[grndune]

Y'all have always been able to help me in the past, and today I have a new problem for y'all to tackle.

My starter switch has bit the dirt and I need a new one. I was able to hot wire the bike and get it home (no headlight) and remove the starter switch assembly just to find that it had melted and was beyond repair. Now I am asking if any of you have a source for part numbers, discounts, ideas, etc...

2007 VTX 1300 with 15,000mi.

 

[Donut]

Why did it burn. We need to get that fixed or you will be replacing it again. Do you have any auxiliary lights on the bike. if so are the run threw a relay and not using the existing bike wiring for the power to the lights.
Wring light wiring will burn the switch up and also a poor contacts can get hot and also burn it up.
have you got the old one actually removed completely.

You could cut the old one out and solder and heat shrink the new one in.
Someone did that last month. Before you install the new one you should do the (rattlebars) Below.
I would do this to the new switch.
You may have to clean the starter switch. It is easy to do, just be careful because there are small parts that can get lost.

Caution when cleaning the switch, there are small parts IE; spring and contact points and a ball bearing on the bottom side.

Park the bike over a large tarp in case you drop something so you can find it.
Don't forget to stretch the little spring a little (not the big one) Just a little. (it's under the little contact). This will help it from burning up again.

You can use Vaseline for a lubricant (coat everything inside) for the switch to prevent corrosion and oxidation.
Use WD 40 to clean it then lube it with Vaseline.

Click on the five pictures at the top for a good view of the switch and housing. then do the instructions below.

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html

Someone will post where you can get a new switch.

 

[grndune]

It is removed completely, I don't have any extra lights running. It just looked like the plastic melted a little and got between the connections. I could not free up the spring around the "ears" enough for it to move freely and make a good connection to the other contacts. I think it just got hot and dirty or corroded and had a melt down. Welcome to Texas.

 

[Gonzo1970]

By your avatar, Ill guess a 1300R, and I have no idea why the Start/Stop Switches are listed with different part numbers for R/S/T and C Models..

Anywho...

Ron Ayers SKU: 501492

OEM Part Number: 35013-MEA-671


http://www.ronayers.com/ProductDetails/N/687/SKU/501492

$58

-Gonz

 

[Donut]

It melted because it had a week contact because the spring wasn't pushing the ears up enough - I have seen one that the bottom part of the ears were catching on the sides going down and would not let it move freely. I had to stretch the spring and carefully bend the ears so they would move freely.
Then i cleaned everything with WD40 and used Vaseline for a lubricant.
I have done three this way with no problems since.

 

[grndune]

Thanks guys!

I appreciate the feedback y'all. I am going to try and fix it on my own, but think the plastic might be to warped. If so, thanks for the link to buy one. :mosh:

 

[Donut]

Just fix it - it's nor warped - if you replace it $$ you are still in the same boat. Many have cleaned and stretched the little spring (not the big one) and re-lubricated it with no problems since.

 

[Mathwiz]

After reading this post, today I took my switch apart and everything looked ok. So to prevent problems in the future I cleaned all the old grease off with a q-tip, stretched the little shunt spring a little more, sanded the four oval contacts and the two shunt contacts lightly with some 320 grit sandpaper, and regreased everything with some dielectric grease. Put it all back together and now I hope I won't have any problems in the future.

Thanks for the heads up guys.

 

[Donut]

Thank you! Mathwiz that is exactly what grndune should do.
Click on pic to enlarge.


Doug

 

[ItsCruz]

Thanks for the post. I am doing a break down clean this weekend for other reasons and I'll add this to my list.........Love ya', mean it!

 

[grndune]

Donut, just like BillM said in this thread http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php?t=57474
The slider in my switch was melted to the point where the contacts were fused and would not come out. The slider itself was warped and wouldn't move freely in the housing. There is no fixing it. If I had known about this issue before hand, disassembling and cleaning would have been an option, and I recommend others check it out as a preventative maintenance.
Donut, your input was invaluable in helping me figure out the problem, but it is funny that you are trying to tell me its not warped when I'm holding the piece in my hand hand and telling you that it is warped beyond repair. Trust me, I would love to save the money, but it needs replacement.

 

[Donut]

Sorry for the confusion between burnt and warped. That switch was poorly engendered and if there is a week contact in there then it will get hot and melt burn and warp. And there is only probably only two reasons for that to happen - running to much current threw it (from extra lights) or the shunt not getting a good contact and getting hot because of the poor contact and causing heat.

 

[grndune]

No Worries Mate!

It's ok Donut, I knew it had to be a slight miscommunication. :icon_eek:

Your information has been very helpfull. I think it was dirty and then corroded and caused a short that melted it down. I am actually going to try and fabricate a peice from an old spatula hande, I think it should work since it is a high heat plastic. I'll let y'all know how it works.

Determined to save money!

 

[Donut]

It's ok Donut, I knew it had to be a slight miscommunication. :icon_eek:

Your information has been very helpfull. I think it was dirty and then corroded and caused a short that melted it down. I am actually going to try and fabricate a peice from an old spatula hande, I think it should work since it is a high heat plastic. I'll let y'all know how it works.

Determined to save money!

Now that sounds interesting - when you do take a few pic.
I have been trying to find a one way momentary switch that could be use to replace the one in there easily.

Doug

 

[grndune]

Wow, it's been a minute since I've had any problems with the bike and haven't needed to log in since this fix. Sorry I don't have any pics, but I was able to shape a new piece of plastic with a dremel tool out of that spatula handle. It still works today!
Anyway, I've developed a new problem and want to give you guys first crack at it. My grip on the throttle side snapped the other day and now it has lots of play in the twist. It still feels firm twisting the gas on, but has about an inch of free play letting the gas off. That is to say once I let go of the grip it returns idle on its own but can keep going about an inch past that.
Is it just the grip or do need to worry about the cable?

 

[Philscbx]

Once the grip is removed - you will see more than likely one of the cable ends - held by plastic - that portion must have broken off.
There seems to be too much drama happening to this part of the bars.

Get out the contact cleaner - it's the solvent the glue is made from - slide skinny screw driver in between grip and throttle slide -
Shove the nozzle of contact cleaner up along side of driver - work the driver around the grip - re hit with solvent - pull grip off.

The contact cleaner dries fast - no residue left on bars or in the grip.
You can use other stuff - then pay the hassle of re-gluing not working because oil film-left behind.
Then it goes down hill from there.