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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone

Hope you all are enjoying this riding season as much as i was...or am...if i can get this bug fixed.

Heres the situation with B2

hard chrome pipes and factory jet 215/58 with a stock air box

B2 has decided to be sluggish when accelerating. I mean no gumph at all. I was wizzing through traffic and getting out of the way. But now, she is taking her time in first and second gears. Very slow acceleration. I could not out run a 250. It is frightening...

What i have done.

I double checked the a/f today and she is at 2 1/2 turns. Pulled 2 plugs NOT fouled..test rode. Problem is still there. No get up at all. Lots of growling when you roll the throttle but no get up.

Help. Help. Help
 

· Reeling Jackwagon
2003 1300S
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Could be starved for air if you are running a stock air box. Have you decapped your air box or maybe your K&N needs cleaned. I'm decapped with a 210/58 and 1 3/4 turns so you may be running rich.

Was it running good before and suddenly got worse or gradually got worse? Check vacuum lines for leaks, check ECM wires. Could be some bad gas? Lots of variables!!!
 

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If it was running ok before, did it just happen. did you just fill up. Bad gas, or possible got diesel by accident.
if not backfiring then probably not the ECM.
Jets might be getting plugged.
 

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"Lots of growling when you roll the throttle"
Does this mean the rpms are rising but your spped is not?
Possible clutch adjustment issue?

From what you have said I can only think Carb or Clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sooo i changed the plugs

they went for a ride. I think it is the clutch. I let off completely with the bike running in first and it did not jerk or shut off.

That says Clutch!
 

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Ok, how much play do you have at the clutch lever at the end of the lever (ball end) it should be 3/8 to 3/4" and no more. I have Glens clutch relief on mine and I set mine closer to the 3/8".
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I ordered the clutch relief today so thats done. I test road it today with the adjustment to the bottom of clutch cable and she rode as normal...except the screws are all the way to the end...no more room to tighten...


The top is about 3/8ths out from the quarter nut screw. The speed is all the way back....

The clutch is loose, not tough to pull in at all...very loose...and it does not close all the way to the lever...a gap is there.

I do not think this is good.
 

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With the top, fine adjustment, adjusted with hardly any adjustment there still should be plenty adjustment on the bottom.
you should back off the top adjustment all the way and take up the slack at the botton.
So just wondering here, but you may have a cable stretching or breaking.
Is the cable coming out if the cable guide at the bottom straight and not on an angle. if it is on an angle then you may need to carefully bend the bracket so the cable comes out straight tward the clutch pivoit backet.

I have carried a spare cable coiled up undre my seat since 2004, and I still am on the original cable.
 

· Fastest Red Club Member
2007 VTX 1300R, Indianapolis
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Reset your adjustment at the lever and use the nuts down by the engine to adjust large slack in cable.
If you mean the cable is loose.
Actually you say you can't pull the lever back all the way?
In that case cable is too tight and your dragging clutch but again use nuts down by engine to adjust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Meaning it is very easy to dissengage the clutch. Not stiff like my other vtx.

The bottom is nut is tight to the cable top is 3\8..
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well she is riding good but i am going to change the springs as suggested. I happen to have the another clutch from the engine I swaped out. I have an abundance of spare parts. It does not look like more than a weekend job so i may do it this next saturday.

Or i priced some springs at 3.18 a piece...total of 19.18 and i have to get another clutch cable for under the seat(LOL)....so i have not decided yet....

Couple of quick questions.

Gasket sealer is necessary around the box when i put it back on...right...?

and do i need to label the screws or is that going to be easy to remember?

Where can i find the thicker ones you suggested Charlie? are you talking about the Barnetts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
One last question...

I do not need to do anything else but change the springs.

Just make sure i cross pull and cross torque them in...nothing else...

i am just checking because i just read pmans tread on drilling the clutch basket and i am curious why you would drill the basket...

Thanks Charlie!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok I am doing the drilling. I have done every other mod on this bike and i cannot stop now!

Which leads me to a couple more question.

This will give me more power from my clutch and bike altogether...right?

And where do i find the tougher bolts for the tougher barnett springs? Help!!

Oh and it is 6 holes right...just read your tread (Charlie) but just a little confused...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Preston=pman71?
 
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