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Ok mine just came in the mail today. I am new to working on a bike so many thing above are Greek to me. I am concerned about cutting into anything and messing something up. Can this be dumbed down for me?
Just install it 8” away from your left hand position. And then just follow the instructions.
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This is additional, don’t pay attention to it If you get confused. For some one who wants a cleaner install. It sucks that you have to cut the loom but perhaps you can try making a 2” slit and route wires up to the slit. You may get some slack from the switch by removing the switch from its position and then soldering everything in. A bit more technical but cleaner install. I hate having to wrap loop with electrical tape.
 

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2006 VTX 1800 S2
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I was thinking about a larger diameter heat shrink to cover the unit after I splice in. Does this sound like it could work? Just slide it on before making joints then cover and heat.
 

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2006 VTX 1800 S2
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So I am looking at the wiring diagram for the left handlebar. It looks like left is orange/black; right is light blue/white; neutral is light green/red. Not totally sure which are the 12v and ground though. Does this sound correct
 

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So I am looking at the wiring diagram for the left handlebar. It looks like left is orange/black; right is light blue/white; neutral is light green/red. Not totally sure which are the 12v and ground though. Does this sound correct
I am at the same point. Let me know if you get an answer.
 

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So I am looking at the wiring diagram for the left handlebar. It looks like left is orange/black; right is light blue/white; neutral is light green/red. Not totally sure which are the 12v and ground though. Does this sound correct
I believe I used the white/green wire. This is the power supply to the horn. I hope this works for y’all. I Apologize for the late reply, I had not checked my email.
 

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I am at the same point. Let me know if you get an answer.
I believe I used the white/green wire. This is the power supply to the horn. I hope this works for y’all. I Apologize for the late reply, I had not checked my email.
 

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2006 VTX 1800 S2
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Thank you. I zoomed on your earlier picture and thought that was what I saw. I will let you know how it goes
 

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Hi guys, after two months of waiting. I received my STS this week, and installed today.
After reading as much as I could and your thread being the best... I have a vtx1300c.
With a fairing. I look at the service manual, STS direction's, and the light bucket for a few hours.. Lol. I installed the STS box on top of the light bucket with gorilla double-sided tape. Since I have a fairing it's hidden. I tap into the rear one turns from the blue connector. The black connector, with the gray wire is the flasher. Tap power from the spare connector in the bucket, green ground, black was hot. My front turns or LED's that or built-in to my rear view mirrors. I moved the hot wires of the mirrors to the rear turn bulbs. Fixing my rear only issue. My issue now that the left works, right side don't work all the time. I'm thinking I need to go back into the switch and clean, and fresh dielectric grease. Also used the thick spacers, going to try the small ones. So I'll see how this works, spring / summer I might redo, I used the crimp connectors in the kit. I prefer solder. Don't have a lot of room to work in the light bucket. I don't ride much in the winter. So I'll see how the connecters and the gorilla tape holds up.
 

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if you install a signal minder by Kissan you can set them to time out after a period of time. you also get a 4 way flashers by pressing the signal switch in a certain pattern
 

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I installed the Smart Turn System today on the bike. Pretty straight forward. For those that will attempt this please note that the VTX will give you an error due to the daytime running lights in the front. I was getting the back light coming on only and flashing like I had hazards on.
Instead of adding the system in the headlight bucket I had to cut the wires in the bucket and run wires back to the seat. I did not solder the wires as I want to test for a month and due to the cold here in N.E. Ohio the iron wouldn't get hot enough. I pulled power from my fuse block I had installed last year. I installed the smaller foam parts in the switch and it was easy. I installed the unit under my seat with double sided tape and went for a quick cold ride. It worked as advertised.










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I installed mine last week using the standard whip as supplied by STS only. I mounted the control unit to the frame under the black plastic cover between the tank and the steering head and spliced all wires in head light can. The flashing light issue comes in when you cut the orange and light blue to the STS (gray & purple) - If you cut them between the splice and the blue and white 6 pin connector the front signal elements are wired to the purple and gray inputs to the STS. This will not work. It's a really nice place to cut and it will work, but only if you buy 2 additional red bullet connectors. You need to disconnect existing honda bullet connectors, orange and light blue and refeed them from the green and orange STS output along the orange and light blue to the rear signal lights.
Additionally why not pick up 12v switched power in the head light can. The 10 amp fuse will handle all power and more. I cut in a dual handlebar usb charger at the same time. I'll try and post my wiring diagram later. I'm new to this site.
 

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I installed mine last week using the standard whip as supplied by STS only. I mounted the control unit to the frame under the black plastic cover between the tank and the steering head and spliced all wires in head light can. The flashing light issue comes in when you cut the orange and light blue to the STS (gray & purple) - If you cut them between the splice and the blue and white 6 pin connector the front signal elements are wired to the purple and gray inputs to the STS. This will not work. It's a really nice place to cut and it will work, but only if you buy 2 additional red bullet connectors. You need to disconnect existing honda bullet connectors, orange and light blue and refeed them from the green and orange STS output along the orange and light blue to the rear signal lights.
Additionally why not pick up 12v switched power in the head light can. The 10 amp fuse will handle all power and more. I cut in a dual handlebar usb charger at the same time. I'll try and post my wiring diagram later. I'm new to this site.
The pencil markings on the attached diagrams are my personal notes for what I did. The key is you need to either cut orange and light blue where they enter the light can before the splices or you will need to disconnect the orange and light blue honda bullet connectors and refeed the associated front signal lights. Both the front and rear signal lights must be fed from the output of the STS. The STS upgrade changes the turn switch from a manual hold switch to a momentary signal switch. The momentary signal switch orange and blue must be solely dedicate to STS actuation or the system will not work.
Hope this helps
 

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