch kit will be simulair... but longer :D
As long as i can turn my frontwheel to the max on both sides i might just be able to stretch my legs while driving.
All i have to do now is get ahold of som thick metall parts... 10mm by 80mm by 200mm.
Anyone in Gothenburg, Sweden that knows where to get some? :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks :D

Yeah, I am realy looking forward to the trip.. Only 96 more days and we'll be off.
My son is not an experienced passenger so we will make the trip in 2 days...
We'll take the ferry to Fredrikshamn and then cruise through Denmark into Germany.. After Hamburg we will check in to a little Hotell somewhere and go out and get us some proper WienerSchnitzels!!!
Then the day after is is a 500 km ride to the part in Holland where i come from.
I got my Quiet Baffles for the German Autobahn... Damn, those coppers do not enjoy a good loud Exhaust..
You are right.... All vehicles with 4 wheels or more need special wintertyres... Spikes are very common higher up in Sweden, but i use Spikeless Wintertyres...
But Motorbikes are excluded from that law... My last drive last year was on the 31st o December... and on January the 18th we rolled out again :D
Thou i must say it was cold!!!! ;)
A gallon of petrol? :/ A liter wil cost you approx 14:30SEK which is approx $2.19 so a US Gallon would cost you $8.30...
And in Holland it would cost you approx $8.70

Please do NOT tell us what you pay in the states!!! ;)
Holland is one of the most expensiv Country's in the world concerning petrol... :(
 

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Holland is one of the most expensiv Country's in the world concerning petrol... :(
I know - I pulled in with my girlfriends medium size Mercedes -
Click stopped at 150 Euro's - Drained my wallet right there -
And as you know - you never show up w/o flowers.

Every gas Station has bushels of flowers on display there -
where here - we have firewood, and windshield washer.

Cheers
 
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