Some advice please.
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Ohm-meter connections
I have a 2002 1800c and everything on it is original. Though I only have nearing 17000 miles, all electrical stuff is considerably old. I also have a Suzuki C90 and those things are apparently having a lot of problems with the Regulator/Rectifier and the stator. I want to measure the amount of voltage coursing through my system when under a load in an effort to make a guess as to the current reliability of electrical components. So, should I make some preventive maintenance corrections before I wind up with a "quit" engine or battery while tooling through the toolies. While I am ta it, is there a special type ohm-meter for testing these systems or will any work as long as it measures DC current?
I have a 2002 1800c and everything on it is original. Though I only have nearing 17000 miles, all electrical stuff is considerably old. I also have a Suzuki C90 and those things are apparently having a lot of problems with the Regulator/Rectifier and the stator. I want to measure the amount of voltage coursing through my system when under a load in an effort to make a guess as to the current reliability of electrical components. So, should I make some preventive maintenance corrections before I wind up with a "quit" engine or battery while tooling through the toolies. While I am ta it, is there a special type ohm-meter for testing these systems or will any work as long as it measures DC current?
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18,990 Posts
All you need to do is put on dc volts
Go from positive to negative with the bike off and that will give you battery volts.
Start the engine and do it again and that will give charging volts at idle.
A couple of times a year you should also check tightness of the battery cables too.
Although the VTX has a rather small amp charging system as long as to many currant drawing devices aren't wired in they seem to hold up well.
If you run driving lights they really need to be on a relay so they shut off when you start the engine , there are many write ups on doing that on the forum.
Go from positive to negative with the bike off and that will give you battery volts.
Start the engine and do it again and that will give charging volts at idle.
A couple of times a year you should also check tightness of the battery cables too.
Although the VTX has a rather small amp charging system as long as to many currant drawing devices aren't wired in they seem to hold up well.
If you run driving lights they really need to be on a relay so they shut off when you start the engine , there are many write ups on doing that on the forum.
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27,731 Posts
Not may problems with the charging system on the X. The 02 did have a grounding issue so you might want to do a search for it and make sure the fix has been done.
Thanks. I have the cite for the ground fix but have just kept putting it off while it is so hot here in Texas. My "make believe" bike shop is in my barn with no air conditioning. I don't feel like I am having an immediate problem but I know I have to do the ground fix. Thanks for all the advice. Now if I can just do everything I want done between 7AM and 12Noon, I will be OK. Thanks again.
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3 Posts
I installed LED turn signals on the front only and having trouble with the flashing of the back two lights, both flash at the same time and also the indicators on the tank both stay on when not using the turn signal but both fash when one side or the other is turned on. Was told I don't need any diodes since I have dual turn signal indicators. What can I do ?
Do you happen to have the wrong model bulb in the front indicators? My bike did this when I had it because the previous owner installed 1157 or 1156 (I dont know which it should be) instead of the other. This was front bulb was backfeeding the circuit leaving the cluster bulbs on when not flashing and the tail lights on as well (the front running lights were back feeding the circuit).
Note, I have a 1300, so I do not know if this issue applies to the 1800, or if your LED issue relates.
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3 Posts
I have a 2002 VTX 1800 that the previous owner installed a rear brake light flasher also, the turn signals that I put on are aftermarket and are LED. I don't know if I need t change the flash unit or just get different turn signals.
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329 Posts
Did the turn signals you replaced work correctly? Do you have a picture of the wiring diagram for the new LED signals? There are a lot of smart people on here. The more specific information you can provide, the more likely you will get a relevant answer.
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The front signal bulbs should be dual element as they are also running lights, so if the LED bulbs that you used don't have 2 pins on the bottom of them, the single pin will basically connect the two pins in the socket and you will get the feedback mentioned above. The rear bulbs are single element and single pin at the bottom as they are only on when they are flashing. As for the flasher, once the proper bulbs are in the proper places, if you experience fast flashing, then you will either need diodes for resistance, or an LED flasher unit.
There are a lot of threads on here that address this, and a lot of better qualified folks that hopefully will chime in.
Best of luck!
There are a lot of threads on here that address this, and a lot of better qualified folks that hopefully will chime in.
Best of luck!
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