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Hello riders, Rode around today, made a few stops, last one to top gas tank before going home. Pushed start button and nothing. Like a dead battery. Checked kick stand, put up and down, put in neutral, pushed start button, kinda sorta wanted to start. Did it one more time, this time "holding" button in, never did that before. It started up. At home, tried again, same . Its been on the battery charger for a couple of hours now. Tried again, similar, have to hold button and it stutters then starts. Seems more electrical than engine. Looking for suggestions. Thanks for your help. Steve Sorry, bike is 04 1300C, runs very good, strong.
 

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This sounds very much like the often encountered dirty/corroded starter button "guts". Search the Cafe for more on this issue. To fix it, you take apart the switch and clean the "guts". If you do this, be VERY careful as there are a spring and a tiny ball bearing that like to fly off into the darkest corner of your garage never to be seen again. Some take it apart inside a ziploc bag.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This sounds very much like the often encountered dirty/corroded starter button "guts". Search the Cafe for more on this issue. To fix it, you take apart the switch and clean the "guts". If you do this, be VERY careful as there are a spring and a tiny ball bearing that like to fly off into the darkest corner of your garage never to be seen again. Some take it apart inside a ziploc bag.
Well bless this little Howdy Doody. Looked up a video on how to clean the switch. Took it all apart this morning and cleaned it with Tuner Cleaner, used a small brass brush to clean the contacts, lubed the moving parts with Dielectric grease. And Voila, she starts just like brand spanking new. I did use the ziploc bag, but it was so dirty, nothing would fall out. But I can see that your right, you would never find the ball or the spring. Thanks for all your help. Love this site. Happy riding !
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Glad you got it fixed! That is one of those little maintenance things that you have to do every couple of years (depending on how much time your bike sits outside and how often you ride it).
Glad you got it fixed! That is one of those little maintenance things that you have to do every couple of years (depending on how much time your bike sits outside and how often you ride it).
I keep my bike in the garage but I do live and ride in the desert, Las Vegas, NV. A lot of dust in the air all the time. Now, are you ready for this, starts up nice and quick, twist the throttle a few times, good to go. Being the paranoid one, I go out to the bike later, start it up, twist throttle and it wont "go back". I have to twist it back to idle. And it now feels tight. I opened the clam shell again, checked that both throttle cables are connected and no binding. I can't figure this out. I did nothing to the cables and they were working just fine before. Any ideas ? Frustrated in the desert. Steve
 

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This usually occurs because the outboard end of the throttle sleeve is tight up against the end of the bars. Loosen the switchbox housing and slide if VERY slightly to the right (outboard) and see if this helps.

If this does not cure the problem, look at the routing of the throttle/idle cables. Did these get changed? Do they form any tight loops when the bars are at full right lock? Try a little graphite lubricant between the bar and the throttle sleeve. Do NOT put any lubricant into the throttle or idle cables between the sleeve and the cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This usually occurs because the outboard end of the throttle sleeve is tight up against the end of the bars. Loosen the switchbox housing and slide if VERY slightly to the right (outboard) and see if this helps.

If this does not cure the problem, look at the routing of the throttle/idle cables. Did these get changed? Do they form any tight loops when the bars are at full right lock? Try a little graphite lubricant between the bar and the throttle sleeve. Do NOT put any lubricant into the throttle or idle cables between the sleeve and the cable.
I have loosened the switchbox, found the nipple and indent on the handlebar to position the switch.If it's not in that position the two pieces will not tighten properly. The day before , I put new grip glue on both grips. I'm thinking I may have got some on the outboard end of grip. I'll check in the morning. I will also try the graphite. Let you know. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also check that the return spring down at the carb has not come loose or broken! It would be an incredible co-inky dink for that to happen but if you can't find any other cause check this one last!
Is the return spring "on the throttle drum" ? Looking at my partzilla blow up picture, I don't see it. On it sherlock.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have loosened the switchbox, found the nipple and indent on the handlebar to position the switch.If it's not in that position the two pieces will not tighten properly. The day before , I put new grip glue on both grips. I'm thinking I may have got some on the outboard end of grip. I'll check in the morning. I will also try the graphite. Let you know. Thanks
Mystery solved: When I glued my hand grip, some of the glue squished out the end onto the bar. Just enough to make it stick. Took the end cap off and using needle nose pliers and a tweezer I picked out the excess. Now works like a charm. It's the little things in life that make it so interesting. Thanks all for you ideas. Happy riding.
 
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